Warren99

Doing an engine swap and I need the coolant hose necks flipped, so I need the upper neck on the driver side and the lower on the passenger side. For simplicity I’m trying to keep it as a closed system like it was when stock (1989). Does anyone know of any radiators like this that will fit? I don’t really care what brand it is I just want something that will work so I can get this thing finally test driving thanks

Ah, yes that’s what it is thank you. I also added cruise control from some donor and never could get it to work. Not planning on trying to get it working again anytime soon seeing as I’m still trying to get this new swap road going

Doing an engine swap, didn’t label stuff properly and now I’m trying to remember what these two vacuum lines are for. This black line just runs all the way back to the vacuum reservoir in the bumper. I or someone else helping me labeled it with tape so it got unplugged from something but the tape isn’t readable or maybe wasn’t written on at all. This blue line is one of the ones that are a part of the 4wd system. My truck was originally 2wd and I swapped these in a while ago. I want to say this nipple was always broken and it was never hooked up to anything but my 4wd worked fine and truck ran fine. Regardless figured I’d mention it incase someone knows exactly what it does

Does anyone have a bell housing for an external slave cylinder ax15? I'm converting mine from internal to external. If you have a whole transmission and don't wanna separate them I'm still interested

Thats $1000, I just wanna spend $200-$300 on an oem style. If I find out the hard way that the stuff I do with it is too hard for it, then so be it I'll upgrade then. But until then, I'm currently running the old sloppy and leaking stock box and just want a refreshed one that isn't like some cheap chinese one.

Fast forward to now, here’s where I’m at f53e91e23d034f2997ce880070920e1c.mov But of course what would an engine swap be without running into a problem. I didn’t realize it but the adapter plate/flywheel and clutch kit I bought was actually made for an external slave cylinder ax15. I did some measurements, and the distance from the block of the 4.0 to the clutch fingers is about 7/8 of an inch from the distance from the new adapter plate and the new clutch fingers. So I think if I just make like a little spacer to sit behind the internal slave cylinder, it’ll all line up right. The measurements for the pilot bearing and spline engagement already check out so those should be fine. BUT, if anyone happens to have an external slave ax15 laying around, or just the bell housing and parts for it, let me know please. Because if this doesn’t work then I’ll have to just adapt over to an external slave setup which I’ve seen the parts going for $600-$700

Any good recommendations for a stock steering box? I'm on 32's, don't do any super crazy wheeling, it's just that mines always leaked, and steering still feels a little sloppy despite everything but the box being replaced, so I'm ready to just get a new steering box thats stock but I'm trying to avoid accidentally getting some chinese one or something bad I guess. I see a few options on rock auto all varying in price, and a similar story on oreilys. Please don't recommend a junkyard durango box. I've heard they aren't actually really stronger, and that you still need a spacer to make it work, and the steering box brace I have yet to actually install may not work over a durango box. Thank you!

Man that sucks, glad you're ok at least

Talking to him right now

I coulda sworn I remember reading a thread a few years ago saying he stopped making them. I'd love to buy one of his. @krustyballer16I'll Pm you on here and facebook

I saw a thread about this roughly but they were talking about modifying a universal receiver hitch. I wanna buy a receiver hitch for my 89 MJ. It has a 4.5”ish lift so I’m not gonna be towing anything crazy, I just would like to tow light stuff occasionally, and actually have something to attach to when I’m stuck or helping someone whose stuck. With all that being said, I see people talking about how they’re hard to find and not made anymore etc, but I found a few online pretty easy. What I’m asking ig is if these don’t fit right, but just say they do. Here’s one for example https://www.towuniverse.com/curt-2-front-receiver-hitch-select-jeep-cherokee-comanche-wagoneer-trailer-hitch/?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADI7fPUPG7EOPaGX4fxqMQmNGYaVv&gclid=Cj0KCQiAx9q6BhCDARIsACwUxu7NuELquqGxxZeUt90qvI02EUykz5Icn8sOdMGeFwzdtBnV9RVHsAEaAomrEALw_wcB

I saw a dude do a 617 swap in a MJ on youtube once, I'll see if I can find it. But I'm putting a 606 in mine soon, will probably have to do a rear sump conversion from a om648

I do definitely need to redo gaskets bc it leaks like a mf. So I’m looking for a good kit for that too. How involved/annoying is changing the bearings too? Not sure if I want to but it’s kinda another one of those “while I’m there” things

Gonna need a SYE kit. Any good recommendations out there? I’ll be making roughly 350 hp after my engine swap, so if some are stronger than others I’ll get as strong as I can. Ax15 and np231

ah ok sweet, thanks

Looking at possibly getting an a XJ for a daily soon. I found a 96 2wd 5 speed 4.0 xj. All I'm wanting to know is, could that have a ba/10 or would they all be ax-15s by then? Also out of curiosity, when did they start putting the nv3550 in?

nvm, found what I needed. I'd delete the thread since it's basically useless but idk how

My axle tube seals are leaking on my newish dana44. Does anyone know a part number or anything to find the right seals? I mainly ask because back when I was getting new brake hardware, it was considered odd that I had an XJ dana44 with the 9 inch brake drums instead of 10 inch drums. I wanna make sure I get the right seals.

Doesn’t it require drilling out rivets or spot welds to take it apart?

My truck came with a broken cable on the spare tire holder under the bed. I've always thought about fixing it and putting a full sized 32 inch spare down there to match my tires, never really occurred to me that it's a pretty small cable, and if it were to break could cause a lot of damage by dropping a 32 inch tire under the bed while driving lol. Has anyone ever done this? May just throw the donut under to use in a pinch, and only bring my full sized spare on dedicated offroading trips.

Yea idk, but I made a post in the for sale thread. If any of yall or your friends want my welded (non c clip) dana 35 or the beat up non cad d30 you can have them for free. They are 3.55s I believe. Just pm me

Update, I went and picked up that dana 35 kit from summit this morning and got it all installed and so far all seems well, need to tighten up my parking brake cable still tho. So yeah I guess someone did put d35 brakes on it, but fine by me, maybe wayy into the future after my engine swap I'll do a rear disc conversion but I doubt I'll need it.

I've found a few examples of drums and full kits for dana 35s from YJs and TJs which match the 9 x 2.5" on my XJ Dana 44. I found this which if will work I'd be pleased to get as it's half the price of the other stuff I was seeing lol. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwr-koe15300dk?seid=srese1&ppckw=pmax-vf-power-stop&gclid=Cj0KCQjw97SzBhDaARIsAFHXUWAaaE2dl9IGmxI25lUI8E6qqCd93IfN89LCJCbOW2Upurb4q0wnpE8aAg4uEALw_wcB

Well I got to cleaning it up and I'm gonna hopefully have it swapped by tn, once I we figure out this brake thing I’ll get the right rebuilt kit. In the meantime, I realized my non c clip Dana 35 has cooling fins, 10 inch drums and 1 3/4” pads, while like I said, the d44 has 9 inch drums with no fins, and 2.5” pads. Note the Dana 35 came off a Cherokee as well, not sure the year tho. In the pics the one inside is the Dana 35 and the one outside is the Dana 44. In like the 3rd to last pic I did find a code on the passenger side backing plate. Its hard to make out, looks like maybe “BH dq24”