Warren99

Yea I went and saw Gjeeps build. I have plenty of time to decide what I wanna do. If I happen to find some triangle windows that fold in a junkyard in good condition I'm just simply putting those in.

Yea, it has a lighter tint to it

I've seen these before but I swear I've heard they changed in 89 from somewhere. And this XJ doesn't look like the same Spinnaker blue I've seen on others.

Fuel pumps are unique? You can't buy a new one anywhere?

Right, I'll check there too. My parts MJ still had that tailight harness in, and had an additional one just laying in the bed. I also basically the entire harness from the engine bay, so I pretty much have an unlimited supply of oem color/size wires

Ha! I'll just do that first then. I need to figure out why my reverse lights randomly stopped working tho, probably the switch on the side of the trans... I'll look into that another time it can wait

What is this color's name or code or whatever https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1424416504761237/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Aa6d1f4e3-4abf-4195-87ec-7300ee92a056

Ok, funnily enough the parts MJ I have came with fully complete 97 doors with power everything

I know it's popular to take the window from a 97+ XJ door and with a little bit of modification you can put it in an MJ door, which eliminates the pillar in the window. Everytime I've seen this it's with a manual window, I was wondering if it's possible to take a Comanche with power windows and put in the 97+ glass. Even if it is possible, I don't know if I'd go that route or not because I rly like the idea of vent triangle windows, I just need to find some.

I'm not really familiar with any of that kind of stuff. If you think it'll look OEM black then how much for you to do 4 or so(I'll figure out exactly how many later) and ship to 30281?

Yea it's best to just replace both. When I went to replace my terminal clamps I figured might as well do the whole cable bc it wasn't that much extra work and I already had spare cable, and after I did, not only did it obviously fix the whole click followed by no power issue, but the starter turned over a LOT faster.

Thanks but I don't wanna deal with the hassle of shipping and ruin some cordovan ones. And for some reason I didn't really think abt the whole painting thing. I'll just get some grey ones or whatever color I see next from the junkyard and paint them.

I saw, I forgot which number it was

Mine used to do this exact thing. The fix for mine ended up being replacing the ground cable from the battery to the block, and the cable from the battery to the starter. Overall this sounds like a bad connection issue so like he said, I'd check how the connection is on your terminal clamps. Then look at the cables themselves overall and where it bolts to the block. Keep in mind you could easily have a connection on the battery, proof of that is how your dome lights and stuff turns on. But if it's not good then as soon as you try to use the starter the AMPs are just way too high so it basically quits and you have to disconnect and reconnect it. -Heads up if you go to remove the negative cable from the stud in the side of the block, theres a good chance the stud will just spin. If this happens you can fit an e torx socket on the end of the stud to hold it still.

Wait so you can just get an SRT4 engine from a PT Cruiser? What models had them? How rare are they? That's crazy I would have never known!

Is the third bag black or brown, I can't tell. I need a few black one's, if you have some and want to sell @ or dm me please

Ohhhh, you're silent_partn3r on insta! I've always seen your stuff on their and kinda assumed u must be on here, just never looked for some reason.

I've been thinking about putting a little pod or maybe two under my bumper or something for when you are backing into somewhere tight at night. Not like I do that too often tho so I could also just get a cheap small flood light with a magnet and stick it on when needed.

From the wording I was assuming it would be a lot brighter than normal ones

Yea that would be awesome, then you could choose to have them not as dark

Oh ok, maybe I'll do that

Me too, it looks pretty clean

Forgot to mention, it came with a 97-01 header panel, bumper, and power doors and mirrors. I'm either gonna have them in storage for a while or trash them. If anyone wants them lmk, I ain't gonna want much for them.

This '87 Comanche Chief popped up on marketplace for $600. It had a fully loaded black interior with power windows and mirrors, the '87 all gauges gauge cluster, and it ran and drove with the 4wd still working. Unfortunately someone beat me to it by an hour, but I was able to get the new owners number and we worked out a deal. Basically I took the truck home, and do the labor of pulling the engine, trans, and axles for him to come get, then I get to keep everything else. I only just recently was able to work on it and the entire truck is stripped down minus the axles. I'm gonna swap the whole interior into mine, including the rear window since mine is an aftermarket 4 piece. While doing that, I'm also gonna convert my A/C to r134a and get it working, and lay down some sound deadening. I will post updates once that goes in motion.

June 2022- I got some long arms from Rusty's Offroad. I went with the 4 link set up, which I think only says Cherokee but the same long arms are used in a "Comanche long arm kit". Overall so far I'm happy with them, but there were a few things that weren't mentioned that you should know about if you are looking at some. On Comanches there is an additional support under the floor (second pic) that is not present on Cherokees. In order to fit around it, you need to trim some of your frame stiffening plate in order to fit around it. Also, the driver side upper control arm mount is right where the fuel and brake lines are. I'm not sure if these are different on Cherokees or what, but I just sorta bent them up out of the way, and told myself that was gonna be a temporary fix but look at me now haha. Nevertheless, right after I had them installed I had friends driving at a 4th of July Drift event at the Atl Motorsports Park, and I took the long arms on their first true test drive. -This first pic shows my cross member before the long arms. This is the Peugeot BA/10 crossmember with an ax-15 and np231 on it. I just used some square tubing to give it the 1 inch drop that the right crossmember has.