SatiricalHen

His prices are all over the place some things he wants pennies on the dollar for, some things he wants an arm and a leg for. I’m someone who is going Saturday if you want me to have them ask or pull it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The big issue for me is only having an apartment. I have no where to put things. If someone wanted it I’d have no problem pulling it and hanging onto it for a week or something, but I can’t just pull all the cool stuff I see Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This here is an interesting thing Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If someone gives me an early 231 I’ll gladly take it apart. I just don’t have any transfer cases older than 1999. If this was a 1999 I would feel very confident saying throw it in neutral and tow it. I guess one could study the exploded diagrams of the 2 cases. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I kept the fly wheel when I did my clutch because it looked fine, but every once in a while it’ll do the shudder thing, but I usually can drive out of the shudder. Now that I’m thinking about it I’m not really sure how I get it to stop shuddering it’s just a muscle memory type thing. I know my clutch still has tons of life left so I just live with it. 95% of the time it doesn’t do it and the 5% of the time it does it is usually reverse so maybe when I have free time and spending money I’ll replace the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate, but till then I’ll just keep rocking it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn’t read every post in this, but figured I would share my ax-15 swap experience. I got the ax-15 and crossmember together. The bellhousing I took off of an nv3550. I used the second set of holes, kept the plate in the floor the same, and my ba-10 driveshaft worked. I ran into no clearance issues anywhere. If you didn’t swap the pilot bearing out and the input shaft isn’t being supported it will wear out the front bearing and/or break. 1975 cj 5 304 3 spd Pilot bushing is the correct inner and outer diameter to work with an ax-15 input shaft and fit in a 4.0 crankshaft. I’ve heard rumor of 2wd Cherokee rear driveshafts working for 4wd Comanches, but don’t take that as 100% fact. Honestly I guess I just had dumb luck with everything in mine working out like it did. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have not taken apart an early style 231, but as far as I know the lubrication system has not changed in them through the years. The tcase has a pump in it. The pump is driven off the output shaft which means if the rear driveshaft is connected and spinning the tcase is being oiled. If I were to flat tow my Jeep with a 231 tcase I would pop the tcase in neutral, trans in park and not think twice about it for any distance because as far as I’m aware it’s no different than if the Jeep were driving since it’s being oiled. That is my opinion on the matter and I might be wrong, but that’s how I would do it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve been really wanting some tube fenders so I can keep trees away from the body and keep some mud off the windows. I also want to do some more tube work in the front. I’ve been thinking tubes under the fender and out the headerpanel to a stinger or grill hoop of sorts so if it goes over the radiator doesn’t get smashed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t get the credit for the welds, I had the idea to tie it to the fire wall, to move some of the tubes and add tube to the inside, and to use the clamps on the a pillar, but I didn’t weld it. I can weld, but I had Tommy Glenn weld the cage for me. He’s a local fab guy who builds the ultra 4 chassis for Chris May. A) he knows what he’s doing as he’s been welding longer than I’ve been alive. B) I don’t have a welder strong enough for structural work C) if I had messed some angles up or spaced something wrong I would know about it and it would drive me crazy forever. It was very reasonable to have it all welded up, tube added and have some 2x6 added to my bumper Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The slider and the firewall Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pete said I should post something about my Cherokee. Well here she is in all her beaten glory. Got it back in 2013 bone stock. Now it has a 5.5” lift with RE coil springs, IRO leafs, Boostwerks shackles, and HD offroad no lift shackle relocation boxes. 4.6 stroker, bored TB, 4 hole injectors. XO-fab cage with extra tubes. 2x6 sliders which hold the air from my viair 444c compressors. PRP harnesses with stock Cherokee seats for now. Locked front and rear, d30 8.25, 4.56 gears front is sleeved and c gusseted. Probably missing stuff because I’ve done so much. Anyone want to know anything specific? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I also need some of those rubber triangles. I wonder if anyone has found a new replacement option for those Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got the Cherokee seats from a guy parting out Cherokees on marketplace. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’d appreciate that! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I tried to get a set of tiburon seats for my cherokee and they wanted like $35 a seat, then like $15 each for the brackets and then core charges and stuff and I just said forget it and got a set of Cherokee seats with adjustable headrest. The tiburon seats were nice, but not that nice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This can’t be the issue since it starts as soon as I touch the green wire off the starter relay to power. I’ve tested at the starter relay and the wire coming from the switch to the relay doesn’t have power when it’s acting up, I swapped ignition switches and that didn’t solve the issue so now I’m in the mindset that the issue is before the ignition switch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m assuming the issue is before the switch since the starter did not engage when I jumped the pins you recommended. I’m terrible at following wiring diagrams and such though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A/C is fun, I’ve installed an aftermarket system in a 1970 ford, and I converted my Comanche over to r134a using bits and pieces from here and there. It’s got the compressor, drier, and lines from a 95 Cherokee, but the expansion valve, evaporator and condenser from factory. When I get around to pulling the dash out it’ll end up with a full AC system from a 95(well new parts, but made for a 95 Cherokee), but at the time I was being cheap and lazy. It works well for what it cost. A/C stuff isn’t bad once you get past the initial thought of it. I can’t count the number of compressors and other AC parts I’ve replaced on cars by now. Might have a little issue with it being carbed sometimes they like to stall out when the compressor kicks on if they aren’t just right. Had a CJ come in one day that had aftermarket AC that would make it stall out when the compressor kicked in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And this is the reason why I haven’t gone into the factory wiring and ripped all the breaks when you touch it loom and redone everything. To neatly reloom and reroute things it would nickel and dime you with both time and money. Maybe once I get my other jeep back down here and have something else to drive I’ll start tearing into it. I’m very seriously considering cutting a PDC out of a Cherokee and wiring all the crap in my Comanche to it just to have things in one place, organized and better looking. Between the factory electric fan stuff, the headlight harness, and the relays in the “distribution center” I feel like it would end up a lot cleaner in my engine bay. Might fix some of the random electrical gremlins I can’t solve just by cleaning it all up.

Everything works as it should (as far as I can tell) except the power to trigger the starter relay. When you turn the key to the start position it kills power to everything as it should, when in the run position the clock and the blower are on as they should be. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well I put all the ignition switch stuff back up and back together and it started with the key again for a couple days, then today it didn’t start again. I popped the hood to jump the green wire like I normally do, but then I thought let me just look around for a second. There’s an absurd amount of wires connected to the post on the starter relay and right underneath it there are what looks like a bunch of bullet connectors for all of the wires. Well I grabbed them and gave em a lil jiggle jiggle and turn the key and it started, so either coincidence or that’s where my issue lies. I was heading to the library to get a lab report done so I didn’t investigate further, but hopefully this up coming weekend I may have time to actually see if they are connectors and if they are, clean or delete them. Currently I’m very seriously considering adding a late model PDC under the hood and sticking all the relays and such in there to clean things up/make adding extra items easier. In my 99 Cherokee I’ve added relays and fuses to the factory box, and I’ve added a cherokee PDC to a 4runner to power/fuse/switch all of the lights and accessories they added to it. They are very nice compact wiring solutions in my opinion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How to build a buggy without bending any tube Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I guess I need to get back up there and snag it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve been to the lkqs and they never have anything to spectacular. I only go there if they something I need. I like the old yards that don’t go through stuff very quickly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There was an overhead console and stuff at one of my local junkyards, but last time I pulled one no one wanted it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk