Smokeyyank

I used a durango box and WJ pump on my XJ. Worked great. It's kind of a bolt in but you need to make sure you reinforce the steering area. It ripped my unibody apart on my XJ. Made turning effort A LOT easier though. I went through Rockauto and picked up mine from Lares. Easy upgrade well worth it IMHO.

I just ended up getting a new bottle and cap from rockauto it was $30. Next spring I'll probably just convert it and upgrade as much as I can.

I'd go with a 8.25. 8.8 is a great swap (ran it on my XJ) and will get you 31 spline shafts and a factory LSD downside is they are bigger. 8.25 is a great axle. Dana 35 is as useful as a boat anchor. 8.25 can be had for cheap. I picked up my builder 8.25 with a KJ disc swap for $100. Depending where you are will dictate a lot of the cost. In CO everything is gold plated so it pulls a premium unless you are hunting for good deals. I'd probably say about $100-$300 for a used axle and parts to get it under a MJ.

Cool good to know. Maybe I just start with a bottle and cap for now and hopefully that gets me through till spring and I can do a full swap.

Well as of this morning the pressure bottle cracked along a seam in front. Spewed fluid all over. So should I just get another pressure bottle or upgrade to a open system? I'd prefer to go open but an easy fix would be a softer hit on the wallet right now.

My fault not overflow, pressure bottle. Ideally I want to swap to an open system. Pressure bottle is filled less than half currently.

Thanks for the info. I'll update a sig. My guess has been rad is going. Its a 88. Don't know when the radiator was replaced I can ask YELLAHEEP as he's who I got the MJ from. Not sure if he would know but I'll ask.

So over the past 2 weeks the MJ has been creeping up past 220 and there is rad fluid that is leaking close to the overflow. It does it once and then goes back to normal after I turn on the heat for a bit. I have no idea the last time any of the cooling system was serviced. Is it time to upgrade the cooling system or it it simply a bubble? I know the closed systems are tricky.

I run Grabber AT's and really like them. Had KO's on my XJ and loved them too. Grabbers I got for less than $350 brand new so the big reason I went with them. Check discounttire's ebay store. Sometimes they run promos for $100 off.

Rockauto for pretty much everything stock wise. Upgrade wise it just depends on what. It's not a JK so can't really just stroll through Quadratrec and get the JK starter package. Anything in specific you're looking for?

WJ swap is going to get you the best overall upgrade up front but it's $$$. It gives you waaayyyy better brakes and steering geometry. If that's not an option I'd just go straight V8 ZJ tie rod and stock parts for the rest. I personally wouldn't drop the coin on a OTK or other "upgrade" steering system. If you want to upgrade the box the durango box and WJ pump are nice. Ran it in my XJ world of difference over stock. For gears I'd go at least 3.55 or 3.73. Honestly your best bet would be finding 95-99 preferably 97-99 XJ axles from an auto, freshen them up and swap those in. Will have the deeper gears, bigger u joints up front, no CAD and a 8.25 for the rear. If you're not running SOA in the rear you will just need to weld perches under.

Ironman4x4 makes a fullbelly link setup for XJ they did have a SEMA MJ that used a lot of the same parts. https://www.ironman4x4fab.com/product-page/xj-front-rear-4-link-system Other is stinkyfab http://www.stinkyfab.com/trail-proof-crossmember-t-case-skid-jeep-xj-mj/

Yeah mine it has to go around. That channel in the seal is about 1/2" of window going in it. I get what you're saying about not having to but there just is no way I can unless I cut the seal to allow it to "slide" in vs wrapping around. Since it will be needing a new windshield I'll probably just see if I can get the glass guy to hammer it out. Thanks for the info though.

Also not sure if it matters. But the seal I'm using was from the slider window. Not sure if it would be a different size than the regular window.

Alright, so here is what I'm working with. The seal has to go around the window. I even tried putting the window in and getting the seal in. I trully have no idea how it would work. I can't get enough leverage between the window and the seal to set it correctly.

I see it as the trim goes around the window. The window actually sits inside of it. So I don't know how I would get a good seal between the 2 when there just isn't a lot of room to work with. I can take a pic tomorrow. Guessing it is more than likely user error....

Soooo, no dice on this working. Pretty sure I'm missing something. First go around I put the ribbon on the channel and pressed the glass on WITH the gasket as I have no idea how it would work otherwise. Since the glass sits inside the gasket I just don't see how you could put it on after. It held for a while but I guess it did not seat correctly as the gasket is what the ribbon stuck to and not the window. So then I removed everything cleaned it up and this time put the ribbon on the window still WITH gasket attached. I sealed on one side but not the other and came off. Now i'm cruising around without the back and honestly I like it with the exception of rain in the future. So what am I missing? Do I need thicker ribbon? I think I used 1/4. I'm worried about getting a tube of adhesive and making a mess and causing more headache.

I'd use a polyurethane spray in a flat /satin finish. Couple of light coats and it should "seal" it up a bit without taking away from the patina look.

I'd forgo any tubing through the cab. It will get way too hot. You should have enough room to run the IC piping back through the other side. I'd mount the IC in the front under the rad. You could also use a water cooled IC to save space but will need to beef up the cooling system. A plus with the remote mount turbos is since there is more tubing it will help cool the charged air limiting the need for a big ol honking IC.

Honestly, at $2,500 you could get a turbo on there. It's been done. I've looked into getting a turbo in the 4.0 simply because FI at elevation is a thing of beauty. Yes, no replacement for displacement unless you're at 10k feet, FI kicks its @$$ especially a turbo. Superchargers are meh IMHO. One thing I have not saw mentioned was doing a remote mount turbo. Definitely an option if you're not banging around on rocks. Downside is losing some umph on the exhaust side, but trade off is being able to free up engine space, reduce under hood temps and getting away with a smaller intercooler. Turbo wise 16G or 20G turbo can do a lot, they are cheap and easy to modify. Megasquirt to piggy back for the EFI. You'll need to fab a manifold. Boom done.

Gotcha, thanks for the info.

Out of curiosity does it affect your driveline angles a lot? I was thinking about one throwing one in the xj but worried that it would jack up the angles and cause me to stretch the wheel base to compensate. Not to having a longer wb would be bad just more work down the road.

Don't think I'm going to be able to make it tonight feelas.

After working on my old K5 that someone glassed instead of using sheetmetal I'd go metal. What a frickin mess. Glass might be easier but IMHO it's a shortcut that doesn't do it right. Cut out the bad stuff. Use cardboard to make a mock up panel. Make a patch panel out of 16-20 gauge. Spot weld it in. Put seam filler. POR15/primer to seal everything up.

It was always fun having friends from out of town get them not fully knowing what they where and seeing the shock or nonchalant shrug after eating them.