Warren99

I’ll just leave it. It can still pop into the clip, just that some of the felt is against it, but no big deal

These visors came from an 87 Comanche Chief, which was automatic and 4wd. It’s now in my 89 base model which started out as manual and 2wd and now is ax15 swapped and 4wd

It only fits one way. There’s a key way and the 3 holes don’t make an equilateral triangle.

Like I’d have to make new holes?

Sun visor from an 87 MJ, going into a 89MJ. Passenger side seems right, but the driver side is way too long and won’t fit. What’s the deal with this?

Never mind, it slowly pushes away until it locks. Can I use a zip tie or something to hole it in place? I don’t see any issue with that as long as it doesn’t come loose or slip off

Thanks, that will make it a lot easier. But right now the rod is pulled towards the driver, and the key can freely cycle to everywhere it needs to be and it doesn’t kick the rod forward. Is there anything wrong with me just leaving it like that? What would make me have to take it apart and remove it?

Everyone’s favorite question to see under modification and repairs. But I don’t see what these go to, and ofcourse they are the only connectors I didn’t label. this 3 wire connector comes off the same loom as the wide and thin connector on the column. this single wire comes right off the loom coming from the computer

For me when it’s pulled toward the firewall, I can’t turn the key all the way off. What’s the name of your write up?

Nevermind! Found it, I’ll post a pic incase anyone else has this problem and finds this. this ball joint thing is how the column knows if an auto trans is in park. It needs to be pulled towards the driver to allow the key to be removed

87 automatic cruise control column, swapped onto a 89 manual MJ. Key clicks into what I think is accessory, then run, then start. But when rolled all the way back the key won’t come out. I’m guessing this has to do with the neutral safety switch kinda deal from the auto. What do I have to do? Pic shows key as far backwards(counter clockwise) as it lets me turn it

From the "Removal and replacement of my slider back window" thread: What kind of sealant is this?

Oh yea I know, my rear window has gotten BAD so once I get the dash wired up to where it runs and therefore can move again, I'll probably put priority on getting the new window in.

Ohh ok thank you all

Yea I can't wait to get the rest in. The only thing I won't have is the headliner. The black one was in rough shape so I'm leaving the gray one in for now. Also the trans is from a YJ that's why the shifter is so tall lol. Now that I'm talking about it, would a shifter from an AX-15 XJ bolt right up to mine? If it's easy enough I'll grab one next time I'm in a junkyard. The tall shifter never really bothered me before, but now that I'm about to have a center console, I'll probably rather have the regular height lol

Can someone explain to me real quick what a D44a is and what they come in? I always just thought a D44 was a D44, and simply better than the D35. Is the D44a aluminum somewhere or something?

Just got the dash in today. Gonna be trying to do everything else over the weekend. So far no major road bumps👍🏻

I always like seeing non jeep seats that fit well

The EVAP core didn’t have any foam around it at all. The new heater core was bigger than the OEM one and wouldn’t fit with OEM foam wrapped around it. I literally just got the HVAC box mounted so it’s gonna have to stay that way lol.

Wow, I would be afraid to use that for anything lol

Ok thx

Still waiting on input on that probe thing that I stuck into the EVAP core. I'm planning on trying to get the HVAC back in later today, but I'd hate to do it then find out I have to take it back out to do something else with that probe.

Lol I thought the same thing afterwards. All the sealant that was pushed around the nut cracked and fell off when I first looked at it with my eyes. Either way, it seems to have gotten into the threads

Do the nuts come from the factory with this gooey loctite stuff? Only way I was able to get the nut off was by overtightening it in a vice, and the other 4 studs can't wiggle out of the firewall, and there's no way I can get a vice grip on the shoulder. I think I might just cut them out of the fire wall, and look for some similarly threaded screws somewhere to hold it in. The only issue I see with that is the next time I'm putting the HVAC box back in I'll need help, but I'm not concerned about that.

Here is what the OEM evaporator and heater core look like, with the rubber insulation stuff I was talking about before laying around the heater core.