Swampy

Yes I do. trying to figure out wear to mount it permanently, but currently it sits between the driver door and the seat.

Was just curious if there was a 5 lug shaft available.

Does anyone happen to know the length of the axle shafts in a 98+ rodeo/passport rear axle?

Will look through this info. Thanks!

Your axle looks great. What do you have done to it and what tires are you running?

What would be a good match for a front waggy d44? 8.8? 8.25? Also does anyone have pics of an xj/mj with a waggy axle?

I have the boostwerks one as well. its essential the same thing. Now while these simplify the linkage there is one caveat. They have to be adjusted right, if they are too loose your shift lever in the truck will move but you won't actually be shifting the tcase. If its too tight it will bind. I did get stuck because of this. the linkage loosened up and the tcase popped into 2wd. Now with all that said i would still prefer these 1000x over the factory stuff. Just make sure to check your linkage when you do bolt checks on your rig.

I didnt even realize there was one in Orlando

Yeah I think I might have been infected with something.

Well obviously, don't have funds for a winch quite yet.

This is by far my favorite pic of my dear Wendy lol

I didnt think starting a new thread would have been helpful so lets continue the conversation here. Would a tj44 be up to the task of 37s? I know it would have to be built but with 30 spline inners and outers, HD ball joints, truss kit and chromo shafts it should be well built right? I know Jantz has a kit to put jk44 ring and pinion into a standard 44 housing, so that would definitely help gear strength. the truss and a beefy diff cover should help with deflection.

I like the pedal feel and the way it works. I used the xj prop valve because I couldnt get the old lines off the MJ one but it has been working great. I have to double check my calipers because the truck was sitting for so long before I did the breaks.

I haven't jumped the wires on my 96 harness and it runs and starts up fine.

Thank you. Just a few more things to make the drive train reliable especially on 35s

I am a college student and the online classes are hard for us and I can only imagine for the younger kids. In Florida most schools are open and have students. My mom is a teacher and she has said that if one kid in the class has covid, the whole class gets sent home for quarantine.

I have been looking at the metalcloak dual rate coils they look great, just not sure how they work. Also a note tj coils will produce anywhere from .5-1" less lift on an xj than stated. Generally it is said that its about 1" less. For further reference fill out your signature with specs of your truck. If you search around you will find some desert runner type builds and I'm sure they will be able to help answer more questions.

It will work. I used a '96 auto xj to swap my jeep, used all the wiring for the xj and it runs and drives fine with my ax15

https://www.hiredgunoffroad.com/product/american_iron_ball_joint_delete about $500 for both sides and you replace the ball joint with a metal bushing and a huge bolt

Sorry to bring this up but for possible future reference you can add ball joint eliminators to jk axles which helps eliminate another possible failure point

Not sure how well you see them here but these are the sliders from @krustyballer16

passenger side turn signal is what it solved. I had hazards when I spliced the tail light connector but no turn signals. Had to run an extra wire to separate the turn signals and I ran it to the pass side harness in the cab.

Revolution gear and axle

90% of that year the jeep was sitting as I tried to fix the fire damage lol

I had a 2.5l on 35s and the biggest help was regearing the axles. I went from 3.55 to 5.13s. Now I also did an engine swap on my jeep. I swapped a '96 4.0l in place of the 2.5l and did it all for around $250 all said and done (including stuff like new oil, coolant, motor mounts, thermostat, spark plugs, etc)