Warren99

Yea I may just add extra grounds to the ground wire on either side.

Yea all of the assembly’s are still out luckily, I’ll probably take a look at the motors once I get everything working first, then I’ll put everything in the doors. You said I could get lock actuators from chevys from the same era, what about window motors? Asking incase I go to clean the motors and they turn out to be impossible for me to restore back to original power.

Yea I'll try lubing it up when I get to that point. As for the pink and red wires going to the fuse panel, according to the service manual, the pink one going to "power accy" is to send constant power to the locks no matter the key position. As for the windows, "With the ignition switch in RUN, voltage is applied through the power window circuit breaker VIO wire to the master switch assembly and to the passenger's window switches." Idk what VIO means, but I assume this is the red wire going to the fuse panel.

Ok thanks. I’ll try servicing them both first. They did come from a Michigan MJ which was literally rusted in half, so I’m sure they could use some cleaning. Once I get those fixed, I’ll be figuring out why the passenger window motor only goes down. Any guesses for now? Also, both window motors just seem a little weak in general. Can I improve them by also taking them apart and cleaning them, or are those a little harder to restore, to the point where I should just look for another pair?

unless for some reason putting 12 volts directly to the contacts on the lock actuator isn’t the proper way to make it work, then this one is fried. can I buy them new anywhere, or will I have to search in a junkyard for some?

Ah ok. I’m testing my actuators with jumpers now, but other than that I’m done for today

Yea I see what you mean. So I just ohmed out the switches, or at least right where the plug is going to the lock actuator. Both sides switches appear to be working, it’s a constant ground, which then goes away when you use the switch (or at least the multimeter no longer sees it as basically no resistance.) for the driver side, flipping the switch to lock also sent 12 volts to it according to the multimeter, but didn’t send any voltage when on unlock( less than .2 volts). Is that how it works normally? either way, when set to lock, the lock actuator still doesn’t work. I’ll use jumper cables to make sure but it seems like it just doesn’t work.

These 3 connectors go to the door panel switch. The top one is the one I’m calling the speaker plug. I did just find these two cut wires which match two of the ones on the speaker plug. So I’m guessing those are for the speaker, and the third wire from the speaker plug, which is black, is the main ground, or one of them

Interesting. Well I did the same thing but connected the speaker wire plug from the cab to the connector that goes to the switch panel on the door and it worked. Sorta. So the driver side window goes up and down, and the passenger side window goes down but not up. Neither lock mechanisms work. I’ll need to test them with jumpers to see if I have a problem with my switches or the mechanisms themselves

I’m now wondering if it grounds via the speaker connector, it’s part of the same harness for the door switch panel

The harness I got from the 87 parts Comanche consists of the pink and red wires in the fuse panel, which then go right to the harness. For the driver side there is the 3 pin black connector, and 6 pin white connector. Then the loom shoots straight to the passenger side where it has the same two connectors, but both are black, and the 6 pin has only 5, missing the pink colored one.

No clue, I assumed the red wire was a ground

As far as I can tell these two wires (pink and red) are all that powers and grounds the loom that hooks up to the power windows and locks. I was about to install my new powered guts into my doors, but first I hooked up the connectors to test them and nothing works.(not sure about the locks, but a few months ago I had jumper cables right to the window motors and they both seem to work fine). Are the two wires on the fuse block the proper way to power everything? If so, where do they get power from?

ah ok thx

If it fails in the future, I'll give an update here. If it continues to work forever then it might not be a bad idea for other people who don't want to take apart the column and do it the better way.

Behold the not so temporary temporary solution! I drilled a hole in the column plastic, then got my dad to safety wire it. If anyone knows how to use safety wire, it’s an aircraft technician

Nice nice

Doesn't the parking brake cable have it's own grommet? Might fit there better than the harness rubber plug, idk tho

I'm 90% sure that I didn't keep the cable that goes to it, but I can look to my parts and if I find it I'll use it. But for now, I'll try to come up with another temporary solution before I tear apart the whole column. And worst case, if my next solution fails when I'm out parking somewhere, I can just disconnect a few things under the hood to make it not start.

I mean I don't remember noticing a problem, but I could have easily just not noticed. I'm not too worried about it, I'll just add those to the list of things I for sure need to grab from a Cherokee with a black interior next time I happen to see one.

No, the driver side does appear to be further towards center than the left, you can see it in the pics I posted

Jesus, has anybody melted a wire or started a fire from a courtesy light on the lower dash? I just got them hooked up and they are hot enough that it’s an instant burn when you touch them

Oh ok, I coulda sworn there was a “cruise” light on the left side of the gauge cluster

While I’m here, for cruise control, I’m pressing different buttons while I sit here in idle, but no lights are coming on the dash. Is the only indicator that cruise is working when your moving and engage it?

Yea, it’s less than a 1/4 inch from touching the other visor. the cloth/visor part itself does have a tiny bit of side to side play along the rod, but the rod itself seems solid, not slide-able