ParadiseMJ

Well, that pretty much seals it. Pass, keep looking!

Yes indeed, they are riveted together. I used an angle grinder and a drill

I also scored some tweeters and a ZJ V-8 tie rod...that'll go on the truck, not the XJ.

It should...roughly. Measure: Bed Width & Length - OD vs ID. Cap front, from be to top of roof. Check the front ANGLE of the cap, we all know angle of the MJ cab - 90*...maybe 89*. The height of the cab is 21.5" or dang close to it. S-10 caps are only 20" Make the same measurements on the truck. Ba da bing, there's your answer.

The Jeep BEFORE The interior - BEFORE The good: no rust...the bad...no interior. It had a bench seat but I got rid of that right away and went on the search for XJ 2 door buckets I needed new seats. So I got these. Rockers. They mount about 2" higher Old Seats Like I said I sttled at first but I stayed on the quest for the 2 door or MJ seats, no luck. Then I stumbled on a 2 door in the junkyard. The seats were FILTHY!! I scrubbed them down with Oxy-Clean and they look brand new, no rips, great condition. I traded this...for these. Then the mounting problem. On the old seats all I had to do was grind off the old XJ mounts and bolt on the MJ mounts from the crappy bench seat that it came with. Old bracket The sliders are different width. I wasn't sure of the year of the donor but it looked to be 96+ I was able to use the entire rear mount but had to cut & paste the fronts The Jeep AFTER I'm sure they had the same mounts as the ZJ, don't know of a ZJ 2 door. I do know that you can fab mounts for just about any forward folding seat from a Dakota or similar, even a 60/40 split seat would be cool.

It's not dark here either. Anyhoo, it's like 3/8" tubing, pretty much right under the driver's seat.

If it's an AW4, it doesn't need clutch fluid!!? Automatic. If you mean ATF (Dex) there is a DRAIN plug, but no "bleeder". Fluid is added thru the tranny dipstick If you mean clutch fluid (brake fluid) for an AX4/5 with a clutch, the bleeder comes out of the bell housing, driver side. Sorry no pic. Climb under, with a flashlight in the dark, take a look, it's not cold jacket here.

That sounds like a better plan. It looks tight but I'm sure you can get to it. Eagle, do you have a size? I had heard to use a trimmed down 1/2" fine thread with an o-ring on the bolt head...is that right? ...and does the brake fluid dribble out of the MC while it's un-capped?

Next on my list. Would I get an XJ prop valve at the junkyard or a parts store (i.e. are they available new?)

My yellow Duralast battery has been in my XJ for 5-6 years...it's got more stamina than I do, for sure. I found a few month old Die-Hard in my shop. Been in the plastic box since December, it reads 11.5. It's on the charger overnight...we'll see. Might not have to buy a new one.

Hey, check the cable above your passengers left foot. Move the Hot/Cold lever on the dash...does it move, or is it even attached?? OR...take out your radio and see if the vacuum "junction" behind it is intact and not leaky. OR...make sure your vacuum lines to the vac reservoir and the resrvoir itself are in good shape. Replace any questionable lines. Vacuum line is cheap. I always recommend my own version of a vacuum smoke test. Cigar...blow a puff or two into the main HVAC vac line. Watch the smoke, find your leak.

Problem found. Yeah, I kinda didn't want to put another POS battery in there but theres the warranty thing!! Might be worth it in the long run to just go and buy a GOOD battery. However, I have used WM batteries for years and no probs. I'm just happy to have narrowed it down. Fixed.

Ignition switch replaced - no change I whacked the starter - no change. I jumped it off my XJ - started right up, took off the cables, ran it for 10 minutes. Alt is charging at 14.5v. Shut it down for 30 seconds - Turn, click, dead. Bum battery - Wal-Mart warranty...only 10 mos old. Pick that up tomorrow...if it doesn't change I'll go break a bottle or something (after I carefully empty it).

Are all the ends hooked up? It goes from rubber to metal to rubber again. It's kind of a beetch to get to but try reaching up on top of the tank and seeing (feeling) if the hoses are hooked up to the vent/rollover valves. My plastic nipples had corroded and broken off right at the valve

It connects to your charcoal cannister to vent fumes from your fuel tank.

Yes, the one on the column. So the new ignition switch is in, old one has no signs of burns, but there is more corrosion than I'd like to see in an electrical connector. I've had it all on the charger all night just to make sure it was NOT the battery. It's sitting there waiting for me now, til I get off work. If it's not the battery, and not the ign. switch, I'll use the diagnostics that jimoshel posted. I hate to replace the starter but that looks like the direction I'm headed. The starter is pretty much the only piece and/or part that I hain't replaced in the whole building of this thing.

^^^this here good advice^^^ I need a helper for sure. No kids left for free labor. Connections are clean, brushed, steel to steel, dilectric grease. Grounded at the dipstick and firewall with #4 cable, additional ground at battery to fender well. All the cables are new-ish <1 yr. There are no loose connections. I'm going to swap out the ignition switch with a new one I already have...we'll see what happens.

I did get under there and whack the starter and solenoid a bit. Nuthin'. Voltage TO the starter and it not starting. That's what makes me think it's the starter, losing all power is what makes me think ignition switch.

88 MJ 4.0 Battery reads 12.6 v Starter relay to ground 12.6 v Starter to ground 12.6 v Turn key, relay clicks, then all power dead. No click, nothin', but I still get 12.6v all around. Is 12.6v not enough to turn it over. Starter or Ignition switch??? Both of unknown age. Alternator ~ newish! Battery 12.6v :dunno:

Well, having gone thru this myself I don't think he's talking about the knob. I mean really, if ya' can't figure out how to take the knob off...!! However, the squarish connector further down will come off with some heat to soften up the rubber and a good pulling. I hurried the process along a bit by jamming a screw driver and a piece of aluminum stock in there and working it loose. I put it back together with some RTV and just pushed it back in there. Still going strong.

Yeah but you have to modify them right? Brandon The bench seat only has one slider per side. The bucket seats have two per seat. Brandon - Yes, you have to grind off the old brackets and bolt new ones on. The only way that you would have to NOT modify them is to get bucket seats out of another MJ. It also depends on the donor seats...unless they have MJ brackets...you gotta modify!! Boots - The sliders are on the seat, not the bracket. My MJ had a bench...I took it out and "modified" the brackets (grinding & drilling) and mounted the bracket to the seat. I didn't like the "rocker" seats so I got some 95+ XJ 2 door buckets and mounted the same brackets on to the new seats. Really, the only modification was taking the old brackets off and bolting them to the new seat. All four sliders on the buckets work fine. Plus with the 2 door XJ seats, the seat folds forward. Now FINDING a two door XJ with decent seats has been my quest for almost 2 years...I put them in last weekend.

The mounting brackets from an MJ bench seat will work to mount the buckets too. Best fit, I'd hit up the yard.

OK I'm glad you said it.I'd seriously think about changing out your O2 sensor and checking your catalytic converter.

I had my wifes 07 Camry done all around for $175. My 02 Sentra commuter for $150. Same guy quoted me $100 for the MJ...dark for the back and lighter UV tint on sides. I would never try this myself. Just for the mere fact that 99% of home jobs that I KNOW of end up looking like crap after about 2-3 years.

Can't hurt replacing the t-stat (195*F).