Rymanrph

I need one too if you're willing to part with both. I think they just pop out, but not very easily.

I don't get my money back, they just replace the unit. So I guess I can replace the seals and have it flushed, but if something happens to it, I'm out the money I paid to have it flushed plus the time pulling the tranmission, driving an hour back to yard to take it back and get my new one and then reinstalling. Course, if I don't flush it and it fails, I have to do all that again and I don't get a new transmission. I guess I can just compare the cost of a flush with the cost of getting a new unit. Separate question, I left my torque converter on my engine, but the new trans came with one. What should I consider when trying to decide which one to use?

A friend of mine works for a company that makes auto carpets. He gave this to me recently. Apparently is wasn't good enough to sell, so they had several just left over. One side is carpeted with Jeep stitched in and the other is a heavy rubber with Jeep molded in. He thinks it was for the new Grand Cherokee, but isn't sure. What should I do with it? Its too nice and too wide to put in the back of my TJ and there is no where in the MJ for it.

Anyone? Pardon the pun, but I'm a little in the dark :idea: .

I'm picking up my new (to me) AW4 and 242 this Saturday. They come with a 6 month warranty, but it only applies if I flush them and replace all the seals. I've heard that flushes for higher mileage transmissions isn't a good idea. If you were putting in JY units, what would you do? Would you flush them and do seals, seals only, or just new fluid?

I like it. I'd probably consider trading my NOS chrome bumper for it seeing as I haven't taken it out of the box yet. I don't think I'd lay out over $500 for this one though.

Not that I can tell. Course, its pretty dark in my garage, so I'll have to check again. It seemed to work really well for me. And like you said, its nice to be able to move the whole engine with all the accessories. That definitely saved me a lot of time.

So... got the engine out: on its way to its new home: and here it is in the MJ (and yes, that's the starter in the battery tray): Its sitting a little high in the front cause I don't have a transmission connected to it (so no trans mount). I've got most things connected. I still have to run the fuel lines, fab new lines from the brake master to the proportioning valve and several other small things. The only casualty of moving was the dipstick. The pull handle broke off, how I don't know. I got the gas tank out of the Comanche. My transmission and transfer case should be in tomorrow, but I won't be able to pick them up until Saturday. Progress continues. It won't be too much longer.

I think I'm going to try the autopals and upgraded harness. Any recommendations on bulbs? I saw on the ebay link for the autopals they include H4 bulbs with a couple different options. I'm have no idea what wattage I need. I don't really want blue lights either, just something white and bright.

Good news: I got the motor in the truck (pictures tonight). I also ordered my 4wd AW4 and NP242 and I'll pick that up on Saturday. Tonight I will probably go ahead and order my slosh tray-less gas tank and adapter ring and maybe my headlight upgrade stuff.

Do you care to share how much you paid?

I'd like to do that to mine, but I just can't justify the price over the DIY options out there.

Let's see. I prepped the XJ engine for removal (I'll pull it tomorrow), got a new motor mount in the Comanche and dropped the gas tank.

I'm going to use all of the XJ wiper stuff. My comanche wipers had so much slop in them, its just going to be easier to move every thing over. For the Fuse panel, I did a combination of things. I patched the hole where the antennae for the radio came through and then I use bolts and nuts on the top and a large thread bolt on the bottom. Where the bolt goes through is a pocket, so instead of drilling a hole through one piece of metal, spanning the gap and drilling through another, I just used a bolt that would thread in the sheet metal. I was going to cut the whole panel out of the XJ, but that seemed like too much work. I just put the kick panel on the fuse panel and marked where it needed to be then drilled my holes. The wiring is what has really slowed my progress, but hopefully I will have that sorted out soon. Yesterday I got the engine pretty much ready to pull from the XJ, but it was raining and started to get dark, so I couldn't finish. I pretty sure I'm going to do the new gas tank without the slosh pan and the Copperhead Fab adapter ring, so I need to go ahead and order those. At some point, I need to order my new 4wd AW4 and transfer case from the JY. I'm possibly considering a 242 so that I can use 4wd in heavy rains and the occasional snow, but I don't have any of the linkage for it, so I might just stick with the 231. We'll see.

That XJ looks pretty clean to strip. I didn't feel so bad about mine since it had been wrecked and the paint was shot.

I take it you're not using the XJ hand brake then? I didn't bother changing the heater box hole on the firewall (neither did go4lo or WoodKrawler, Lincoln or whatever his name is). This is his: Image Not Found

I still work out in the garage; I'm just not as comfortable as I'd like to be. I'm cold natured as it is anyway, so wearing thermals, a couple pair of socks and standing in front of the heater every 15 mins or so to warm my hands up is just not my thing.

x2. :thumbsup: comes in 4x8 sheets and can be had with the reflective aluminum on one side. The R value on the kit is 8; what is it on those?

Anybody use a kit like this? http://www.lowes.com/pd_331443-1722-GD1 ... insulation My garage is not very comfortable to work in during the winter. My thin metal garage door keeps my little heater from doing any real good, so I thought I might give this a try.

Low center of gravity.

and exclaimed, "I'm

Any more details you can provide? I'm in the same boat. I was searching through all the wires tonight and wasn't quite sure what direction to take. The XJ lights go back separately and the license plate lights are back there somewhere too, but the MJ rear harness doesn't split until right before the bumper. Where did you splice all your connections? In the cab and connect to the MJ rear harness or just before the lights in the back and bypass the MJ rear harness all together? A little more information can save me a bunch of time, so any input would be much appreciated. Thanks!

I had rear one custom made for my 4.0L/ax-15/231 shortbed with a rear Chrysler 8.25 (should be the same for the Dana 44). I'm swapping to an auto transmission, so it might be about an inch too long for me now. I only have about 1k miles on it. I'd want more than someone with a factory shaft, but I could certainly do better than new. The front shaft has room to slip, so is there a difference between the auto and stick?

I'm not against dropping the tank to swap the sender, so the tank without the slosh pan seems like a viable plan for me. However, I do have two questions: 1. How will not having the slosh pan negatively affect performance? Obviously there is a reason for having it in the first place, so what will eliminating it do? 2. Since the XJ tank is a different size, how will that affect the sender accuracy?

Our power went out at work yesterday, so I had some time to get things moved over from the XJ. On the interior I've got the e-brake and air bag controller swapped over. I've also moved over the interior wiring harness and I'm sorting through it. Here's a shot of what I've been able to accomplish in the engine bay: