Warren99

2 inch, but the intercooler itself has 2 1/4 inch. I went with 2 inch pipes because thats the diameter of the turbo outlet, and it was a tight fit, had to trim a good bit of fiberglass

I still haven't cut any of the old harness out, as I don't wanna end up finding out something I cut out was being used as a ground for something I'm still using or something dumb like that lol. But for now it's just tucked out of the way. I made the gauge mount from a license plate and a hose clamp. Eventually I wanna mount the egt gauge where the clock bezel is, and replace the stock voltmeter with a boost gauge that looks like the one that came in the 86 models with the 2.1 renault engine. So if anyone needs a working clock bezel and has a base model blank one then I'll trade eventually. Relocated the battery to under the bed. Figured worst case scenario if it falls off, I can still drive home as long as I don't turn it off, I'll just lose my gauges.

OM606, 3.0 Mercedes turbo diesel. My battery is under my bed on the side of the frame rail now, so mounting the compressor back there would be better for the power draw. I'm wondering how much better the plate and fin design would help, I put a brand new evap core in like 2,000 miles ago before I pulled the 4.0 out and I'm really not feeling like pulling the dash and hvac box out again.

I engine swapped my MJ and theres no room for a belt driven ac compressor so I'm gonna try out one of those electric ones I've seen. Should be able to just upgrade my alternator, and then make custom lines/hoses to the stock jeep A/C components. I was curious if anyone had any advice like would longer A/C lines affect the effectiveness much? Because I relocated my battery to under my bed and theres not much room in the engine bay so ideally I'd like to mount the electric compressor somewhere under the bed as well. Also wondering if anyone has any advice for making the system more efficient, like instead of just using new components for a renix era A/C system, maybe I would be better off using components from a high output system, or an entirely different car altogether. I guess I mean like could I make it better by using a "better" receiver/drier or expansion valve, or maybe none of that really matters and it mostly boils down to the compressor, amount of freon, length of hoses, amount of air moving over condenser, etc. I don't really know much about A/C systems. But I should be able to just mix n match whatever with an electric compressor and the jeep evap core since I figured I can just get one of those hose crimping kits and make my own lines. here's an example of the type of compressor I mean https://www.amazon.com/ACTECMAX-Universal-Electric-Compressor-Conditioner/dp/B0CQYJ6PSS/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3FB9RLT0N8FJ4&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9._Y5ZuKNTltL35YqClfWHJfAUhzlpFpDyoKAtDPXKVFu6P-FrPvC2-wlP8KlLpuQmW3ii3EfOfYath3EAbDFAraD6osrLLkKHjA9mXquAPuwEpD70P2JcJEr0wcJYI_SSVn9HWOSFh5EnN3nfPx-ziJOliwc8bLk2gY6oEfWdL1s8NlavJkTAouwYrHoD3y8zEM0nSNHAzTetLnNbFaBkxfvYG2CwHtUkWOldGLWNw64.9Kk4Uq08G6VQsE-lSJJYPx09RvNR2eaogfpjyboIBiI&dib_tag=se&keywords=12v%2Bac%2Bcompressor&qid=1773283844&sprefix=%2Caps%2C575&sr=8-7&th=1

I've been really bad about updating sorry, and progress came to a halt for a few months but its almost ready for the first test drive under full power. Just need to mount an oil cooler, and install the EGT and boost gauge. I'll make a detailed update on here soon and post videos on youtube or something so I can link it here.

Not sure if this belongs here or in modifications and repairs but I have a red front fiberglass piece that I wanna paint white to match the rest of the truck. Its an 89 base model and I'm assuming I can find the paint code on the firewall or fenders or using the vin. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for where to find some. The rest of the trucks paint is pretty bad if ur not more than 10 feet away, so I'm not looking to do a professional paint job on this one little piece, I'd just like to make it the same or a very similar shade of white as the hood and fenders so it doesn't stick out. Thanks!

I labeled the B+ and D+, that other wire is for a resistor or capacitor or whatever that thing is on the back and it’s supposed to be connected to that spade that’s why i drew the line. the main battery connection on the alternator and the plug in my hand the yellow wire comes from that plug to here where it goes thru some kind of splice or fusable link ig then into the harness for all the other stuff. the tan wire comes from that plug and into this plug then to the instrument cluster according to the wiring diagram

I have an 89 MJ with a mercedes om606 engine in it. I'm currently trying to figure out how to wire it up. I figured it would be pretty self explanitory but the mercedes alternator has two posts, a "B+ and D+" while the jeep one had a battery terminal and a connector for a tan wire and a yellow wire. After looking at wire diagrams I see these two wires hook up to a regulator in the jeep alternator. From what I could figure out with some research, european alternators use B+ for the battery, and D+ is for the exciter wire and all other functions or something. So do I just directly connect the yellow and tan wires from the jeep to this D+ terminal? Or maybe theres something else I have to do like connect the yellow one to the D+ terminal and the tan one to a 12v in the run position wire. Kinda hoping someone will know exactly what the jeep alternator does to the yellow and tan wire. I'll send some various pics in a moment

Still trying to wrap my head around a few things, does the ICM modify the signal that it gets from the crank position sensor? Because if not maybe I could just ignore the coil and wire straight from the crank position sensor to the tach. Also still wondering if I can just wire it up and see what it does without risk of it causing damage to the tach. I'd assume it wouldn't cause any damaged and would just give bad readings but I don't know how the tach works in detail.

So my gauge cluster's tach is for a 4.0, and I mated a mercedes diesel to my ax15. It has a crank position sensor built into the block similar to the jeep one that goes on the bell housing which I can no longer use with the adapter plate I have on. I'm wondering if I can just simply hook up the jeep wire to the mercedes crank position sensor. According to some people the mercedes cps works off of a 5v sine wave. Is that also what the jeep uses? If not how can I convert it? Also I could very easily just hook it up and see if it seems to work. Not sure if that can somehow risk damaging the tach, but if it's risk free I'll just try it. Thanks

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4012827&cc=1181461&pt=2172&jsn=646 Thanks, this one for the 2.1 diesel looks perfect

Doing an engine swap and I need the coolant hose necks flipped, so I need the upper neck on the driver side and the lower on the passenger side. For simplicity I’m trying to keep it as a closed system like it was when stock (1989). Does anyone know of any radiators like this that will fit? I don’t really care what brand it is I just want something that will work so I can get this thing finally test driving thanks

Ah, yes that’s what it is thank you. I also added cruise control from some donor and never could get it to work. Not planning on trying to get it working again anytime soon seeing as I’m still trying to get this new swap road going

Doing an engine swap, didn’t label stuff properly and now I’m trying to remember what these two vacuum lines are for. This black line just runs all the way back to the vacuum reservoir in the bumper. I or someone else helping me labeled it with tape so it got unplugged from something but the tape isn’t readable or maybe wasn’t written on at all. This blue line is one of the ones that are a part of the 4wd system. My truck was originally 2wd and I swapped these in a while ago. I want to say this nipple was always broken and it was never hooked up to anything but my 4wd worked fine and truck ran fine. Regardless figured I’d mention it incase someone knows exactly what it does

Does anyone have a bell housing for an external slave cylinder ax15? I'm converting mine from internal to external. If you have a whole transmission and don't wanna separate them I'm still interested

Thats $1000, I just wanna spend $200-$300 on an oem style. If I find out the hard way that the stuff I do with it is too hard for it, then so be it I'll upgrade then. But until then, I'm currently running the old sloppy and leaking stock box and just want a refreshed one that isn't like some cheap chinese one.

Fast forward to now, here’s where I’m at f53e91e23d034f2997ce880070920e1c.mov But of course what would an engine swap be without running into a problem. I didn’t realize it but the adapter plate/flywheel and clutch kit I bought was actually made for an external slave cylinder ax15. I did some measurements, and the distance from the block of the 4.0 to the clutch fingers is about 7/8 of an inch from the distance from the new adapter plate and the new clutch fingers. So I think if I just make like a little spacer to sit behind the internal slave cylinder, it’ll all line up right. The measurements for the pilot bearing and spline engagement already check out so those should be fine. BUT, if anyone happens to have an external slave ax15 laying around, or just the bell housing and parts for it, let me know please. Because if this doesn’t work then I’ll have to just adapt over to an external slave setup which I’ve seen the parts going for $600-$700

Any good recommendations for a stock steering box? I'm on 32's, don't do any super crazy wheeling, it's just that mines always leaked, and steering still feels a little sloppy despite everything but the box being replaced, so I'm ready to just get a new steering box thats stock but I'm trying to avoid accidentally getting some chinese one or something bad I guess. I see a few options on rock auto all varying in price, and a similar story on oreilys. Please don't recommend a junkyard durango box. I've heard they aren't actually really stronger, and that you still need a spacer to make it work, and the steering box brace I have yet to actually install may not work over a durango box. Thank you!

Man that sucks, glad you're ok at least

Talking to him right now

I coulda sworn I remember reading a thread a few years ago saying he stopped making them. I'd love to buy one of his. @krustyballer16I'll Pm you on here and facebook

I saw a thread about this roughly but they were talking about modifying a universal receiver hitch. I wanna buy a receiver hitch for my 89 MJ. It has a 4.5”ish lift so I’m not gonna be towing anything crazy, I just would like to tow light stuff occasionally, and actually have something to attach to when I’m stuck or helping someone whose stuck. With all that being said, I see people talking about how they’re hard to find and not made anymore etc, but I found a few online pretty easy. What I’m asking ig is if these don’t fit right, but just say they do. Here’s one for example https://www.towuniverse.com/curt-2-front-receiver-hitch-select-jeep-cherokee-comanche-wagoneer-trailer-hitch/?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADI7fPUPG7EOPaGX4fxqMQmNGYaVv&gclid=Cj0KCQiAx9q6BhCDARIsACwUxu7NuELquqGxxZeUt90qvI02EUykz5Icn8sOdMGeFwzdtBnV9RVHsAEaAomrEALw_wcB

I saw a dude do a 617 swap in a MJ on youtube once, I'll see if I can find it. But I'm putting a 606 in mine soon, will probably have to do a rear sump conversion from a om648