kryptronic

Build sheet from Chrysler: Monotone Paint Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes 4-Speed Automatic AW4 Transmission Lock-Up Torque Converter Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System 230MM Front Axle 3.55 Rear Axle Ratio 175MM Rear Axle Tinted Glass Windows Tinted Windshield Glass Front Door Tinted Glass Fixed Door Vent Glass 85 MPH Primary Speedometer Glove Box Lamp Halogen Headlamps Black Front Bumper Rear Door Solid Window Insert Belt Moldings Federal Emissions EVAP Control System 18.5 Gallon Fuel Tank Bright White Clear Coat Standard Duty Shock Absorbers Rear Shock Absorbers Tire Carrier Winch Pickup BoxBuild To U.S. Mkt. Specifications GVW/Payload Rating U.S. Dealer RetailZone 33-Philadelphia Cloth Low-Back Bucket Seats Light Group Skid Plate Group GTS Interior Package Radio AM/FM Cassette 130 Amp Alternator Low Back Bucket Seats Reclining Front Seats Carpets - Floor and Cargo Area Full Length Floor Console All 4-Speed Automatic Transmissions Floor Mount Automatic Shift Lever 4.0L I6 Power Tech Engine Rear Sliding Window Sun Visors w/Illum Vanity Mirrors Left Remote Mirror Right Remote Control Mirror Manual Remote Mirrors Air Conditioning Digital Clock Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers Cigar Lighter Headlamps On Warning Chimes Courtesy Lamps Ash Tray Lamp Door Armrest Storage Lamp Underhood Lamp Headlamp Off Time Delay Front Fog Lamps Black Powder Coated Front Bumper Rear Body Color Applique Body Color Grille Black Windshield Moldings Lower Grille Surround Painted Silver Bright White Clear Coat All Radio Equipped VehiclesAM/FM Cassette Radio 4 Speakers Power Rack and Pinion Steering Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel Tilt Steering Column Full Size Spare Tire P225/75R15 OWL Wrangler AT Tires Goodyear Brand Tires 15X7 Aluminum Wheels All Aluminum Wheels 5 Additional Gallons of Gas Rear Spring Group I Left Front Group XV Right Front Spring Group XII Customer Preferred Discount Special Scheduling Condition I

Vehicle: 1991 Jeep Comanche Eliminator 4x4 SWB VIN: 1J7FJ66S8ML551555 Engine: 4.0L HO (Chrysler Electronics) Transmission: AW4 Transfer Case: NP-231 Front Axel: Dana 30 3.55 Gears Rear Axel: Dana 35 3.55 Gears Wheelbase: Short Wheel Base / Short Bed Build Date: October 1990 Current Mileage: 268,000 Factory Options: Skid Plate Group, Eliminator Package, AW4 Transmission, Bucket Seats, Full Center Console, Bright White Paint History: Purchased new in 1991 in Philadelphia, PA at Potamkin Auto Group. New engine installed in 2012. After a front end collision in 2013 in Corolla, NC, the truck was towed back to Philadelphia where it remained parked. Sold to me in April 2019, moved to York, PA. The cab roof has substantial rust, the front end needs collision work, and overall the electrical, vacuum and cooling systems are shot. The AW4 transmission slips in reverse, and overall the truck needs a lot of work to get back to what it once was. It does start and move under it's own power.

This place is a team effort :) Happy to help.

This is solved. By reverse engineering the links @Pete M and @gogmorgo posted, we were able to find an old conversion table in the database that mapped old topic ids from the old PunBB software to new topic ids used by IPB, which was upgraded to on August 20, 2012. This mapping was then verified against the test cases in this thread, and proved true: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=17030 https://comancheclub.com/topic/16070-im-building-another-trailer/ https://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=78 https://comancheclub.com/topic/67-my-lift-pix/ https://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=110 https://comancheclub.com/topic/95-won't-start/ http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=26095 https://comancheclub.com/topic/24491-the-dailyest-of-drivers-1992-mj/ So we created a conversion script at /forums/viewtopic.php which uses the database to look up the id mapping, then redirect to the proper URL using the new format (which is topic id dash seo title). All the help is appreciated. Without people posting up what they thought were matches, we would not have discovered the mapping data was available.

I'll post an example. I ran across one when I bought my 92. Here is an ad terrawombat posted years before he sold it to me: https://comancheclub.com/topic/50575-1992-jeep-comanche-sport-2wd-md/ In that thread, he says there's more info in his build thread and posted a link to this URL, which does not work (Not Found): http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=26095 The only build thread for this 92 I could find authored by terrawombat is at this URL, so I assume this is the URL that the above should be directed to: https://comancheclub.com/topic/24491-the-dailyest-of-drivers-1992-mj/ I see the same correlation as if post #26095 became post #24491 during the forum upgrade years ago. I'm going to do some digging in the database itself, but need more examples, please.

Here in PA when one comes available, which is about once every two months, they are usually in this condition or slightly better and going for $1,500-2,000. Whenever one appears that's not rotten and can be driven, they usually go for $5,000-7,000.

I did some digging on this. There were two silver colors first offered in 1991 and used again in 1992 on MJs. The first is Silver Star Metallic code PAC (aka KAC), which can be seen here on my truck, although yours looks way better. Definitely appears darker or lighter depending on the light available: The second is Dark Silver Metallic code PS7 (aka KS7), which can be seen on HOrnbrod's truck: Thanks, looking good. Welcome to the High Output Brotherhood.

Burgandy aka Cordovan. My build thread is linked to in my signature.

Very nice score. Please post up the paint code off the body tag when you have a minute. I think that's Silver Star Metallic (PAC available in 91 and 92 only). Which would mean my 91 is supposed to look like that, but it doesn't. Thanks.

Got a part number or source for these? I've only got 1 and need 5 more.

Roger that. You've got a head start by quite a bit. Mine won't make it into the garage for teardown until summer.

My house is wired properly. Every time wiring had been added or modified, it was done by a certified electrician and/or myself to adhere to code. The code at the time of modification dating all the way back to 1956 when the house was built. No way it stands up to 2019 code. Would pass home inspection, though. I was kind of taken back by what you said here, but you're right. I like the quick and dirty solution you propose here. For the extension, some people buy RV hookups and hack them instead of buying all that copper straight up.

Do you know if the fitment on these belts is correct? These guys have been on my list to research. Product looks really good. So, instead of buying readily available new belts, someone would have to obtain and modify a used seatbelt more than two decades old. I think the types of people that make those types of choices end up injured and in hospitals frequently. Anybody got any NOS belts in AMC black they'd be willing to part with? If not, I'm going to get some new belts.

That's definitely a YJ frame. Axles look stock width, likely a D30/D35 combo. Tires look to be 12.5" wide, so overall track width looks stock with that size tire. With full size axles those tires would be mostly outside the fenders.

I want to punch my computer every time this thread comes back to the top. That's a perfectly good YJ frame they ruined.

Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you put the key in and turn it? Do you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail? Is it the right amount of pressure with vacuum connected and disconnected? Did you check the ballast resistor, and/or attempt to bypass it to rule that out as a problem? Did you replace or swap in a known working relay yet? Did you replace your fuel filter? I had a weird issue with my 91. First my 230k mile old original fuel pump went on the fritz and would randomly die. Oddly, if I dumped what fuel remained in the fuel rail it would start right up. I replaced the pump with the Bosch and all was good for about 2 months, then it died again. This time it was different, though, as I could not hear the fuel pump priming and the fuel rail was always empty when I checked it. Replaced the fuel filter (the only component I didn't check) and it's been good ever since. My theory is that replacing the fuel pump stirred up debirs in the tank which clogged the filter. I think the pump wasn't priming because the fuel was at pressure between the pump and filter, just couldn't get past it. I'm an HO guy, so I'm not sure if I can be of any help beyond asking some basic questions to make sure you checked everything you could. Renix owners might want to chime in. We've got to get Wendy back on the road.

Congratulations on the new house and new wife! Take care of them both and try not to burn the place down :) What you've got is a very old configuration which definitely would not be up to building codes in 2019. You've got to follow building codes - 2019 codes - when you do the work. The codes will tell you how big a wire to run for different amperages depending on the length of your runs. Dropping in a sub panel is not hard work, and it's not complicated. You're dealing with three wires, have to make sure the power is off, all your connections are tight and all your wiring is up to par. You know how much juice you want to run through it - build for that. But, since it's not your house, and you might not be technically capable of doing the electrical work, consider a gas generator with 110/220V outlets on it and run that with the welder. Electrical components, especially the actual wiring, can be downright expensive these days. But not as expensive as a fire. Do it right or don't do it. I did this a few years ago in my garage. I wired in a subpanel right next to the main box, which luckily was right in the garage in a closet. For my application, I used a 100 amp subpanel and wired breakers in for a 20A/220V air compressor circuit, 30A/220V circuit for the plasma cutter (also switched to a 30A electric heater - so I can run one or the other, but not both at the same time), a 20A/110V welder circuit, and a 20A/110V circuit for garage outlets. Works like a charm:

Check out this thread for info on using a RHD fan:

I got a quote from my cousin, who owns a body shop in Baltimore, for $4000 to paint my 95 YJ. Full job including under the hood, etc. Bottom and inside to be bedlined by me separely. That $4000 included materials and the labor on the base/clear. I would have had to disassemble, do all the prep, primer and sealer and deliver/pickup/reassmble. So Jeep Driver claiming $8000 is probably right on. And way too much for a truck like these. I'm going to learn to paint and put the money towards quality materials and equipment. I've got more than one Jeep which will need paint over the next few years so that plays into my decision as well. I'd like to see some quotes as well.

I had a similar issue with my 91. Changing the fuel filter solved it. Guessing I stirred up some debris in the tank when changing the pump that ultimately clogged the filter. Good luck.

This is an error triggered by the BIOS on the motherboard. It's complaining it can't find a drive to boot from. Might be due to a loose connection at the hard drive connector. Draining the system of all power and restarting works, so I'd assume it's not a connector issue and diagnose as a BIOS firmware issue. If you suspect this is the casen upgrqde the BIOS firmware on the motherboard. Also, upgrade that Win 7 to something recent at some point.

Normal. Tighten back down to the same torque spec. I think it's 12 ft/lbs, but don't quote me on that.

This sounds like the most plausible sitiation. No way two keys fit in the cylinder at the same time, and the cylinder is only open on one end.

Spray water on the belt when squeaking. If the squeaking stops, it's either a bad belt, or pulleys are out of alignment causing slippage, or both.

More info and links here: