Warren99

If they are the same as the ones on the driver side then I see what they look like now. Update: Cleaned out all of the switches and put in new dielectric grease and everything seems to be working properly now. The door lock actuator that I "rebuilt" isn't working very reliably so I have another new one is coming here on Tuesday.

Mine's an 89 Manual, but I swear there wasn't a key showing which pins were "BW' OR "BV" like that. Is it under the power door locks sections, or somewhere in the wiring diagram sections?

Thank you. Do you have a picture of the NOS retainers that hold the switches in place? I'd like to do a better job than what the previous owner did.

Update: I took apart the switches and they were filled with green grease which was pretty nasty in some places. I did a quick clean on it and now the lock actuator goes in and out, only not working occasionally. I'm gonna take apart all of the switches and put some dielectric grease in them.

Something important to consider, the passenger side switches. The locks don't even lock from this side, but even stranger is the fact that the power window only moves in one direction, but won't go in the other. The reason for this might be because the previous owner messed with them at some point. They have self tappers holding them in place. The screws may be messing with the switches which could be enough to cause all of this. In this pic, the top switch is the lock switch. notice how it's loose and only being held in by the screw. The window switch has one too, but at least it's rigidly mounted. I'm gonna take the screws out and test them, + take them apart if needed to see if this is my issue.

If the issue is a problem with one of my switches, could I just go use the ones from an XJ? I know of a 4 door laredo XJ in a local junkyard that has power windows and locks.

I have all my power windows and locks hooked up electrically, just sitting outside of the doors. After cleaning the contacts I got them to lock, although sometimes a bit fineky, probably just a dirty connection still. Neither of them will unlock. I understand the diagram and how they work, but I cannot understand where "switch 1", "Switch 2" etc are. Any experts able to tell me which prongs are which swithches? As far as I'm aware, red is where the power comes from the truck, and blue is where the ground is, which is spread out to every pin touching the copper plate ofc. Red lead is on the power prong from the last pic. When the lock switch is set to lock, there is continuity between it and the black lead's prong. The prong to the left of the black lead's prong always has continuity to the black lead's prong, but doesn't seem to have continuity to the red one when the switch is in LOCK for some reason. The prong which is touching the black lead always has continuity to the red lead's prong, no matter the position of the lock switch. I couldn't find any continuity differences between the upper right corner 6 prongs(these are the ones on the back of the Lock switch) when the Lock switch was set to unlock. Perhaps this indicates that the switch itself is bad, but I'm not sure.

I just installed an oem slider window in my MJ. I noticed two prominent gaps with the gasket/seal that I couldn't get to stay closed before the sealant solidified. Are these potentially going to cause any issue in the future? If so, what is the best way I should go about fixing them?

Well I got the one working fine, but I broke a little pin inside the second one. I might have a way of fixing it, but if not then I'm just gonna buy a new one. https://www.amazon.com/AUTOHAUX-Actuator-Chevrolet-16603085-22020256/dp/B091C5SS1R/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=DfDS4&content-id=amzn1.sym.bc5f3394-3b4c-4031-8ac0-18107ac75816&pf_rd_p=bc5f3394-3b4c-4031-8ac0-18107ac75816&pf_rd_r=JEABAYT9BVZ4CW5TX1B8&pd_rd_wg=rvQEi&pd_rd_r=5f3adf11-5ca5-46b9-9ed7-80179cf1b10c&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m Anything wrong with getting one of these?

An update: I got one working fine, having more problems with the second but still working on it

I believe there is, not sure where it is though

Alright

Yea I may just add extra grounds to the ground wire on either side.

Yea all of the assembly’s are still out luckily, I’ll probably take a look at the motors once I get everything working first, then I’ll put everything in the doors. You said I could get lock actuators from chevys from the same era, what about window motors? Asking incase I go to clean the motors and they turn out to be impossible for me to restore back to original power.

Yea I'll try lubing it up when I get to that point. As for the pink and red wires going to the fuse panel, according to the service manual, the pink one going to "power accy" is to send constant power to the locks no matter the key position. As for the windows, "With the ignition switch in RUN, voltage is applied through the power window circuit breaker VIO wire to the master switch assembly and to the passenger's window switches." Idk what VIO means, but I assume this is the red wire going to the fuse panel.

Ok thanks. I’ll try servicing them both first. They did come from a Michigan MJ which was literally rusted in half, so I’m sure they could use some cleaning. Once I get those fixed, I’ll be figuring out why the passenger window motor only goes down. Any guesses for now? Also, both window motors just seem a little weak in general. Can I improve them by also taking them apart and cleaning them, or are those a little harder to restore, to the point where I should just look for another pair?

unless for some reason putting 12 volts directly to the contacts on the lock actuator isn’t the proper way to make it work, then this one is fried. can I buy them new anywhere, or will I have to search in a junkyard for some?

Ah ok. I’m testing my actuators with jumpers now, but other than that I’m done for today

Yea I see what you mean. So I just ohmed out the switches, or at least right where the plug is going to the lock actuator. Both sides switches appear to be working, it’s a constant ground, which then goes away when you use the switch (or at least the multimeter no longer sees it as basically no resistance.) for the driver side, flipping the switch to lock also sent 12 volts to it according to the multimeter, but didn’t send any voltage when on unlock( less than .2 volts). Is that how it works normally? either way, when set to lock, the lock actuator still doesn’t work. I’ll use jumper cables to make sure but it seems like it just doesn’t work.

These 3 connectors go to the door panel switch. The top one is the one I’m calling the speaker plug. I did just find these two cut wires which match two of the ones on the speaker plug. So I’m guessing those are for the speaker, and the third wire from the speaker plug, which is black, is the main ground, or one of them

Interesting. Well I did the same thing but connected the speaker wire plug from the cab to the connector that goes to the switch panel on the door and it worked. Sorta. So the driver side window goes up and down, and the passenger side window goes down but not up. Neither lock mechanisms work. I’ll need to test them with jumpers to see if I have a problem with my switches or the mechanisms themselves

I’m now wondering if it grounds via the speaker connector, it’s part of the same harness for the door switch panel

The harness I got from the 87 parts Comanche consists of the pink and red wires in the fuse panel, which then go right to the harness. For the driver side there is the 3 pin black connector, and 6 pin white connector. Then the loom shoots straight to the passenger side where it has the same two connectors, but both are black, and the 6 pin has only 5, missing the pink colored one.

No clue, I assumed the red wire was a ground

As far as I can tell these two wires (pink and red) are all that powers and grounds the loom that hooks up to the power windows and locks. I was about to install my new powered guts into my doors, but first I hooked up the connectors to test them and nothing works.(not sure about the locks, but a few months ago I had jumper cables right to the window motors and they both seem to work fine). Are the two wires on the fuse block the proper way to power everything? If so, where do they get power from?