whowey

87 - 90 Cherokee, or Comanche with the 4.0l

How close to Erie is this? We have to pick up our daughter in Harborcreek one weekend in Aug.

Considering the front half of the 'frame' isn't a frame at all, its classic unibody. The rear is at best a frame. Its boxed and thicker than the front, but still not quite a true frame. It is quite a process to repair the frame.

Actually ... it was his son's. After his son commits suicide, he gives the Comanche to Halle Berry. That means Halle Berry is a MJ driver and knows what a quality truck is 8) Miss Berry certainly shows the 'range' of her talent in that movie.

Congrats dude. Your place has to start looking like mine. I got a 91 given to me the other day with a bad tranny. I haven't gone and gotten it yet(no storage space) Add that to the LONG list of projects.

I agree with the warning, but not for the same reason. Pressing against the axle shaft like that isn't a good idea. The force you are putting it on, is transmitted all the way back, into the carrier and bearings. Not to mention into the U-joints, against the seals etc....

I just bought 26,000lbs of road rock(gravel) for the parking lot at work. Cost us a total of $85 delivered.

She had better be a really good looker, or spend her money on your Jeep parts. Cause I've been married for 12 years, and I still wouldn't watch that piece of crap.

I used plenty of PB blaster and 1/2" drive socket with breaker bar. I've got a 1 1/2 foot 1/2"drive torque wrench you think that would get it out? we only tried with minimal wd40 and a regular ole socket (sorry for the partial-jack) -nick First, NO don't use a torque wrench for breaking bolts loose. A torque wrench is a specialty tool that needs to remain accurate for it to do its proper job. Go to Harbor Freight or another deep discounter of tools and get a breaker bar. I think I payed $20 for a pair of 1/2 breaker bars from HF. One is 12" long, and the other is 24" long. And PB Blaster is easily 10 times the penetrant that WD-40 is. WD-40 is great when water gets into the electronics, but let chemistry work for you. BTW, I used a chisel, hammer, air chisel, slide hammer, alot of four letter words, and at least 3 beers the first time I removed a unit-hub.

IIRC, the 160 amp was 'available' but on police/fleet models. My ex-State of Montana XJ had one originally.

213-4524D Napa part number for a lifetime warranty unit. IIRC, its the 105 amp model. Cost $120, three years ago.

Maybe one of the 'long termers' here can post a link to Rob's Page, if its still active. He had a pretty complete description on there.

An AT TPS uses a square 4 prong connector, the MT one uses a flat three prong(think trailer plug)

Its your TPS. Classic symptoms of the TPS failing. Mine does the same thing. 88 4.0l. As it slowly worsens, messing with the throttle linkage won't work. Eventuallyt, it will just do it randomly. Also, it will eventually the idle will slowly work its way up on every stop. Remember a manual tranny TPS, and the Auto tranny one are different.

For the love of pete, PLEASE lose the stack.....

i took a stab at the engine, he said it was carbed and thats the only carbed engine i know for 80's jeeps besides the amc's 360 and 401 and one other but can't remember and wasn't sure which years the engines where used. The GM V-stink was carbed. The 4-cyl's were carbed in early 80's also.

I cut the end off my Pugeot shifter and welded on a new one to install almost that shifter knob. I have the one with the writing outlined in red on mine. Pretty cool, except when its 90 degrees outside and the MJ has been in the sun all day.

Yes, on a GM. No, on a Comanche. 4th digit is the engine. M is the 4.0l

Yes, also you can from the VIN code. Position 8, will be a letter rather than a number to identify it as a Metric Tonne. But, you could also order the HD axle under the truck without getting the Metric Tonne. In that case, stick your head underneath. If it looks like a bowling ball, its an AMC 20. Look at where the axle tubes come out of the center section. If you follow the edge of the center section up towards the top, DANA put a number on it to identify the axle. A 35C will be cast into Dana 35's and a 44 will be cast into Dana 44's.

-Go to a free hosting site like picturetrail.com -Fpllow their instructions for uploading pics -copy the addresses for the pics -come here and click on the IMG tag -paste the address -click on IMg again If you use picturetrail its even easier. Host the pics at picturetrail. Click on get image URL's. There will be on called 'image tags for forums'. Copy that link, post it here. Pic will show.

No, my 88 with the 242 has regular old joints. Gotta go with Jeff here. Early XJ, with the full time case. BTW, my ZJ with the 249(full-time) has CV joints on the front axle.

I corrected the transmission information. Someone should add a piece about the transfer cases.

I helped a friend put his on. WOW!!!!! That was a ton of work. There are a ton of brackets to drill holes for and align. Make sure you have any T-case stuff done before you put it on. That bellypan/mount assembly they use makes any work a pain. Make sure you read all the directions FIRST. There are a couple of places they aren't clear enough, and if you don't read the next steps you can really botch things.

The langauge is either Spanish or Portugese. So I would bet its somewhere in South America. Maybe Fernando will see this and can shed some light on it.

I've got a real paper copy. Its certainly worth printing all 112 pages. I don't think my boss would notice, with the 4 or 5 reams of paper our Customer Dis-service people waste a day.