ghetdjc320

Sounds great! Are you still running an ax15 with that setup?

As for parts, if you don’t go with the 84-86 setup mentioned above, you’ll need an external slave bell housing, input shaft retainer, clutch fork, pivot ball with retainer clip, throw out bearing (DO NOT GET CHEAP WITH THIS ONE ), and the slave cylinder along with the line. Often times the master/slave are sold as a unit but you can purchase separately. Luk and Centric seem to have been good after market suppliers for clutch components. Go timken, precision, national or SKF for the throw out bearing. Transmission has to be removed. Just take it one bolt at a time and you’ll be done in no time . When bleeding an external slave setup, I’d recommend “reverse bleeding”. There are a few good YouTube videos regarding the process. It would probably be worth it to swap the clutch and pilot bearing as well. Luk rep-set clutch and a bronze pilot bushing normally are good values. External slave cylinders use a different line fitting than the old 7/16 inverted flare master cylinders used but can be adapted.

Here is the worst offender .

I believe the ones that he has for the mirror deleted are a bit different. The originals have a flange all the way around them and a bit different cut. Some original style replacements would be super handy

When I LS swapped, I went with 10awg frame reinforcement from the control arms brackets forward

Nice! Please let me know when you might have those available. Mirror gaskets would be awesome as well.

Antenna blank plugs? Any chance you’ll have these for the 97+ fenders as well? Another nice product would be a simple gasket for the door lock mechanism. YJ’s have them but they don’t fit MJ/XJs

I was able to source some good used ones with my metal handle swap but it would be great if someone could reproduce the door handle gaskets and especially the mirror gaskets. @Dzimm or @boxyjeep

Looking great! One suggestion while you still have things apart, get the seam sealer out of that vertical back cab seam and treat those areas. There is one seam under each lower corner of the back glass. They run from the glass to the floor. The factory’s cheap seam sealer was applied to the inside and sometimes to the outside groove. I’ve deleted that seam and welded it shut on both my MJ’s. They are horrible water trapping spots.

Looking good! That was a lot of down time for some spacers

If you’re going to remove your floor pans, you can access the inside of the channel for repair. The frame “cap” inside the cab is a significant integral part of the structural integrity. So if you incorporate a flange to repair the frame rail, be sure you can get weld penetration from that top cap all the way to your new piece. If the rust isn’t that bad though, you may be able to just get away with some patching, especially in light of the frame plating you intend to do. Just depends on where exactly the problem spots are and how extensive the hidden rust may be.

This thread may help with some answers. MC bore size only needs to change when you need more fluid to drive larger/multiple piston calipers.

Remember “Brock’s oem imports” on eBay? If that guys had this thing he’d list it for 20k . Seems like a good price when you consider to an aftermarket bumper runs close to a grand.

It’s the resistance reading that the fuel level sender sends to the gauge. Renix era jeeps from 90- read about 85-100 ohms when full and 0 when empty. HO era from 91+ read 0 ohms as full and 100 ohms as empty. Basically the opposite sweep between the two sending units.

MTS can send you the correct gauge sweep sending unit. There are only two gauge sender sweeps, 90- & 91+

MTS is a company that makes sending units and related parts. https://www.mtscompany.com/lockrings.htm

Just get it below the sending unit which should be anything less than about 2/3 tank

OMG, the more I watch the worse it gets

This video is the epitome of brake misinformation Not sure where to even begin… First, don’t mount your booster sideways . Second, that is not how you bench bleed . Third, almost everything he says about braking is incorrect. Don’t mean to be harsh but… oh boy… On a serious note, a dual diaphragm booster increases the vacuum assist and helps increase line pressure. All of this is relative to the master cylinder bore to caliper piston sizes. Matching the right size mc bore to the caliper piston area is what really provides good braking power.

A new lock ring and gasket are probably in order. Pretty simple swap, just make sure to keep the area clean so dirt doesn’t get in the tank when you remove the old gasket. MTS carries the parts you need among others. Part numbers GMLR-1 for the locking ring and GMOR-1 for the gasket

That’s a bag full of parts . If your removing your 89 knuckles, post them up for sale. They are compatible with big brake setups and are nice upgrades for the 90+ knuckles. You can get the passenger side bracket for the Wilwood prop valve that fits well.

You’re in a tough spot with this rig without shelling out some coin and fixing some items if you want a driver.

The number of leaves doesn’t set the lift height. It’s the free arch and spring rate that set ride height. The GS springs provide a mild lift around 2” on most applications. When you run them SOA on a on a larger tubed axle, you’ll get plenty of lift. I’d say you’re looking at at around 7”.

Are you going to run those GS springs SOA? I ran the GS 4 leaf pack SOA on a Dana 35 with stock MJ shackles and was sitting at 7” of lift (which never settled) over stock 4wd specs. GS springs have a nice free arch which which provides a mild lift when run SUA, but will require either stock MJ shackles or longer such as JKS or Core. SOA will be sitting pretty tall. Do you have a slip yoke eliminator installed on your transfer case? I don’t see a slip yoke in the driveshaft itself. The reason I mention this is that, when you shorten your wheelbase by moving the hangers back to stock position, your already steep driveshaft angle will get worse. I had some quite terrible driveshaft vibes when first going SOA on the GS springs until installing an SYE. Again I’d suggest considering going back to SUA with the gs springs