Rymanrph

I found a '97 XJ 4.0 2wd auto that I thought about buying for a parts vehicle (front clip, doors, interior, motor, etc.). Currently I have a '90 4wd with a '95 transmission and transfer case. Can I mate the 5 speed to the newer motor without any problems? I didn't know if I'd run into any problems with the ecu and wiring harness. I wouldn't mind having an auto, but its only 2wd, so I'd rather just save the money and keep my 5spd.

This is how I wired mine: Red goes on the larger spade connector, the striped wire goes in the middle and the solid black goes on the smaller spade on the end.

My passenger side high beam doesn't work, so I need to replace it, but I've noticed how lousy the factory lights really are. Does anyone have any advice on the best/safest way to upgrade? I know there are brighter options, but what about the wiring? Also, are the 84-96 lights the same as the 97-01? I know the turn signals are different, but are the main units the same or different? I'm considering doing the '97+ conversion on the front and I don't want to spend money on new lights now, if they won't work when I upgrade to the newer style front end.

I keep going back and forth on that one. I like the look, but I don't like how the front fender flares don't match the factory rear flares on Comanche. Also, I'm not sure how hard its going to be to find all of the pieces. My pull-a-part has only had 2 '97+ XJs all year and neither had a full front clip. We'll see.

I put some Hella driving lights on mine (I thought I was ordering fogs...). These are the micro ones, but they're very bright, including a great installation harness and they're very cheap (about $50). I'd suggest staying with squared off lights since there aren't really any round edges on your truck. Best shot I have:

My steel wheels were sticking out to far (not enough backspacing) and I didn't want to trim the fenders, so I bought some TJ Ravine wheels. They weigh 10 lbs less a piece and I think they look pretty good. Its a completely different look, but I'm happy so far. Here's a comparison shot to show how far its come since Christmas (just for fun): Still got a long way to go. Future plans include: '97+ doors with power windows New windshield with '97+ rubber molding Shortening the height and width of the roll bar (for better fitment) Spot lights and maybe a reverse light for the roll bar New rear bumper Tilt steering column with intermittent wipers Window tint Lots of body work Paint Bed liner Subwoofer?

I find this rather amusing because if cops started handing out tickets for that here in NC, that would be all they do. What's the reason for this type of law? Oh and I am changing out my 15x8 wheels with 4" backspacing today for factory Wrangler rims specifically because of the fender rubbing. I have a 3" lift and I rubbed all the time. Putting a couple washers on the steering stops sits a whole lot better with me than hacking up my fenders.

It really depends on what components you get and where you get them from. I upgraded to a '95 transmission/transfer case, '97 dana 30 and a '01 8.25 all from a large chain junkyard with a warranty ($). Pull-a-part would be much cheaper. You'll need small pieces like new spring perches (depending on the axle), possibly a longer speedo cable (mine was long enough), the tc linkage and shifter. Your 2wd brake calipers won't work, so I ended up having to get new front brakes, shorter rear drive shaft (obviously you'll need a front shaft), etc. I got a lot of new components and total I spent at least $1k on converting to 4wd. You can do it for a lot cheaper though. I did my lift and swap at the same time and I'm glad I did. It kept me from having to do some of the same work twice.

Ok, since the track bar I'm using came from a '97 XJ, then that's what I'll ask for.

I need a bushing for my trackbar. I used the one that came with my '97 Dana 30. Autozone lists different part number for the actual track bar for a 1990 comanche and 1995 Cherokee and a 1997 Cherokee. They all weight different amounts as well. So, did the track bar change that much? The one for the comanche is about $20 cheaper than the Cherokee two. I don't need a new track bar, but I want to make sure I get the right bushing.

Why do all the brake work in the back if you're going to swap in a 8.8? Mine 1990 started out pretty similar to that about 7 months ago.

I have 4 Unique steel wheels (Discount Tire version of Cragar Soft 8s) that I'd like to trade for stock Jeep Wrangler Ravine wheels (03+ Wrangler wheels). The wheels are currently on my Comanche and will fit most Jeep applications (15x8 with 4" backspacing). These are Ravines: http://www.macnmotion.com/jeeprightquarter_Master.jpg My wheels are only a few months old with just a couple thousand miles and are in like new condition (also included are 4 new center caps), so I'd only like to trade for wheels with no rock or road rash. 704-807-2055

I always thought the good deals without phone numbers was just a scam to get your email address to put on some mailing list :dunno:

That's the one thing I like more about my 98 TJ instead of my 2000. The '98 had a normal key, but my 2000 has the sentry key and I really don't want to spend $80 on key. I've got a GM key for the ignition on the comanche and an AMC key that I can't figure out what it does (certainly doesn't unlock the doors, which I almost learned the hard way). I need to make copies of those.

That's Jr.'s XJ? I have pictures of it on my computer at work. We saw it at lunch one day. Didn't think to look around for anyone special though.

I have that shirt too. $5 at Wal-Mart.

When I installed the lift, I had it aligned, but didn't get a print out so I'm not sure if he adjusted the shims on the lower arms or not. I'm assuming the GC lower arms are the same length as the stock MJ arms, so I wouldn't "need" to get it aligned if I just swapped those out (assuming I put different wheels on).

I'm not married to these wheels and I'd probable trade for some good ravines or canyons. I'd rather not spend more money than I have to. If I could trade wheels, Grand Cherokee control arms would be much cheaper than new adjustable ones.

I've got 3" lift coils with 31" tires on steel wheels with ~4" of back spacing (I need to remeasure to be sure). I rub on the back side of the fenders (on the front wheels) when I turn on anything other than perfectly flat ground. I don't have a problem trimming some of the unseen metal, but I have some great new fender liners that I'd rather not hack up. Should I trim, get new wheels, get adjustable lower control arms to push the axle forward, lift the truck more? Here's a shot right after I put the lift on:

I thought the purpose of the RTI ramp was to keep all the wheels planted?

Read this thread: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=21565

I posted in another thread as well, but can someone tell me which wire goes where? I can't figure it out because my fuses keep blowing. I've got a red, solid black and a black w/ white stripe. *Figured it out: Red goes on the larger spade connector, the striped wire goes in the middle and the solid black goes on the smaller spade on the end.

Yeah, I hate ordering from them and after paying find out that what I bought is on backorder. They are owned by the same company as 4 Wheel Parts. I've had both good and bad experiences with them.

I put my new bucket seats in: Couple more in the build thread.

Got the re-covered seats today. Its a solid charcoal color on the back and sides and a lighter perforated gray on the front. Here is a shot of it outside of the truck. Its not quite this dark in person: Here's a picture without the flash: And here's one with the flash: The color isn't quite right in the flash picture, but it looks lighter than the nonflash picture in person. I was really impressed with the guy who did this. The first place I went quoted me $445 for just a solid vinyl and would take about 3 weeks. This guy did it in 2 days after the fabric came in (one week total), with the two-tone for $300. Still a good chunk of change, but after redoing the whole interior, I'm glad I spent the extra to have seats to match.