ghetdjc320

True. I’ve never had one unload on me though and I ran them on all 4 corners on some pretty serious trails. Being able to let the axle droop more though is really not helpful unless there is weight on the low wheel. That being said though, nothing beats a good 4 link setup.

They work for suspension droop but that’s about it. Plus you’ll need extended shocks to allow for full droop. Alcan has a product called “orbit eyes” that’s like a Johnny joint for your leaf springs that also works for linear spring twisting.

The length of the MJ leaf springs is a pretty good design for flex. I used to run treadles revolver shackles on my YJ and they make them for MJ’s/XJ’s too.

Yep, either Helicoils or size up one bolt size and tap the threads. Both require about the same amount of work

As a general rule of thumb, these brands do not have a stellar reputation with Jeeper’s who actually use their vehicles for off-roading: Rough Country Pro-Comp Tough Country IMHO I would also add: Rugged Ridge The only “budget” lift company that I’ve had good success with is Zone off-road who is affiliated with BDS suspension. The brands that tend to get the most positive reports: Currie Metal Cloak Savvy Iron Rock Off-road Old Man Emu Rubicon express kind of falls in the middle both in terms of price and quality. Also heard good things about Hell Creek springs for MJ’s. Alcan and National of course are up there if you just need leaf springs or coils but they are pricey. There are faults with all brands and probably some positive things too but the above has held true from what I’ve run and seen on the trails. Probably forgetting some other too

That unit bearing looks pretty rough and by the time you do get it separated, that shaft and unit bearing will likely be trashed.

The JCR one has been around a good while and their stuff is really top notch. The DBO bumper is very similar in design and it looks like many aspects were copied from the JCR. I like the license plate area for the DBO one but there is a big difference in the D ring tabs on those two. The JCR ones are much thicker. The JCR also does a great job of protecting the corners. The DBO has those little add on corner armor pieces but the bumper itself doesn’t wrap around the corner. I’ll take some pics of mine in a bit

I run that rear bumper and also the JCR vanguard front bumper. Front bumpers are practically limitless since they are just an XJ bumper and oem styles as well as tons of aftermarket options are available. The JCR bumper fits really nice and I do use mine for towing. I’ve towed about 2500lbs with it no problem. It’s just not “rated” for towing. You won’t find many aftermarket bumpers that are unless they went through the process of certifying them.

I'm sure the Dakota lights are an option but since Key Parts is bringing new oem tail lights to market, an adapter that fits an oem Dakota light may not be as marketable as something that could fit the newer 97+ XJ style given all the aftermarket options and styles. The adapter bracket would likely just be a thin frame that would adapt the mounting points from an MJ and creates an XJ light opening.

No kidding! Key Parts has been working on replacement oem tail lights but I’m not sure what the eta is. I agree with the wrangler lights. Not my cup of tea on an MJ. I do like some of the aftermarket XJ lights though. What about an adapter to fit xj style lights in an MJ? That would open up the possibilities for both an oem-style and aftermarket appearance. I know @Pete M had talked about something like that some time ago.

Here is the link for kicks https://www.etsy.com/shop/saltydawgsauto?listing_id=813067015&ref=related#items The idea is good but the execution is terrible. He just doesn’t get those compound curves. Wonder if @Dzimm would be interested in making something. There is definitely a market for a well made product. Once Key parts finished their tail lights hopefully we can have a nice oem replacement. But the demand for some sort of aftermarket lights will still be there.

By far

Worth a shot:

I’d be very surprised if he had street Comanche body kit parts. But he does have quite a collection!

I’d like to get a puller for that dumb pilot bearing for the front output shaft.

The free money has kept a lot of businesses doing much better than they normally would though. In all fairness, he’s just swamped and doesn’t have any solid help that knows what the products. It’s great that he keeps trying to bring new things to the market but the business is poorly executed.

Last I heard, yes. Had several dealings with Zach there and wouldn’t recommend them though. If someone needs a roller cam, I’d check with Russ Pottenger but I don’t think there will be much gain on a 4.0. Depends on what you want to do with the engine.

It’s not noisy but the felt gets all mangled and or missing which makes it either rattle when it’s open or makes it hard to open. i think I’m just going to try to dig out some of the felt and try to match up the size. Not sure how it’s going to go trying to replace it though and I’m not to keen on pulling the glass again.

When I had my seats reupholstered, I had them rebuild and reinforce the pans. They welded some bracing to keep it from breaking again. Nice little upgrade while your in there

Has anyone successfully replaced the felt for the slider in their rear window? I haven’t even seen any replacement felt in the parts manual but cam across this link that made me wonder if one of these would fit: https://jjautofabrics.com/window-channel-types/

All 4.0’s are flat tappet. 505 performance makes a roller cam and crower used to make one as well. There are slight pattern changes between various years though.

Sounds good, don’t forget to reseal where the antenna cable goes into the cab. It’s a frequent leak area. Give yourself a little “drip loop” so the water doesn’t have a straight shot down the cable and into the cab.

Looks like the factory brackets would limit travel anyway unless you use a tube style control arm. I switched to artec brackets several years ago so I don’t have any originals to compare it to.

But the ends of the WJ arms physically fit in both mounting points correct? Was it off the same amount on both sides or did you only try one side? Did you disconnect the track bar before doubt the control arm swap? How were you jacking up the axle? if your thinking of getting new control arms, Currie/Savvy and metal cloaks are my favorites. Very durable and very smooth both onroad and off.

I’m pretty sure the pins are a Delphi (Aptiv) design as that’s what most of the truck uses. @cruiser54 or @Minuit would probably know the exact pin you need.