Warren99

I was thinking about getting these tires from the junkyard, but I might have to pay for the wheels too, and only be able to return them for instore credit, rather than my cash back. They were on a 94 Country XJ, but I think they came from a 97+ Country XJ. Junkyard price would be right around $100. How much could I reasonably expect to sell them myself?

Update: Everything is bolted on before the door skins. Everything works, but the lock switch on passenger side is a little sensitive( PO sent a self tapper thru it, I'll just get new switches from the junkyard, I need the clips anyways). Having not even cleaned/greased the tracks yet, I'm pretty happy with the speed. In the future when it gets slower I'll look into setting up relays or a step up converter. Also the PO put a different motor on the passenger side. Same shape and design, just different lettering and colored wires. I'd guess it came from the junkyard, but it seems to work fine so.

Now I somehow gotta flatten this out to fit the new one in

Nvm

The spring mechanism that hold the door at different positions seems to be stuck in the door. Probably has to do with how the rod pushed itself thru the skin

Not done yet, but so far not terrible. Unless you have the right size rivets you’ll need some 1/4 inch hardware

In the middle of installing stuff right now. I’m perfectly happy with the strength/speed of the driver side window, havent got to test anything else yet

Any recommendations for how to secure the switches to the bezel? I haven't looked into it much yet but I will need to for my passenger side.

I'll keep this in mind. Is there any potential damage from running the motors at 19V?

I didn't see anything for relays, but I'm trying to avoid having to do that anyway. If I get it all set up in my doors and cleaned and they are too slow then I might do relays or new motors, although likely look into the relays before new motors.

Alright I'll try that when I get to that point. Do you think silicon spray would be the thing to spray into the chain part of the assembly, or should I be using wd40 or something like it?

About to install power windows and locks (from 87 Chief) into my 89 Base. As of right now, I haven't done anything to the window tracks them selves, but they seem pretty slow. I don't wanna have to do a window relay set up or anything, so keeping that in mind, what should I use to clean/lube it up? Also should I take the motors apart and clean the contacts? Should I just spend $100 on a set of new aftermarket motors?

If they are the same as the ones on the driver side then I see what they look like now. Update: Cleaned out all of the switches and put in new dielectric grease and everything seems to be working properly now. The door lock actuator that I "rebuilt" isn't working very reliably so I have another new one is coming here on Tuesday.

Mine's an 89 Manual, but I swear there wasn't a key showing which pins were "BW' OR "BV" like that. Is it under the power door locks sections, or somewhere in the wiring diagram sections?

Thank you. Do you have a picture of the NOS retainers that hold the switches in place? I'd like to do a better job than what the previous owner did.

Update: I took apart the switches and they were filled with green grease which was pretty nasty in some places. I did a quick clean on it and now the lock actuator goes in and out, only not working occasionally. I'm gonna take apart all of the switches and put some dielectric grease in them.

Something important to consider, the passenger side switches. The locks don't even lock from this side, but even stranger is the fact that the power window only moves in one direction, but won't go in the other. The reason for this might be because the previous owner messed with them at some point. They have self tappers holding them in place. The screws may be messing with the switches which could be enough to cause all of this. In this pic, the top switch is the lock switch. notice how it's loose and only being held in by the screw. The window switch has one too, but at least it's rigidly mounted. I'm gonna take the screws out and test them, + take them apart if needed to see if this is my issue.

If the issue is a problem with one of my switches, could I just go use the ones from an XJ? I know of a 4 door laredo XJ in a local junkyard that has power windows and locks.

I have all my power windows and locks hooked up electrically, just sitting outside of the doors. After cleaning the contacts I got them to lock, although sometimes a bit fineky, probably just a dirty connection still. Neither of them will unlock. I understand the diagram and how they work, but I cannot understand where "switch 1", "Switch 2" etc are. Any experts able to tell me which prongs are which swithches? As far as I'm aware, red is where the power comes from the truck, and blue is where the ground is, which is spread out to every pin touching the copper plate ofc. Red lead is on the power prong from the last pic. When the lock switch is set to lock, there is continuity between it and the black lead's prong. The prong to the left of the black lead's prong always has continuity to the black lead's prong, but doesn't seem to have continuity to the red one when the switch is in LOCK for some reason. The prong which is touching the black lead always has continuity to the red lead's prong, no matter the position of the lock switch. I couldn't find any continuity differences between the upper right corner 6 prongs(these are the ones on the back of the Lock switch) when the Lock switch was set to unlock. Perhaps this indicates that the switch itself is bad, but I'm not sure.

I just installed an oem slider window in my MJ. I noticed two prominent gaps with the gasket/seal that I couldn't get to stay closed before the sealant solidified. Are these potentially going to cause any issue in the future? If so, what is the best way I should go about fixing them?

Well I got the one working fine, but I broke a little pin inside the second one. I might have a way of fixing it, but if not then I'm just gonna buy a new one. https://www.amazon.com/AUTOHAUX-Actuator-Chevrolet-16603085-22020256/dp/B091C5SS1R/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=DfDS4&content-id=amzn1.sym.bc5f3394-3b4c-4031-8ac0-18107ac75816&pf_rd_p=bc5f3394-3b4c-4031-8ac0-18107ac75816&pf_rd_r=JEABAYT9BVZ4CW5TX1B8&pd_rd_wg=rvQEi&pd_rd_r=5f3adf11-5ca5-46b9-9ed7-80179cf1b10c&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m Anything wrong with getting one of these?

An update: I got one working fine, having more problems with the second but still working on it

I believe there is, not sure where it is though

Alright