ghetdjc320

Agreed the low pinion Dana 44 in tjr’s weren’t super stout and were probably on par with HP d30’s. If the TJ got the 8.25 and HP 30 that would have been a nice combo. The JK d44 however, was nothing new. They had that same gearset and housings ends a available about 10 years earlier at least. They just weren’t in Jeeps. As for the m220, they are also in Chevy pickups.

Ok, it’s different. At least it’s still called a Dana 35 😆. A lot of these “new” axles are previous model axles though. Think about all the different iterations of the Dana 35’s. Exploder ifs front axles, and some 07 JK’s also got a rear 35 which may be more similar to the current gen JL 35’s. When the jk’s came out everyone was talking about the all new Dana axles and the HD 44. Turns out that axle was in existence in various forms at least a decade before. I haven’t looked into the new 35’s very much but it will be interesting to see what becomes of them

That’s a ridiculous price! New ones can be had for quite a bit less

Just came across a NOS tube and fin evaporator with that impossible to find foam insulator: https://teamcherokee.com/a-c-evaporator-core-assembly-heavy-duty-oem-cherokee-1991-1996/ i retrofit a plate and fin condenser in mine and it is phenomenal but obviously not original.

That’s awesome! Didn’t even know the existed

I know there is decent interest in a stand-alone 4.0 harness. I made one myself but it’s been brought up many times before on other forums

Figures... well I guess I’m doing the same thing

Selling? 😎

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-92-Jeep-Comanche-Chrome-Rear-Bumper/373071336307?hash=item56dcc8d373:g:NmIAAOSwjuxewawL

The shackles have a small divot on one side from factory that acts like a crimp to hold in the shell of the bushing. Once you get past that divot point they come out fairly easy

Here is the leftover carnage. Keep in mind, I’m doing this out on the ground on a hot tropical island in the middle of nowhere lol. No compressor, no press.

I bought a bushing kit several months ago for the rear leaf springs and it came with new upper shackle bushings. I was able to remove the leaf spring bushings by drilling several holes in the rubber and collapsing the outer shell of the bushing with a punch. Then you just pound it through to the other side. When I first removed the leaf springs, all the bolts had rust-fused to the inner bushing sleeve so they all had to be cut out. In the absence of a press and this being our only vehicle currently, I decided to crawl out under the truck and fix those shackle bushings which were very shot. After cutting out the bolt, I tried removing the outer bushing shell the same way as the springs but it would absolutely not budge. Very long story short, get yourself a stout chisel and chisel along the inside of the shell where the shackle is welded together (Don’t chisel into the shackle bore, just the bushing shell). Once you have that all broken free it will eventually pound out. A solid 1 1/8 socket fits the inner shell well and let’s you pound it out. Just be advised that this process take hours of beefing and pounding. But it can be done. A hack saw will do little good here since the shell is thick and most likely fused to the shackle bore.

About 3 days of deep searching will yield a single nos tail light. Or at least, that’s been my experience. You got to search out of the box and sometimes out of the country. Google doesn’t normally help you find obscure postings. Every once in a while you can get a nos one on eBay. You just need to know all of your part numbers that amc and Chrysler used.

Grab a liberty 8.25 as @Pete M suggests. Especially if you only planning to run 33’s. That being said, I run 33’s on my d35 with revolution shafts, Detroit truetrac and TNT truss. Love the clearance and performance but I also know where the d35 weak points are. There was a custom rig I saw in an article featured a few years back running a built d35 and 37’s and he’d been running it for years. He had phenomenal clearance. The whole build was a super lightweight lcg concept rig. After having built and swapped several axles (d44’s, 8.8’s & 9”), I started to think that maybe he was onto something. The weakness of the d35 ultimately will come down to the ring and pinion. There is an aftermarket solution to pretty much every other shortfall of that axle. Chryo treating a good new revolution, motive or Richmond gear set increases the strength quite a bit. 30 spline chromo shafts are pretty stout. A good girdle cover will help relieve stress from the bearing caps. A nice truss will greatly reduce flex which tends to be the root cause of many failures.

Just to clarify, I wasn’t suggesting that anyone swap in a d35. It was just a side point that they are still producing them.

He posted in our classifieds section a little while ago

That’s a good guess. I’ll check that out in the morning (it’s dark here now and I don’t have a shop to work on it at night. Plus I’ve seen the huge centipedes that can land you in the hospital crawling around at night 😆). Headlight switch still works fine and from what I can tell, everything else does also. Haven’t had the parking brake light connected for a good while though.

Is it an aw4?

And make sure to use the tiniest possible amount of jb weld so you don’t create a high spot somewhere that will give you problems down the road.

I’d still recommend a small dab of jb weld on that piece just to keep it in place. Take your time, clean up all oil in that spot, let the jb weld fully cure and install your seal per fsm. Should be good to go. As others have pointed out, it’s not on the “wet” side of the seal.

This may sound crazy but if you are good with a blow torch you can get them looking like new. You can also quickly ruin them this way so be careful. An actual heat gun works better. You just need to lightly and evenly heat the plastic. Make sure to remove your handle from the door first. Once the plastic looks like new again, hit it with some black plastic restore and it will Jeep it looking great for a long time. Lasts for quite a while and won’t peel or flake like paint

Hello all, before I dig under the dash to find what this is or where it goes, I’m sure one of you has seen this and know exactly where it goes 😆. I was driving along and this piece fell out from under the drivers side dash somewhere between the parking brake and the regular brake pedal. Looks like an electrical contact for a switch of some sort.

Whatever the number is, ultimately it’s not many and there are fewer each year. I doubt a company would build new molds for it but maybe if they have the original molds??

Thin axle tubes, faulty plug welds (sometimes no plug welds) so the tubes spin, has a Dana 35 shape but is much fatter and gets hung up on rocks/mud, relatively tiny brakes, adds a lot of unsprung weight, it’s narrower which is really pronounced on an mj, ring and pinion are still not up to par with newer d44 components, cost in most places has skyrocketed, doesn’t have a dropout center section or preload adjusters which would help with gear swaps. Stock axle bearings aren’t that great either. If these axles could handle 37’s and 40’s in stock form I think they would be a good option. However, most people only throw on 33’s or 35’s which just isn’t enough to compensate for the cons in my mind. In stock form, they can’t handle 37’s. C clips are not really that big of a problem unless your snapping axle shafts. A super 8.8 handles 37’s but at that point just upgrade.

Interior trim is good to have and a lot is mj specific. Drivers side kick panel, sill trim, b pillar trim, trim piece below back glass, mj specific center console with e brake delete.