ghetdjc320

I suppose you could if you could grab an earlier model blue tach and the police Speedo.

I ordered my rear addco bar a few months ago. They still make them new

Yeah I like that clean factory optioned look. I’d use the boostwerks hidden winch setup though with the steering pillow bushing. I can fab that roll bar up easy enough if I don’t find a good used one. I got some oem fog lights already and will keep a keen eye out for a brush guard. I have a set of tow hooks also with brackets.

The 99 console will fit but will have a gap where the old console would meet the dash. I use the newer style console and I think it’s a far better design but you either have to live with the gap or fill it with something. The flywheel should be resurfaced. Typically your local Napa/oreillys can do this if they can turn rotors also. You can drive around without a front driveshaft and just leave the transfer case in 2wd (not neutral) assuming you have the typical NP231. A dana 44 and dana 35 driveshaft lengths are close. About 1” difference so it “may” work but you’ll have to measure to see.

Going to stay oem on this one. Thinking of maybe something like one if these: This is a 90’ eliminator and probably what mine looked like:

I don’t know how much it it for just the axle portion of the quote but brakes should be pretty cheap. Let’s say it’s $200 for brakes (which is very high). That would leave $1000 for an axle rebuild. That’s not a regear mind you but just a R&R of what’s there. Imho that is extremely expensive. If the leak is that bad than you probably wouldn’t be leaking any more as the fluid would have run out. At most shops (although it depends a lot on where you live) they charge a few hundred for a gear swap. Which is a lot more work than replacing bearings and seals.

If your looking for an upgrade to the stock bar you can get the 1.125” bar from a later XJ. I believe 94 was a crossover year. I picked up this bar since it’s was the larger oem version at an unbeatable price: https://teamcherokee.com/front-sway-bar-assembly-oem-jeep-cherokee-xj-1994-2001/ Also running the addco rear bar. Great combo with the 28mm oem front bar. I think it was Hornbrod who suggested this setup after trying several other versions. Here is the thread discussing the addco and the later model oem:

That’s right

So from all the pics I’ve been gathering, the eliminator should have body colored flares, grill and headlight bezels correct? Along with 10hole wheels with the rivets? Just getting all the details sorted out for an oem restoration with a few updates like the 97+ xj windshield trim.

Lol, it’s a bit if an odd site but I have gotten some hard to find steering column parts from them years ago. They’ve been around a while it seems.

LMGTFY: https://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/steering-column-parts/gm-buick-cadillac-chevrolet-oldsmobile-pontiac.php

This is my 90 eliminator original dash This is my 91 dash with the police package Speedo, oil, temp and voltage. Only the tach and the fuel gauge are original 91 MJ

Checkout the brake upgrades thread in the DIY section. The liberty 8.25 is a nice swap. Disks, the right wheel pattern, and nice width. That being said, I’ve towed 2-3 tons with my Dana 35.

The regular 91-96 HO’s both MJ and XJ were red. The police package XJ had a 120mph “certified calibration” speedometer and the entire cluster looks similar to the renix eras but were HO clusters. Some of the export HO clusters had a 120mph speedometer in red.

YJ lines are good for about 4” over stock. Extended length YJ lines work for the front as needed. Is you lift over 6”? On my soa I run the C1500 line and it works well. here is some additional info:

OBD1 was used in 1991-1995 XJ’s and 91-92 MJs. The 90’ and earlier 4.0 has a renix efi system. I believe there are some difficulties swapping in a 4.0 in an 86 MJ due to motor mounts among other things. I am sure others can chime in. In regards to obd2, once you get the engine physically installed you can run it with just about anything if your up for the wiring and requisite sensors. If you need specific info let us know. It has been done many times here.

It was the distributor indexing. That along with some fresh plugs and it fired right up and runs great. Had to cut the tabs off the dizzy and just use the regular hood down clamp. Made sure the cranks was dead on TDC and adjusted the dizzy using the pin method.

@Limeyjeeper has probably one of the best covers made. It’s an aluminum slat retractable cover. Super nice. I was in the process of getting one ordered but it wouldn’t fit with my hylift jack aver the wheel well. I run the Downey now. A trifold would be nice as well if it didn’t take up any extra bed space

If I swap efi systems I’m going aftermarket for sure

That indexing is for a renix distributor on a stock engine. Doesn’t really apply in my case but I did check it out. Thanks!

Ok se here are the latest test results: pushrods are not bent and it does not seem like there is a worn or wiped cam lobe. Compression tested great on all cylinders around 150. I have adjustable roller rockers so I did do some fine lash adjustments but nothing was really out of whack. What I did find came in the way of distributor indexing. The distributor is not lining up as it should. Now consider I have an aftermarket cam and this may account for it. I may have to cut the ears off the distributor and get it properly set. Currently the rotor is too far clockwise when installed and properly lined up with the bolt hole. my cam sensor also looks a bit different than most I see. Tagging @Minuit since I know he also has an HO. I’m sure there are others I’m forgetting. Here is where the rotor should line up (this is not my picture, it’s from angelfire). Note that I have a different cam sensor but you can still reference the position based on the metal tab. The rotor should point to the 5 o clock position with the engine at TDC on compression stroke. Here is where mine lines up with the engine at TDC and the dizzy fully seated and lined up with the hold down bolt: Here is where mine should line up if I use the pin through the factory holes method: But when the rotor (and consequently the cam sensor) are in the right position, it will not align with the hold down bolt: And this is what my cam sensor looks like: Now i can theorize that one of three things is the issue here. 1. This is an aftermarket cam and I may have to cut off the distributor ears to properly index it since the valve timing may be a bit different from a factory cam. 2. My timing is off a tooth and causing this or is in some way damaged. 3. There is some other electrical issue that is the underlying problem. If I’m going to tear into the engine to replace the timing chain I may swap in a different cam and get rid of this obd1 fuel injection all together. I don’t like it and can’t get feedback from anything. If i do that I’ll go with a Holley terminator X or HP system. I already built a nice base tune for this engine in the Holley software. But first of all I need to figure out if I have a mechanical problem here. Any thoughts? And here is a pic of the beautiful valvetrain that unfortunately is always covered with a black tin can:

A good possibility especially with my 505 “performance” cam. I have good compression but zippo power

The gas is good. Filled up 2 cars same time same pump. It feels like I have a slight mechanical issue (maybe timing chain or cam???) and the computer is going nuts.

Refurbished e brake units should be finding their way to the vendors section shortly

I’ve thought it may be a timing chain issue. Haven’t checked it yet but it’s on the list. Pump was replaced, no difference. I have adjustable roller rockers also so I was going to check out the valve adjustments. Just a huge pain to get to it.