Smokeyyank

Alright, so here is what I'm working with. The seal has to go around the window. I even tried putting the window in and getting the seal in. I trully have no idea how it would work. I can't get enough leverage between the window and the seal to set it correctly.

I see it as the trim goes around the window. The window actually sits inside of it. So I don't know how I would get a good seal between the 2 when there just isn't a lot of room to work with. I can take a pic tomorrow. Guessing it is more than likely user error....

Soooo, no dice on this working. Pretty sure I'm missing something. First go around I put the ribbon on the channel and pressed the glass on WITH the gasket as I have no idea how it would work otherwise. Since the glass sits inside the gasket I just don't see how you could put it on after. It held for a while but I guess it did not seat correctly as the gasket is what the ribbon stuck to and not the window. So then I removed everything cleaned it up and this time put the ribbon on the window still WITH gasket attached. I sealed on one side but not the other and came off. Now i'm cruising around without the back and honestly I like it with the exception of rain in the future. So what am I missing? Do I need thicker ribbon? I think I used 1/4. I'm worried about getting a tube of adhesive and making a mess and causing more headache.

I'd use a polyurethane spray in a flat /satin finish. Couple of light coats and it should "seal" it up a bit without taking away from the patina look.

I'd forgo any tubing through the cab. It will get way too hot. You should have enough room to run the IC piping back through the other side. I'd mount the IC in the front under the rad. You could also use a water cooled IC to save space but will need to beef up the cooling system. A plus with the remote mount turbos is since there is more tubing it will help cool the charged air limiting the need for a big ol honking IC.

Honestly, at $2,500 you could get a turbo on there. It's been done. I've looked into getting a turbo in the 4.0 simply because FI at elevation is a thing of beauty. Yes, no replacement for displacement unless you're at 10k feet, FI kicks its @$$ especially a turbo. Superchargers are meh IMHO. One thing I have not saw mentioned was doing a remote mount turbo. Definitely an option if you're not banging around on rocks. Downside is losing some umph on the exhaust side, but trade off is being able to free up engine space, reduce under hood temps and getting away with a smaller intercooler. Turbo wise 16G or 20G turbo can do a lot, they are cheap and easy to modify. Megasquirt to piggy back for the EFI. You'll need to fab a manifold. Boom done.

Gotcha, thanks for the info.

Out of curiosity does it affect your driveline angles a lot? I was thinking about one throwing one in the xj but worried that it would jack up the angles and cause me to stretch the wheel base to compensate. Not to having a longer wb would be bad just more work down the road.

Don't think I'm going to be able to make it tonight feelas.

After working on my old K5 that someone glassed instead of using sheetmetal I'd go metal. What a frickin mess. Glass might be easier but IMHO it's a shortcut that doesn't do it right. Cut out the bad stuff. Use cardboard to make a mock up panel. Make a patch panel out of 16-20 gauge. Spot weld it in. Put seam filler. POR15/primer to seal everything up.

It was always fun having friends from out of town get them not fully knowing what they where and seeing the shock or nonchalant shrug after eating them.

This

Some rocky mountain oysters?! I'll look on the FB page and see what could use some help. Need to see if the wife will give me a pass first. Most of this week I'm tied up with football stuff and sometimes she likes me to come home.

I'll see if I can roll on down.

Looks like an awesome trip right there! I know some CO NAXJA guys are running the rimrocker towards the end of July. I really need to get a legit Jeep to wheel again.....

http://www.boostwerksengineering.com/231-HD-Shift-Linkage-Auto-Trans-V20_p_25.html

WJ conversion at least for the MJ when I get there will be about 1.5-2k. I'm going with the Stinkyfab kit and will source some of my own parts. There is modification to the sway bar mounts and track bar that need to be done. In no way is it just a bolt up kit. I know some people will just swap knuckles but it's not taking full advantage of the set up. There complete kit is almost $1900, but that is EVERYTHING and new http://www.stinkyfab.com/sfr-high-roller-wj-steering-brake-kit-xj-mj/ Basic kit is less, but you need to source your own parts http://www.stinkyfab.com/sfr-basic-wj-high-steer-big-brake-kit-xj/ Obviously I know there are ways to do it cheaper, but I think they have the most complete kit and make awesome parts.

Did more digging because I want to know. Basically the only option is a WJ swap but it takes some creativity to get everything matched up. Big fan of the WJ swap but $$$

Hobofrieght all the way! Other than my dad sliding down hill in ice and knocking the XJ off the stands they held up just fine. I also got the big mamba jambas

Only issue with the WJ swap is leafs........I don't think the drag link will properly clear the leafs for SOA.

Don't go RC, much better lifts for the money. Zone makes a decent lift. IRO has always made decent stuff. OME is a great lift but more expensive. Really, there are lots of options and will just depend on what you want to do. If you want height and ride comfort OME is the best route. If you're planning to wheel it hard then it's going to be best to build your lift and possibly consider long arms. Personally, I'd start accumulating parts and do it right once then ten times half assed. The 4wd conversion is a good amount of work and to put parts on now you'll just be pulling them off later. You're going to need new axles and not D35s, things are only good for boat anchors. Best bet will be to source 97-99 XJ axles. You'll get a HP30 front with bigger u joints, non cad and high pinon, rear will be a 8.25 with 29 spline. More than enough axle to run 33's. If you plan on going 35's you should consider something else. While you can get away with a D30 and 8.25, might as well build a proper axle and not worry about breakage with 35's. If you're looking for just a budget lift temporarily here's what I'd do Front -ZJ upcountry coils net about 1-1.5" lift -Coil spacer get about .75" -Could also consider ACOS, I just put them on the level out my front but the great thing is they can be used to fine tune your set up once you have a proper lift. Rear -AAL That should get you enough to run a 30ish tire even though I say stick with a 29" max. Then you're also going to look at all the other parts to go with bigger tires; steering, braking, etc.

Its a 4 banger...so yeah not going to be a torque monster. Did the issue just start? What about time size or anything else that might be an issue.

There is this kit, but personally I think RR makes junk http://www.rocky-road.com/yj-high-steer.html Also this kit https://www.mountainoffroad.com/steering-correction-kit-87-95-yj.html You can also look at reid knuckles but for the cost axle swap might be the best option.

Basically everything. Then depending on the rear you might have to consider a SYE or tcase drop. With more lift comes more $. If you are worried about the front sagging with weight and are compensating with taller coils you can get ACOS to dial it in. I used it on mine to level out the front Before After

The advantage of going with a 96+ is OBDII. Prior to that you had OBDI, nothing else. It's a debate on whether OBDI is an upgrade over Renix. Personally, I think it is not, but that's just me. If I was to do the swap to a HO I'd find a 99. Last year of distributor and has the better intake manifold.