ghetdjc320
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Everything posted by ghetdjc320
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As I said, I’m no renix expert. However, generally, with efi, the cps provides for ignition timing only. It’s not used for fueling. So if the OP has a fueling issue then an out of range cts is a possible culprit. This is common with exponential rate cts sensor sweeps. If the cps fails when heat soaked then wouldn’t lightly spraying some water on the sensor get it going again? Same goes for the cts. Either way, we’re assuming that heat is the issue so accelerating the cooling of sensors may provide a quick diagnosis.
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It is on many vehicles
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Bosch icons with 97+ wiper arms here
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The question everyone will ask as it is really the determining factor here is: what size tires are you going to run?
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the trick is the lift in the rear. You will need 4.5” lift rear springs. Very few places make such a thing. Hells Creek or custom are some of the few options. 3.5-5” is a tough range to shoot for. Taller or lower can be obtained with off the shelf components. Flipping the stock springs over the rear axle gains about 5.5” and some of the stock replacement springs gain between 2-3”. The front is pretty much just an XJ lift.
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It’s likely the wiper ground that needs to be cleaned up/replaced. Had the same issue on my 91.
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Your problem sounds much more like a coolant temp sensor to me. It leans out the mixture when the engine warms up. If it’s failing, it can lean it to the point of no start. I’ll mention again that I’m no renix expert so I may be off on this. But coolant temp is a factor for enrichment on every efi system I’ve worked on.
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Yeah, they try to oversimplify the process. Ultimately it doesn’t matter if the cam is 180* off from where it was originally compared to the crank (assuming there are two holes on the sprocket 180 out). The only thing your have to readjust is the dizzy to get it on the comp stroke
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Many of us have done an ax15 swap. Perhaps post up a new thread to get more views and relevant help to the new issue. I’m sure many will chime in.
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Depends what you use and what you want to accomplish but I covered about 50% of the roof with good results.
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51081 - Black 51082 - Grey 51083 - Beige/Tan
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I’ll throw in my vote again for a bad cam sensor in the dizzy. I may be way off since I’m by no means a renix guru. But most efi systems pulse the injectors based on the cam signal. It may be though as @scaleless mentioned that it can batch fire to at least get it running without a solid cam signal. But for many engines (especially those using only Alpha n), a bad cam signal will cause a no start
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Just a couple of thoughts: either FPR regulator is bad or your fuel pump cannot maintain enough pressure to open the regulator. Or, the fuel lines are reversed - added -
Just as a side note also, mine are not beige at all. They do come in black, grey and beige though. The grey ones I have are a nice match with the acc grey carpet
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I’ve shot some on bare steel with good results. I’ve never used rattle can 2k, just traditional 2 part clear with hardener. I wonder how an epoxy clear would turn out. Those epoxy coatings are supposed to be super tough with excellent adhesion without any primers.
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X2
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So they’re 180* out it looks like. In that case it makes no difference. Just get the marks lined up. The crank rotation vs the cam gear is 2:1. You just have to re index your dizzy so it’s not 180 out
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Does the sprocket have an advance option, or are the cam sprocket dowel holes 180* out? If that’s the case, it wouldn’t matter since you’ll have to ensure your timing is set again to tdc on the compression stroke. Removing the valve cover is an easy way to verify it. You can watch the rocker arms closing. Just get the two marks aligned on the sprockets for now.
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Here is what needs to be aligned for cam timing
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Sounds like your 180* out. There was no need to pull the distributor or look at the crank dampener. Your looking for the marks on the crank and cam sprockets to lineup. That sets your cam timing. Ignition timing can be reset afterwards.
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So, safe to say injectors aren’t firing. Doesn’t the injector firing rely on the cam signal in the dizzy or is renix different.
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I’ve ordered a couple of Mopar thermostat recently. The first was a Mopar with the little vent in the theromostat to purge air from the system. The other was in a Mopar package with part number but was a plain Stat thermostat.
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Have you checked your fuel pressure? If so, what are you getting at the fuel rail?
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@Dzimm is making replacement faces for the switches and the bulb is replaceable. It takes a pretty small bulb though. I think it’s a “37” bulb. As far as I know, (and I checked quite thoroughly), all NOS switches are gone for now. The final ones went to the custom switch panel projects. I do have a really nice alternative switch coming soon but it’s not oem.
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Have you tried doing a good coolant flush?