Warren99

My 2wd 89 MJ with a 4.0 and the ba/10 5 speed came with 3.07s

Ah ok thank you

I thought low pinions were less desirable? Not sure if it has to do with strength or ground clearance but I had the impression that high pinion was always better

Ah ok, I mean if I find one I may swap it just for the peace of mind, and also I wouldn't wanna put much money into a dana 30 for a locker and CAD delete kit.

Thank you all but I should have clarified, I do plan to upgrade both axles in the future at the same time when I swap my mercedes' om606 TD. I'm aiming for around 300hp and not planning on doing any super crazy rock crawling or anything so I figured dana44 front and rear should work good, just not yet sure the best kinds to get. I daily my 98 e300 td, but I'm still basically just trying to get my truck back and moving as cheap and easy as possible, thats why I went and got the first dana35 I saw from a junkyard. I know the proper way to do things would be to just start with a fresh diff but, as I said, I just wanna throw this together as cheap as possible, and it only has to last for a little while until I have the money to build and swap my engine and get better axles. With that being said, I had my diffs apart today and discovered that my trucks diff(keep in mind my trucks axles aren't original, they came from some XJ some years ago) is a non-c-clip type, but the donor axle was a c-clip axle. Also, my spyder gears where what blew up, but the ring and pinion are unphased so we tried just taking the gears from the donor axle and putting those in the original carrier but they are ever so slightly different and won't fit. What I think I may do is see if I can find just the spider gears for sale somewhere, or just go back to the junkyard and search for some from there.

Happened a few weeks ago but I blew my rear diff doing dumb things lmao. I went and got a whole axle from a 94 xj and will swap the guts sometime soon. I've never worked on a diff before but I should have some help. Regardless if theres anything useful to know about these specfically please let me know. Thanks!

Actually I think I know the issue now lol. But yea I was getting annoyed and thought maybe someone on here could happen to know. But when I have the time and money, I'll be swapping a mechanical injection pump on, and building it for 300 hp. Then unless someone knows of a good manual trans and transfercase I could fit into my MJ, which will bolt up to an OM606 or has an existing adapter plate kit, then I'll get an adapter kit for my AX15 and see how well it holds up to it lol

As a disclaimer I won’t actually be building and swapping the engine for a few years, I’ll be daily driving the car in the meantime however. I just wasnt gonna start the thread until I actually started building the engine, but after driving 9 hours home with no issues, the next day it started dying when hot and not starting until it was cooled down. I’ve already changed a few things but It has me puzzled. Does anyone happen to have any knowledge on these? If so I’ll give way more details as to what’s happening and what all I’ve done so far.

So my lines are cracked and leaking now. My truck is an 89, but I swapped a pump from a 96 cherokee a long time ago. When I did, I used one of the lines from the Cherokee, and one line from my truck. My question is can I just order 2 new lines for a 96 cherokee and they both fit, or is the layout or steering box somehow different on a 89?

Pm sent

I can always go back. Not for a bit though. I don't remember for certain if the mirror's plastic piece was still in 1 piece or not. And are you talking about the A pillar trim? And the trim piece behind the seat was there, as well as the carpet panel if you want that too.

Nah, unsold, which is partly why I think they are asking too much.

My grandpa was a chinook pilot in vietnam. He had a dark green 65 mustang at some point, when he had my dad he traded it in for a "baby s**t yellow" mustang 2

I guess. I'd assume the 1 piece window for 400 and the gasket for 160 are crazy prices. When I get around to it I'll list mine for 200 on marketplace and see where it goes. Until then if anyone on here wants to make a lower offer go for it, especially if you can come pick it up or meet somewhat close, bc shipping that will suck.

I did that and still couldn't find any lol, just other related things

How do you look at sold prices? All I can seem to find are people with a gasket or a latch charging $200.

Yea that's what I was thinking.

I don't know how I completely forgot about the sending unit. But as far as the XJ goes, I'd love to grab all kinds of stuff but I'm 18 still living with my parents and they wouldn't be too thrilled about me bringing a lot of parts home to just sit and wait for someone to buy them. I still may be able to grab some stuff tho.

Why didn't I think of that

Whats a reasonable price for a rear window + gasket in fair condition? I have one I can sell now

Thats insane. I wish I could do something with it

"A9M397X288506" according to the website. https://upull.grayandwhite.com//////////stockbridge-inventory/

Are there two different kinds of blue interiors, or just all Navy? The wheel didn’t look that bad, but I didn’t have a puller. The XJ was very nasty, but some pieces could def be used for someone that needs them.

@eaglescout526 I grabbed the side moulding. As said before all were there except the one on the driver side bed behind the cab. What’s a shame is there’s a decent dent there, so there’s a chance it was popped off by the wheel loader guy when they were moving the truck around the yard. I also got the top plastic steps, and lights from the rear bumper. I didn’t bother with the end caps bc the nuts were rusty and wanting to round off. I also got the rear window and rain gutters. I thought abt getting the bedliner but I personally don’t think I’d ever use it, and it did have some screw holes on the top. Interestingly this truck used to have a bed cover. But anyways if someone wants that bedliner I’ll go get it for you, I just can’t seem to justify having it sit around.