ghetdjc320

Those are great mats. The husky’s are a copy of those.

If water is getting down to the bulkhead area, it’s only a matter of time before it makes its way in through another seam or hole into the cab if it can’t get through the bulkhead connector. Water just shouldn’t generally be there. I know there are times when a few drops can get in there which is why I add a small drain hole from that area to the wheel well.

The best liners I’ve come across for the MJ are the husky XJ versions. They lay flat and are quality. Reminds me a lot of oem Jeep slush mats. Iirc there is a tab that will be trimmed off for a perfect fit.

Have you tried to determine why the water is getting to the bulkhead connector in the first place? Is the hood to cowl seal good? Is the seam sealer on the sides still good? Is the cowl leaking down the firewall?

Seems like I recall aftermarket bars being under $500 new

Same here. Single stage patina is quite different. Every time I hear “patina” though I automatically think “cheap”

Fortunately, the 91-96 XJ full clusters seem to be much easier to find than the renix era full clusters

The unibody frame area under the cab of the MJ is a bit tricky. The bed frame comes all the way up to that cab cross brace area and is essentially pressed into the unibody frame work. If your frame is otherwise straight, I’d rig up some 2x2 square tubing or even 1x1 and tack them onto the existing frame rails almost like crossmembers or a jig, then get the blaster/grinder/plasma torch out and see what it takes to get to clean metal. I can understand the priority is to get it running and driving but unfortunately there may be no great fix for the frame work that would allow for a cheap solution to get it driving. I’d start with the cheap stuff though just incase you decide that it’s just not salvageable (or just not something you want to take on). If you have decent fab skills though along with time and money, you can make it work. If this was my project and I was committed to restoring the frame, I’d brace it, media blast it (or use whatever means necessary to get to clean metal), cut out the damaged areas, weld in new metal, then add a full set of frame bracing. Lots of work though

Reference a Moog K160039

Good to know. I’d live to find a compatible connector block for the back side of those switch panels. Those are also hard to find but they have to be an off the shelf part from some other manufacturer

The startup RPM is normally coolant temp dependent. It’s normal to have an idle up at startup for a few seconds. The vacuum leak would definitely idle it up though across the board.

been away on work but return in 2 weeks. I’ll be hitting the ground running to get this project finished before winter. Attached some recent pics to hold you over until then

NTK is what I run for any sensors if it’s available. A nos sensor is nice if available and in good shape.

Nice! I had very similar issues. Someone should start a repair service. Would be a nice hobby with a bit of income . Just can’t find any good replacement units anymore.

If you want the be all end all dampener made in the USA here you go: https://www.newcomerracing.com/store/p23/Jeep_AMC_4.0_4.2_Stroker_(87-06)_Direct_Replacement_ATI_SFI_Approved_Harmonic_Six_Rib_Serpentine_Balancer_Kit.html

I’ve seen the “cure” used at the knuckles as well

Good to know. I’ll keep an eye out for them

That track bar kit relocates the frame side track bar mounting point. Having it out of alignment with the drag link will cause your bump steer which quickly leads to “death wobble”. You also mentioned the bolt was undersized, if it is, that is a serious problem. Or it is also very likely that the axle side bracket holes are wallowed out. IMO Rough country is a corner cutting enterprise. With affordability as their underlying goal, things such as “safety” and “engineering” take a back seat.

Wouldn’t this work? https://www.quadratec.com/products/55014_8029.htm Edit: or this? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1997,cherokee,4.0l+l6,1180370,electrical-switch+&+relay,power+window+switch,4624

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R1768.html They have a few varieties last I checked

I would think the opening could probably clear a 35 with a 2” lift but you’d need to adjust the bump stops.

It does seem more practical, just not the best look imo. It’s the small size of the MJ cab that makes a long bed look a bit off to me. Resale value may be lower as well depending on the buyer.

That stuff works well. Used it on 3 projects now. I went over that with a good cavity wax and never saw any more rust in the frame.

T&M fab also makes a striker reinforcement plate. Just installed the pair on my build.

There are a few aftermarket gauge options. I’m planning to go quite custom on my build but the options I also came across was the intelliteonix create-a-dash and the autometer invision universal kit.