NC Tom

Assuming that I did this correctly, continuity is there. I put the red probe on starter and used black probe to check all the connections on the relay.

I just removed and cleaned the cables and connections. They weren't too bad to start. Still no full start after the cleaning. I added the jump box back in and it eventually caught, but it took several tries. I checked all the reading from the REM while at idle ans the only one that was off is the TPS reading at 12 and not 17.

At the batt are solid. I'll have to get in there to check the others.

So this is thread is adjacent to my battery thread, but different. New battery installed, cranks strong, but no catch. Tried it a few time because it's been sitting for a bit. No luck. Attached my jump box, engine turnover was noticeably quicker and she started right up. So, it's still not turning over fast enough to catch with a new battery. Seems to need a little extra juice. My REM shows voltage at 13.7 while idling. Do these symptoms point back the alternator? The Advance Auto check I had done on it indicated it was ok. Thoughts

I decided to go with an EverStart from Walmart. https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Maxx-Lead-Acid-Automotive-Battery-Group-Size-34-12-Volt-800-CCA/16795242?classType=REGULAR&athbdg=L1600&adsRedirect=true So far, so good.

I know. I work a lot of hours and I've turned my ankle, so I've been slow to get things done.

Good idea.

My current battery is dying, so I may be using this example incorrectly. My 88 starts better when I add my jump box in the picture. The extra amperage seems to turn the engine over substantially faster for a quicker start. My REM shows my alt working correctly, but without the jump box, it turns too slow to catch. Is there a minimum CCA I should look for?

Thank you, sir. I may be wrong, but I'm thinking that for a Renix Jeep, I should get a crap-ton of cranking amps.

Folks, I've been looking around this forum and the general webbernet at battery options. I've read here that Interstate are a popular choice and that buying a Group 34 size will fit and will offer more performance. I did look at Optima, but saw too many negative comments to pursue that. I have also read very good things about the Walmart EverStart. https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Maxx-Lead-Acid-Automotive-Battery-Group-Size-34-12-Volt-800-CCA/16795242?adsRedirect=true I'm eyeballing this one because it checks offs two main boxes. High CCA and decent pricing. Warranty looks solid and the customer reviews are good, for what that's worth. The Interstate version of this battery is 2X higher! Is it going to be 2X better? I've made a decision to routinely visit this forum before making a decision. Thought's and or experiences?

I do know some welders. I really don't want to pull the carpet. Ugh!

I agree and used tools can be an option. The bulk of my large woodworking tools are used.

Sure. It would be good skill to have and use from time to time. Even if the welds are very pretty, they can be safe.

My what? Never done it. However, I'm really good tearing things apart. It's the reassembly that I struggle with.

I had to move the axle with a ratchet strap and hammer the shims back in. I broke three straps trying to move that thing. Bought a new, heavy duty one and that worked. I originally had the strap hooked to the step rail on my other truck, but the rail started to bend, so I stopped that. Then, I hooked it to the trailer hitch receptacle, and that worked. Although, I swear I was slightly dragging that truck towards the Jeep.

Yeah. Been meaning to do that.

I just noticed this today. I have the same rusty spot of each side of the cab just behind the front fender wells. Is this a pro repair or can a layperson do it?

HALLELUJAH!!!!!! It's done! What this experience has taught me: 1. Comancheclub.com is PRICELESS!!!! 2. The members that chimed in with knowledge and guidance, thank you! 3. When someone here suggests a professional do certain work on your MJ . . . LISTEN TO THEM!!! 4. DO NOT BUY CHEAP parts! Don't even try to save a penny. Buy the best! Mortgage your house, take a personal loan, pick up odd jobs, work the streets, open a LEARING CENTER daycare or sell your soul if you have to! I went budget and have suffered the consequences. I will likely continue to suffer. 5. Be prepared to modify parts as needed, if needed. 6. If, like I, you know just enough to get stuck. Bring in a friend with proven experience. I did, and I'm so glad I did. 7. Pay attention and take stock of what your doing. If you F-up, take a walk and come back later. I would suggest openly laughing at the mistake and just redo the work. Getting mad and throwing things, etc. is a waste of time and energy. 8. Ultimately, do your very best to enjoy the experience. Remember, we're driving trucks that most folks no longer see or may have never seen. We need to keep them on the road. MJ's make people smile. Tom

Thank you, sir.

I have a Chilton's. Didn't even think to check that!

Yeah, I know it's a learning experience. It's not the "doing" it's the "re-doing" that chaps my @$$. I didn't know about the shims at all. Now I do. Looks like I have added a dozen more pages to my book about how not to do things. I guess I'll be at it again this coming weekend. But, with more knowledge!

Everything else has been replaced. Shake is gone. I don't have anything to hook a strap to. I guess I'll have to put everything back together and move the truck close to a tree. This day has been a complete waste of time. So frustrating.

Bout a quarter inch. I don't have any way to move the axle. I tried for couple of hours, nope. "Any competent alignment shop should be able to accommodate the longer arms just fine." So I can move ahead with what I'm doing?

They are not the same. If they were, they would have lined up well. I will be getting an alignment. Will a professional alignment be able to accommodate the longer arms?

Okay. See pic. I figured drilling was a bad idea and that I just needed to move the axle forward a bit. While I was pondering that, I noticed the hole where the arm is installed in the body is oval. Then I noticed the two bolts holding a bracket with a round hole in it. This bracket was shimmed to center the hole. I took the adjustable bracket out, removed the shims and reinstalled the bracket. Now that arm mounts in the bracket. This is apparently a factory adjustment. I can only assume that's it'd okay to install this way. I have only done the one side. Anyone see a reason that won't work. The slightly longer control arm fits.