kastein

Yeah the easy way is to remove that plastic clip that goes down the center of the connector. The pins just drop out afterwards as I recall, or might need a little x-acto or dental pick attention. The stock MJ / 96-down XJ door panels are annoying to get off - mine were slightly water damaged so the fiberboard was soft and some of the plastic push-pin things pulled out of it. It's easiest to remove using a putty knife or two, or a body clip removal tool.

I've had mine up to 100 a few times, handles great. Never gone much past that though. I'm nowhere near flooring it when I hit 100, and it'd probably help if I closed the windows and removed/opened the tailgate.

:eek: omg :eek: Good lord I would never take my vehicle back there again. When I worked at a chain quicklube (Valvoline) we did in fact fire people who did crap like that... it got expensive fast when we had a new retard working. One guy was dumber than paint and even though he'd been told multiple times, continued to use oil filter removal pliers to install new filters. We kept an eye on him as much as possible but once in a while he managed to sneak one by us, after two cars came back with mangled filters that let most of the oil out on the road, he got canned. We did in fact see a LOT of vehicles that'd been to jiffy lube with twisted-off or stripped drain plugs. They may not even tell you and simply install what's called a "last-chance plug" to get you out the door - this amounts to a molly bolt, two 1" round pieces of rubber sheet, some fender washers, and a machine screw. Whenever we found one of those on a vehicle we'd show the customer and ask them where they went last... it was usually jiffy lube.

Depends on your meaning of "up" :dunno: to me, the sky is up

Yikes :ack: I wonder why the passenger side is always worse? More slush/potholes/crap getting kicked up maybe?

This is the front axle that came in mine: So you might... but might not :eek: mine spent its first few years in Alaska and then moved to Massachusetts.

Yep... I got one parked across the street at the empty strip mall and another one across town on a public street, just gotta remember to move them every day or two :D

2360, that thing has some horrible skin cancer :eek: GRAB THOSE TAIL LIGHTS! At least just stash em till someone needs em, they don't make em anymore! Tightened up the flexplate bolts... it doesn't sound like my pistons are trying to escape from my engine anymore

Comanche ones are different from Cherokee ones, that I know :( Comanches use a metric thread (I want to say M10-1.0 or M10-1.5 but I am not sure) while Cherokees use a 3/8-16 UNC thread. When I dropped my tank I cut the straps, pulled the bolts intact, then cleaned them up with a wire wheel, hit them with heat and penetrating lube and the nuts popped right off. Cleaned them up the rest of the way and reused with new nuts+washers. And my MJ is probably rustier than any other on here except maybe Jakeman17's or Wwildman's :eek: I know this won't help you now that yours are already broken but it's useful info for anyone reading the thread.

You can actually get flare plugs at NAPA for the double invert flare fitting, that's probably the better way to do it since it doesn't involve an o-ring and is a metal to metal cone seal instead of a "boogered up end of bolt to cone via o-ring" seal, I keep a couple of 3/8-24 UNF invert flare plugs (and spare rubber lines) in my center console and trail kit so I can plug up a broken line and limp home if I have to.

GREAT point, and sounds like the actual problem. I forgot that there were two common points between the brake/fuel delivery systems on the MJ (grounds and vacuum) - most of the tech info I have learned is XJ specific :nuts:

X2, and throw the old one in the back of the garage as a spare if it's in semi decent shape still.

They'll call it a fuel pump ballast resistor probably. It is a 1 ohm 20 or 30 (forget) watt power resistor, if you can't get one from them, buy one from an electronics supply house or just splice the two wires together and forget about it like I did. So far I've done approx 20 thousand miles and counting without it and everything works great. Have you checked for vacuum leaks? My only guess is maybe your fuel pressure regulator isn't getting a good solid vacuum unless your brake booster is pulling some vacuum as well, not sure though, this is me thinking out loud / talking from you know where.

been there before... except not related to either party. I was the only sober friend within driving range who could show up and rescue a good friend of mine from his psychopath girlfriend. She had gone to bed sick and insisted he join her, then some friends called up and he snuck out to hang out with them (all mutual friends of both of theirs, and mine) and figured he'd sneak back in afterwards. Well, she woke up and he wasn't there, so she worked herself into a righteous/histrionic rage and prepared for his return. When he got back he found half his belongings had been thrown out the window into the parking lot, some onto people's cars, and the rest had been hurled out of their room into the living room, and she was so worked up she couldn't even string a coherent sentence together, and mostly focused on screaming incoherently at him while saying that he needed to leave now and never come back, but also that he needed to immediately remove all his stuff from the place... while trying to push him out the door. By the time I got there, she was even angrier and wasn't even making words anymore (she's a real piece of work, let me tell you) and so we mostly focused on a semi-organized and rapid retreat from the living room into the hall carrying as much of his stuff as we could, then locked the door and loaded everything into my jeep... finally got it all carried to his place a few blocks away and unloaded and what do you know? she comes flying up the street in her car, blocks my jeep into the driveway, and insists that he get in the car and go back with her. yep. she's fricken insane. Sadly he complied and they're still together two years later, and still having episodes like this every few months, fortunately by this point he's ready to bail out and we've been slowly moving his stuff out of their shared place and into his new place in a town 30 miles away where no one but him, me, and my brother know the street address, one of these weekends we're gonna pull out all the stops while she's gone, grab everything else he owns and just disappear. He's pretty tired of it by now.

Are you sure it's 1/4"? I seem to recall it being a 6 or a 7 mm bolt. If you don't mind going the "path of no return" route, you can use a sawzall to cut away at the connector body till you can get at the head with a pair of vice grips. Disconnect the battery first!

Yikes, Wildman, I think you can fit 35s at stock height on that thing :rotf: should look way better with the new bed! drove it to work... MjAllTheWay I'd :no: you about doing that but looked down and realized I was doing 90mph this morning, accelerated to pass someone and didn't even think about it, I love this thing, I still have my spare drivetrain and engine hoist (figure half a ton of stuff) in the back and it didn't even drop out of overdrive to hit 90 on flat ground.

I've seen a few on the road around me - a silver one drove right by me in Worcester a few months ago! I was too busy being shocked to wave. Saw a black one with a plow frame on the front down near Foxboro a while ago - apparently one of the other CC guys (forget username) probably knows the guy. Other than that, I'm about the only one... there are a few CC members in CT but I haven't seen them on the road yet. Three MJs have gone to the you-pull-it I haunt in the last 6 months though, I've got most of the important-ish parts off them, figured it was me or the crusher. They were a red LWB 88 (Pioneer I think) with terrible rot, column shift (didn't have time to pull this :(), and 4x4, a blue SWB 88 (Sportruck) with terrible TERRIBLE rot, a manual trans, and 4wd, and a really really nice black SWB 92 (!) with almost no rot (just around rear wheel wells as usual), manual trans, 2wd, etc. I was extremely sad to see the 92 there, it had minor repairable front end damage, if the junkyard had let me buy it whole I would have. Instead I bought the A/C delete setup (passed on to another NAXJA member), tail lights, height sensing valve, rear fender flares, rear tailgate, and bedliner. The bumper was getting kinda rotten at the bottom edge so I didn't pull it, in hindsight I should have. EDIT: oh yeah... there was the black SWB w/manual last fall that got killed by C4C. I was PISSED to see that one go, had I realized I would be buying an MJ in the near future I would have bought the bed off it, it had no rot and only one significant dent. I bought the headliner out of it, it had barely separated at all. Wish I could find and damage the person who sent it to the yard in exchange for being shafted by the feds.

I'd test the brake cleaner on a spare fuse panel (I know you gotta have one somewhere!) and see if it melts it, just to make sure. If it doesn't, hose it down with that, then follow with electrical cleaner as soon as it's dry since that usually has oxidation removers and some sort of light oxidation prevention oil in it as well.

you can test it yourself, make sure the cooling system is full, run it up to pressure, and look for leaks! Can be hard to see leaks on the fan side but you'll probably see SOMETHING.

Can't top that, but I have a 3000 dollar (at least, I never added up the bills that came AFTER I got to that number) dana 30 LCA mount. Wear your safety goggles while using the angle grinder, guys! :ack: :doh:

Was the blower on? My bet is the blower control switch, it's known for going up in smoke but usually doesn't cause that kind of havoc, they're more of a whimper than a bang generally. On a 20 year old truck it doesn't even take something that could blow a fuse really, a few sparks landing in a very dried out piece of sound dampening jute padding or something and it's all over.

All hail the mighty 2.5L Low Output engine!

1 - 8?-96 will fit. Even 97 and later ones will fit if you don't mind modifying the location of the latch strike pin, JP mag has an article on it. 2 - sawzall, phillips screwdriver, and a pair of channel lock pliers. Phillips screwdriver is for removing the kick panels and trim to get at the wiring, sawzall the hinges on the body side of the pivot (body's gonna get crushed anyways, and it leaves you with more parts on hand if you want to make two sets of removable door hinges), and the channel locks are for the roll pin in the door check bar. Tip here, either prop the door up with something fairly soft or have a helper hold it... and remove the check bar roll pin and wiring BEFORE you cut the hinges! If you don't have a battery powered sawzall yet, you should either get one (they are AWESOME) or bring a set of Torx bits, not sure what size the door bolts are but they're something around a T25 to T35 or so. I always just bring my whole set and try em till one fits. 3 - you want to pull up the carpet and grab the whole cross-body wiring harness between the two doors. All the connectors and junk can be unplugged behind the kick panels. If you get the cross body wiring harness, try and get it from a vehicle with power mirrors (if those matter to you.) AFAIK the door wiring harnesses have everything needed to get power mirrors working if they came with any power options, so get the cross body wiring harness with the mirror control switch and then pick up a set of power mirrors off the same vehicle... or if you want, grab some 97+ mirrors and bolt them onto the doors before you buy them.

Not an email, but... check this out! http://online.wsj.com/article/SB1000142 ... 09426.html :agree: :banana: :agree: :banana: :USAflag:

Dunno, that's a kind of a high price, I could build it myself for cheaper (or so I like to think) and have more fun that way. That steering wheel is truly catastrophic, also. If it was 2 grand and I was looking for a new one... definitely. Maybe a bit more.