Rymanrph

Yeah, I'm not happy with this company at all. They are a very very popular company in this area that does some very expensive work on all kinds of vehicles, but honestly, I don't know how they stay in business. They take forever, don't return phone calls, do work without authorization and on top of all that, they're really expensive. A while back I asked them how much they would charge to re-gear my Wrangler and he didn't want to give me a number. It was as if he would do the job and then count how many hours it took and then charge me. I've only had little jobs done there and I've run into several issues. I can't imagine giving them my brand new JK and having them put in a custom long arm kit, wheels tires, etc. (which is what they were doing last time I was there). For the good news, my seats are done. I picked them up at lunch today and they look awesome. I'll post some pictures tonight after I get home.

I have a lifted TJ as well that is my off-roader, so I hadn't planned on doing much more than some dirt trails here and there. Besides, I've got plenty of tire rubbing in the front that has to addressed just for daily driving so off roading I know wouldn't go so well right now. I've got new B-pillar lights on order and I'm getting my seats reupholstered; they should be done tomorrow (fingers crossed). I'll definitely post up some pictures when I get them back in the truck.

I'm not crazy about the spare on the back, but the bumper and the execution are excellent. Good job.

It just said I have a truck that I'm going to be bringing home, but nothing about purchasing it (even though you're probably right). I drove 4 hours to get mine, but 10 hours is a long drive to buy a vehicle. Good luck. The last guy who asked about taking his truck on a long trip didn't make it (in the truck).

Just curious, how did it get 10 hours from home?

Definitely post up pictures and a review. If they work, I'll most likely get a set to replace my worn out originals.

It is kinda expensive, but man does it work. I think its best for stripes that aren't exactly solid anymore. I couldn't use a heat gun because I'd be pulling it off a little piece at a time.

Where does it go? Got any pictures of it in the truck?

I called and placed my order today with Euramtec. The lady that usually handles the orders wasn't there today, but the man I spoke to seemed very excited that I found their information on a car forum. They list on Ebay now (cheaper if you just call though): http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Universa ... ccessories They're only $8 each and he charged me $6 for shipping, so I got them both for $22 shipped. He said they actually bought the rights from the original French company for these lights and manufacture them now in Michigan. Its nice to be able to buy something built in the USA.

The 4wd swap is a success!!! I drove it to work today and I'm thrilled. The transfer case output seal (and maybe bushing) needs replacing and for some reason my exhaust is rattling against the transmission cross member, but otherwise everything works great. I'm having my seats recovered and I've very excited about those. Pictures coming in about 2 weeks.

Not mine: http://charlotte.craigslist.org/pts/1841165996.html "I have a 1990 Jeep Comanche I am parting out. its a 40.L with and Inline 6, 2wd 5Speed. I have motor, transmission, body panels, interior etc. Please call 843-680-2400 for parts and pricing information. I do offer shipping and accept all major credit cards."

I've always kinda wanted a third gen camaro. I found a great looking one in town, but it was automatic and they wanted $7k.

I don't know how to embed videos, but here's a link: This is the first time its moved under its own power since I put in the new transmission and transfer case. I probably wouldn't have posted a video, but it just sounds cool without an exhaust right now. I couldn't actually drive it because I have no rear drive shaft; the slip yoke is just stuffed into the back of the transfer case. I put a new fitting on our custom slave line and that seemed to fix the leak. We bleed the line and it seemed to be ok, but I really couldn't tell without really driving it.

When do you expect to get your rear bumper?

I don't have very many original ideas tied up in this truck, just borrowed from others. The floor is peel and seal roof flashing. The sides and roof is a reflective insulation (Reflectix I think is the brand name). As to the noise insulation properties, I can't say. I haven't been able to drive it yet. Today I'm going to try and finish fixing the slave line and my new rear drive shaft should be here by the middle of the week, so hopefully it will be mobile some time this week. I'll post up comments once I can drive it, but I won't really have anything to compare to. The only driving I've done in this Jeep is when I brought it home and I made a 350 mile trip with virtually no interior (and still a couple holes in the floor), so any insulation will make it quieter than I'm used to hearing. On a plus note, I got my new fog lights wired and was able to use a factory switch. I also pulled several more switches from the pull a part to use for future lighting (roll bar, back-up, more?).

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought we weren't supposed to resurface our flywheels?

I was looking at the bushwacker website and noticed that their part numbers for the 2 dr. XJ are the same as the MJ, so it got me thinking. Would rear flares from a 2 dr. Cherokee ('97+) fit on a MJ? The mismatched flares is one of the big things keeping me from doing the front end swap.

Here is the transfer case all painted and in the truck (need to paint the slip yoke): And here is transmission: I've gotten it kinda dirty messing with it, so I'll need to clean it up and take some better pictures later. Don't you just love the blue RTV around the oil pan plug the PO used? The front drive shaft is in now, but I have a leak with one of the fittings on the slave line, so I have to replace that tomorrow with a different fitting and bleed the slave again.

It's nice to be treated nicely. Got any pictures of the setup for your slave?

Thanks for the input. I went out and measured everything again yesterday and then made a call to Tom Woods. They are sending me a shaft that is 42.50" which is only a 1/4" longer than stock, so I feel like everything should work out just fine.

Everything is assembled, now I'm just dealing with the frustration that is both drive shafts. I had the front one rebuilt ($148 and that was just for the center bearing and assembly; I had already purchased the U-joints). When I went to install it, I found that the grease fittings on the U-joints kept it from rotating properly, so I have to replace those. I wanted to have my 2wd rear drive shaft cut down, but apparently its some strange tube within a tube design that the 4wd shop here in town didn't want to touch. He had another shaft he said that he would cut down and re-weld for $135, but he wasn't going to balance it. My other option was to have a drive shaft shop a couple towns over do it, but then it would be $135+ the cost of the used drive shaft. For $189, I got a brand new drive shaft from Tom Woods with U-joints, so it will be here either Wednesday or Thursday. I'm hoping to put the front shaft in today and crank the truck up for the first time in a couple months just to see if everything works.

I'm completing my 4wd conversion and I have a question about the rear driveshaft length. According to the sticky, a stock length shaft for my 6 cyl, MT, short bed, rear 8.25 should be 42.25". I have a 3" lift and when I pull the slip yoke out of the transfer case to where it originally set (not sure how far out that is), I measured 42.75". My question is this, how far should the slip yoke be pulled out from the transfer case? I obviously don't want to get one that is too long cause I'll bottom out, but I don't want one that's too short and pull too much of the slip yoke out. The reason I ask is the local shop seems to think that the slip yoke should be pulled out about an inch and that he has a 41.75" shaft he thinks will work. The slip yoke is plenty long, but is a half inch difference (smaller than stock on a 3" lift) going to make enough difference? If I buy the shaft he already has it will be much cheaper than shortening another shaft.

I wonder how you get around that. I've seen the write ups on the door striker swap; how difficult was it to do? By the way, nice truck.

You have to post pictures of that. I'm really curious as to how well it works.

I converted to 4wd and added a 8.25 in the rear while also installing a 3" lift. This chart says the stock length I would need is 42.25". If I pull the slip yoke out to the length it protruded before the swap and measure middle of u-joint to middle of u-joint I get 42.75". I'm assuming my 3" lift is what causes this discrepancy. Do I need that extra 1/2" or will the stock length be fine?