NC Tom

Looking at this part listed as "exact fit." https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/cv-plus-new-cv-axle-assembly-ax-9370/11460893-P

Forgive my ignorance. The SurTrack CV shafts look totally different from what's there now. I'm assuming that the U-joint is in the boot and I won't need the Spicer joints I already have?

Axle shafts and unit bearings. I'm assuming I need new axle nuts as well?

Well, thanks for the reply, even though it's bad news. It's been clicking for a while. Have the new joints, but broke my torque wrench and my breaker bar trying to get that f'ing axle nut off today. I'm totally frustrated! I have no other tools to attempt this again. I've been reading that to have a garage replace both joints would be around $1000 bucks. Is that right? What/how did you "cut off" exactly? Nevermind. I reread you post and saw the "I just undid the hub bolts, and slid the whole shaft out and tossed it and put in all new components." part. Can you provide a list of parts so I can look into doing it the same way?

Thanks! Any helpful opinions appreciated!

Eh, not a "complete" novice. I just haven't done too much work on my Comanche's underside. Having watched some vids and read more about it, I'm pretty confident I can get it done. Another question though. Is this particular U-joint one that will cause damage to other components over time or should I jump on this immediately. Full disclosure, it's been "clicking" for a while, I just recently tracked it down and posted the video.

Thanks Pete. Do you think a novice could replace it, or should I leave it up to a mechanic?

I have this clicking from the driver front wheel. You can see in the vid, the Y-shaped piece shifts a bit making a click. Clicking stops when banking or turning.

Anybody tried or seen tried non-fabric headliners? Just thinking, but what if you removed and sprayed the headliner with flat paint or bedliner or something along those lines? And to answer the "why?" question, because it's cheap and easy and I'm broke and lazy!

Adding to what Jeep Driver posted: Can you just buy a straight MJ for cheap and then disassemble/reassemble onto the new frame? Lots of work, but consider it sweat equity.

That worked! Had a little rust on Neg connector and a little white film on Pos. Really bizarre how that works and how sensitive those connections are. Thanks Pete!

Recently replaced.

This is most annoying! Was having slow start issues when cold, fine after initial start. Replaced battery last week. Been running fine for the past 5-6 days. This morning, I get back from taking my son to school and my wife goes to start the MJ and NOTHING happens! No lights, no crank or click! It's as if there is no battery. This occurred, literally, 15 minutes after I parked it after have no issues. What the hell!?!?!?

Thanks, Eagle. Yes, she's running much better now! Seems like there is a few options on your solution above. The one I chose was a bit messy, but it's all good!

So far, so go on this adventure! Thanks for all the feedback!

Yes, I have the cap. Here's where I'm at after lots and lots of reading. Removed exp tank cap Added coolant, left cap off Started, let run After coolant began to get suck in, I slowly added more Was running good. Next thing you know, coolant was bubbling up out of the exp bottle all over the place! Leveled out, still ran fine, coolant in exp bottle was lower and seemed stable Turned off truck, exp bottled almost emptied when sucked in again I imagine everything that happened was normal. I think I lost a whole bottle of coolant during the bubbling part though. From here, I guess I need to add coolant back to the MAX line, put the cap back on and let her run a bit, and expect nothing abnormal to happen? Also, the climbing idle didn't happen this time. I guess it was related to the low coolant.

Alright, maybe I'm getting somewhere now. Switched over to heat, started up, idle rose very high again, put it in gear idle calmed down. The idle only increases while in Park. Ran it for a bit, turned it off, heard steam, bottle was empty and about to pop. So, Chiltons says to do this procedure until the bottle does not suck all the fluid out. I guess that's my plan for today unless someone here has a better idea.

Okay, okay . . . I got the cap! Marked the levels as you did, filled it up, charged battery, started truck, slow idle builds to very fast idle, got nervous, shut if off after 5-7 min or so, coolant in expansion tank did not get sucked in. Also, I just remembered I did not turn on the heater. However, I'm thinking maybe the temp sensor is bad. I know it should be easy, but I CANNOT find the bastard. It's a Renix 4.0. All the diagrams I see make my brain hurt. All the photos I see are not Renix since the sensor is right there on top in a convenient location. To find the sensor, should I be under the truck looking up? I'll turn the heater on and report back.

Coolant.

I figured that. Why I was wondering about proper filing and knowing when it's full.

Right. I have to order that cap, but I was concerned that it could be something worse. Based on the video and my "story" you think the system is not holding pressure? Nothing more? I'm wondering if I don't have enough coolant flowing through. Problem is, I've read many of the "MJ overheating" posts and I still don't understand how to tell how much coolant I have/need or even how to add it to a closed system. Actually, I know how to add coolant to the plastic bottle up to the small pipe, but other than that, I'm not sure how to tell how much more may be needed.

For the past few weeks I've had steam and fluid spouting from the plastic bottle on my 88 4.0 Renix. That has been the only issue that some thang won't raght. Friday, engine was slow to start, but otherwise the same. End of day, again, slow to start but this time, by the time I had driven less than two miles, I had lots of steam! Idiot light never came on. Turned truck off, opened hood and had steam all around. Prior to this I had found a crack in the plastic bottle. I replaced that today, added FSM level of coolant, checked oil. It's dirty, but does not look like a milkshake. Started truck, slow to start, ran fine for about 3 minutes. Idle started creeping up and creeping up and creeping up. I decided to drive a bit. Idle dropped after shifting into reverse. It's an auto. Drove maybe a mile, shut off, steam everywhere again. Would not start, but would slowly turn over. Walked home. Let it cool for a while, was able to start it and get it back home. So, the video is shortly after I pulled over. I'll likely be getting it towed to the dealer unless you smart folks have any idea what's happening. I'd rather not go to the dealer, but I've been going to local mechs and I'm not sure they know what they are doing. Thinking the dealer would be better, albeit, more expensive. Oh, it's been a bit cooler here if that matters. The battery is dated 2015 and could be the source of the slow start.

Agreed. My question is, can brackets be made to lower rockers to stock bench height?

The PO rattle canned my 88 with flat black. I want to remove the flat only. I've been reading on other forums about options, but wanted to see if anyone here has any experience with this scenario. I know the factory paint, Colorado Red with Gold Stripe, is not in great shape. However, I think I'd rather have crappy factory paint then this current crappy, faded, peeling flat black.

It's worth checking CL for these too. Got my seals off a 96 XJ for $25 for the set and they are a big improvement.