whowey

In the simplest terms.... He won.

Wonder if it has been in the area its entire life?? that tailgate sticker is from Bryden's in Janesville.

I don't know jack about Ham radio's, but took the test, and got 25 out of 35 (fail, but only by one answer). :smart: I actually missed a question somehow, but when I finally saw it (on the results page), I would've gotten that one wrong anyway. :doh: :dunno: I like the idea of having a HAM radio in your Jeep, but what good is talking to some guy in Albania, when you snap an axleshaft in the woods of Western Mass? :D The services that are mostly used by folks with Technician liscenses, are much shorter ranged. 2 meters and 70 centimeters are the two most common ones. Both of these have more limited range with the type of equipment you would have in a rig. A good 2 meter rig will have a range of somewhere around 25-30 miles without access to a repeater and a 70 centimeter rig will have a range of 15-20 with one. Now access to a repeater changes the equation, but in most cases that really isn't a factor when talking about wheeling conditions.

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Three little words: "Oh" + "My" + "Gawd" Centrifugal force? Centrifugal weights? And you were told this by a mechanic in a Jeep dealership? Man, that's one dealership you don't EVER want to let touch your vehicles. The Trac-Lok differential (it isn't "positrac," Positraction -- or "Posi" for short -- was a GM registered trade name) does use clutches, but there aren't any centrifugal weights. The clutches are pre-loaded by springs. The default condition is that the clutches are engaged. They stay engaged until/unless the torque difference from one side to the other exceeds a certain level, at which point the clutches slip and allow the differential to work as a ... differential. When the friction modifier wears out, the clutches should not make a grinding or crunching noise. There will be some banging/clunking going around low-speed corners as the clutches release abruptly. The purpose of the friction modifier is to smooth out the release so you don't hear that banging/clunking. "Centrifugal weights" ... Bwaahaahaahaahaa :rotf: :doh: :dunce: Woah Horsey! I just call them as I hear-em! I have no idea how the special crap inside this fat ball of gears works. I appreciate all the "schoolin" I can get ! Since I took the cover off yesterday and found no metal shavings, I tried to start on the axle shafts but this particular model does not have the 5/16 6 point bolt holding the pin in, it has some extremely small reverse torx head bolt. I have read that this particular critter is put in with red threadlocker, so I probably should not strip the head. Trouble is, no store around here seems to have the tool, so I'm back to square one. :headpop: Ah well. Thanks for the responses. I don't think that is a torx head....The ones I have had to remove have been 1/4 inch 12-point bolts, or that roll pin.

I had an axle making a crunching noise at the outside... turned out it was pieces of brake hardware flopping around in the drum.

If it provides the needed cash to develop real significant Jeeps again.. than its worth what it does...

More importantly... does the rental house.. have a rental garage???

Me neither... big 'ole jet airliner... come carry me away....

This is actually not that rare...ZJ's had that crappy 2-piece design on the factory rotors. That is almost exactly how they fail. I had two sets do that before I got aftermarket ones that aren't that design. The first time I had it.. I pulled the outer ring off and layed it on the floor, and then sat there trying to figure out how to pull off the center hat... Finally it struck me... grab it pull it off... duuhhhh....

I find it soooo awful that it becomes funny again... But as I type this.. I'm watching Billy the Exterminator... this is really a POS show...

It DID have the 249.... what happened with the swap????

Pat and I were talking about this the other night... any days except May 8th and May 16th-28th.

we don't have that here... we get bent over by the state in every other way imaginable.. so I am surprised they skip that...

:needpics: :needpics:

I can't remember if it was you or someone else who asked if I knew the additive levels of this oil, but I found a 5000 mile used oil analysis on the Premium Blue. Molybdenum 40 Calcium 1153 Phosphorous 1022 Zinc 1276 All of these are expressed in parts per million... Moly, Zinc and Phosphorous are the anti-wear additives were are concerned with. Calcium is a cleaning agent. Now these numbers are from a Ram truck, so they are a little skewed compared to our engines. But this oil looks really good at 5k miles. Don't waste the $14 a bottle for an additive you don't know exactly what is in it.

I worked for Fed-ex Custom Critical for awhile... they will take car shipments. But it will be VERY, VERY expensive.....

So much are you spending per quart on your current oil?? Because that stuff works out to $2.33 per quart of oil. Take you current oil, and add that amount to the cost. Because I can almost guarantee I could find an oil carrying enough Zinc and Phosphorous with having to add any additive that may or may not do what you need it to.

How much is a bottle of that???

That cab was produced by Budd.. It was used by a number of manufacturers. I believe that particular one is actually an FMC. But Ford did use it also.

I just realized the other day... that box of round headlight buckets and retainers... they took all the round headlight bulbs out of it. Retainers? Or just bulbs? Rob L. The retainers and buckets are in the box... every last one of the bulbs is gone. When I pulled the box out of the attic it had probably half a dozen bulbs in it also.

I just realized the other day... that box of round headlight buckets and retainers... they took all the round headlight bulbs out of it.

Rob has been looking for a bench grinder...

Dr. Haas is a very talented man... But when reading his studies, remember he is applying them to high performance, high compression, roller rocker motors. You are applying the information to a low performance, low compression, flat tappet motor. I wish he had published more information regarding his Expedition. Its requirements are closer to what we need rather than his Ferrari collection. Low detergent oils are intended for limited usage. They are designed for motors that see brief periods of hard usage between changes, like circle track racers or drag racers.

SOPUS.. the maker of Pennzoil,Quaker State, Super tech(China Mart), Shell and several other brands also owns/produce a bunch of other additive products. One of them being Slick 50. I have a sneaky feeling that Z-7 additive in that Pennzoil oil is probably one of those additives. SOPUS has been aggressively marketing some of those additives by combining them with their other products. One of the biggest concerns with single weight oil is going to be cold weather. If your local temperatures are cold enough, a single weight oil may keep an engine from even turning over due to its high viscosity.