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Just picked up this MJ from Oklahoma. It will be sitting in storage for probably the next 2-3 years before I do anything significant with it. 1990, Jeep, Comanche 4.0 / AX15 / NP231 / Dana 30 / Dana 35 / SWB Build date: 06/1990 NW Arkansas Status: Solid driver almost zero rust. Future reto project Notes: Eliminator package, Colorado Red, Grey interior, Bucket seats, full length console, full cluster, AC. Current owner: I believe I’m the 3rd owner but will have to verify

That looks like a short bed. 4.0 also but likely a BA10 tranny

It uses 4 clamps. You can position the clamps in different places to avoid obstacles. I had to move mine for my hylift jack

Neither for now. It will be staying in Arkansas for the time being. When I go back to visit I’ll work on a game plan.

More pics Pretty minimal surface rust Typical rocker rust the rear bumper that’s included Full dash with 90k original miles Still awaiting the VIN

Some pre purchase pics:

Well, eventually, I’m thinking either a fully optioned out oem build similar to @Red Mistress or going with the Cummins 2.8 crate engine and 37’s. I’m kind of done building 4.0 based performance engines.

Picking up a 1990 MJ in the morning and just wanted to document the process of the next few years. It’s going to be a long time before I get around to working on it but looking forward to it eventually. Specs I know so far: 1990 Eliminator Short Bed 4.0 4X4 AX15 Bucket seats Full console Slider rear window Original Fog lights No floor pan rust and only a couple of small rust spots on the passenger side rocker and rear fender. Original rear bumper! Lol, I won’t throw this one away Once I grab the VIN I’ll get it registered. This will be a virtual build for quite a while.

Should be picking this one up in the morning! Thanks for the tip

That would be a non c-clip dana 35 if it’s the original axle. You’ll need parts from a 1989 or earlier axle then. The non c clip style axle can use 4340 chromo steel shafts that even the 8.8 can’t use because of the c clip design. A set of 30 spline 4340 axle shaft, 30 spline arb (installed correctly) and a tnt truss with a Spicer HD cover and you’ve got one stout little axle. Chryo treat you R&P and you’ve got an axle that can handle 35’s all day long with more clearance than the 8.8 can dream of. Just a thought

Sounds good, thanks

Looking for the cross cab harness from the driver to passenger door for power locks and windows for a 91-92 xj or mj. 2dr or 4dr xj would be fine. This harness should be separate from the rest of the harness from what I’ve been told.

Coil? Cap, rotor plug wires? Just brainstorming here. It’s always the simple stuff it seems

Bilstein 5125’s come on 3 valving options typically. The one you’ll have to pick will be based on the weight you plan to carry in the bed as well as how much extra weight your adding up front (bumpers, winch etc). I think I went with 255/70 up front. The valving numbers represent the compression and rebound. To those that really know their shock valving (definitely not me) you select yo ur valving based on speed, load and road. This is why there are so many varieties of shocks. Bilstein 5125 keeps is fairly simple. You can grow from there

Even 6-8” of suspension travel is plenty if you learn how to pick your lines. Did you get your drivers license yet?

You’ll have to search the catalog for bilstein and look at 3 main items. The shock mounts on each end (stem vs eye), the extended and collapsed length and the valving

Yeah I thought it may keep running without it especially in closed loop but it’s shuts off immediately. Something changed with the cam sensor in the 94 model also. I switched to a 95 dizzy with cam sensor and it plugs right in.

Can’t quite read the numbers off of the table. Looks like an HP tuners map

Why would that be helpful? The op has an aftermarket ecu. Knowing the cam specs may be nice if not stock though.

Are those the measurements from full droop to your bump stops? I normally get a shock about 1” shorter than the length needed at full stuff (when the bump stop is compressed/bottomed out). Sounds like a 10” travel shock should work for you. You’ll always get more droop though when flexing on the trail with the weight of the truck shifting around. As for where to buy the shocks, Amazon is where I’ve gotten them in the past after looking up the part number in the online Bilstein catalog for the right length. Summit stocks almost all of them also. Accutune is also great if you’d like to have the valving adjusted for your rig right off the bat. They tune both fox and bilsteins and have them in stock. As for which valving to pick on your own, you’ll have to guestimate based on the weight you’ll be carrying and the road you’ll be driving frequently.

I’m following up on this one. Thanks!

I’d also suggest running 31’s with maybe a very mild or no lift. 33’s require quite a bit more work.

Oooh tell us more! The 4.0 was always computer controlled and the timing was not adjusted. The distributor was simply “phased” into the correct position and the ecu ran the timing off of its preprogrammed table. That being said I know WOT timing is a conservative 28* on both obd1 and obd2 4.0’s. Base timing is probably somewhere between 10-14. I’m adjusting my timing on my built 4.0 to 14* at idle with 34* all in. If you wanted to be a bit more cautious 12* base and 32* all in would be a good place to start. how are you adjusting timing? Are you reprogramming the ecu or do you have an hei installed? Please let us know what sort of stand alone ecu you have on your rig. Pics would be great.

The lines are 3/16. If you buy any replacement lines you can use the regular old steel lines but it’s much easier to use the newer copper nickel lines. Most auto parts stores have started to carry them. The rental flare tool has a tough time double flaring steel line. I’d replace the line from the load sensing valve down to the axle. However, if your willing to take some more time and invest a bit more for a long term solution then do what @Pete M suggests and run a new line back from the distribution block under the hood to the rear axle. This will eliminate the load sensing valve along with its convoluted (albeit ingenious) shuttle valve and bypass lines. the fitting size for the load sensing valve to axle is 3/16 inverted flare. Reflaring what’s left of that existing rusted line will be brutal with a rental flare tool.