Swampy

That air tank location is pretty slick. I like it. Will you be running air connection to the rear bumper or bed?

I should redo my floor pans. will just add it to the to-do list. Also can't wait to see your truck painted, that media blasting came out great

I should probably get one

I know the wj swap works but all the swap write-ups I have seen involve using '99+ xj/tj unit bearings to retain the 5x4.5

Found on pirate. There went that idea I measured a TJ and JK knuckle. The 3 bolt wheel bearing pattern has 4.10" bolt spacing on both but that is the only similarity. The JK has bigger calipers so different bolt hole spacing (5.4" vs 5.75"), and the JK ball joints are further apart then the TJs (8 5/8" vs 8 1/4"), so they will not swap.

Side note got my electric fans wired up and installed. 1 pusher and 1 puller fan on each side of the radiator helps keep the temps way down. Also got the stereo to work. Radio stations do not work because I don't have an antenna. But throw a CD or connect an aux cable and music plays only from the pass side speaker will figure that out eventually.

I wired up the tail lights/turn signals. As far as 96 xj tail light wiring goes (from top to bottom pictured) xj side (left side of pic) to mj side (right side of pic) solid tan to brown w/white tracer = driver side turn signal blue w/red tracer to solid blue= running lights/parking lights white w/tan tracer to grey w/blk tracer= brake/stop lights When I first ran it like this I had all functioning lights except the passenger side turn signal. the hazards worked fine but not the turn signal. For the turn signal I had to find the pass side connector (inside the cab where the harness splits) and find the wire that was hot when the pass side turn signal was activated. I had to run an extra wire from the pass side reverse light socket to the passenger side turn signal power supply to get it to run properly. *simply cut and splice into the power supply for the reverse lights and run about 8-9ft of wire to the cab depending on routing* Currently ran along the pass side frame rail, will probably move it to the driver side at some point. This was me testing the wires to see which one had the power. As it turns out the tan wire w/ grn tracer was the turn signal power. don't worry the connection was soldered and heat shrink before final assembly. Final product (turn signals are now in the reverse light part of the housing) so yes currently don't have actual reverse lights

Gave the jeep an oil change today. Filter didnt want to come off by hand so I pulled out the stabby stick

Pulled this tid bit from NAXJA "The WJ hub has a flange offset of 2.11", the 01 Cherokee hub has a flange offset of 1.9 and the JK's is 1.9 as well. Assuming it has the same mounting lugs, the JK hub is the bolt pattern you want and the right flange offset. Note, though, that the JK uses a longer stub shaft and presumably it does so for a reason. It's either spline count, length thru the hub or length back from hub to U-joint or some combination and I'm not sure. I'd be really curious to see you use the JK hub, but I think the easier method is going to be wheel adapters. If you do pursue JK hubs, please post up results."

I guess I am just trying to figure out how to over come that

I ran a 10" fan. wired both fans(pusher and factor puller) to a 50amp realy, to a manual switch to turn on and off when I want.

I am just spit balling here. Would it be possible to convert front axle to 5x5 with wj unit bearing will doing the wj knuckle/brake swap? I have read different information on the interwebs saying you can run wj knuckles and wj unit bearings and be fine (as in without welding the metal spacer), I also read you need the spacer to locate the ujoint with the ball joints but with the sapcer xj stub shaft is too short to get the axle nut installed. Thoughts, opinions, comments? Planning a future axle build and the wheels I want are 5x5

I just finished installing this set up and it works wonders. Truck gets up to 210 and when I turn on the fans (5 min later) its in the 180 range

Well I got it done. Almost everything is ran through the oem mj harness. had to run an extra wire to make the pass side rear turn signal function properly. It is currently routed along the pass side frame rail but may extend the wires so it goes down the driver side frame rail with all the other wiring.

Dirt Bound did a rear spring conversion. If you do the rear coil spring conversion you will also have to 4 link the rear which is a process in of itself

If its the vents on the outer most sides of the dash then they go to the plastic "Y" defrost thing. You will notice there are two small protrusions on either side. The black tubes go attached there

Looks awesome. I hope moab is still in the cards??

Left side meaning driver side?

I actually have no idea if this is helpful or not. There are some very useful thread on how to do this. I took a somewhat different approach as I was swapping everything over from a '96 cherokee

Will do.