NC Tom

Will do!

I'll order track bar. Also, going to order bushings for sway bar. However, Rock Auto is showing many different diameters from 16mm to 26.5mm? Any suggestions?

Okay. Well, that's a start. Thanks again.

Yeah, sure wish it was something obvious other than just old parts. I can recreate the issue anytime when I leave the neighborhood. I did it the other day just to really feel what was happening. When I go over some specific road bumps the steering wheel just goes nuts with back and forth action. If I don't immediately hit the brakes to slow down and calm the motion, I really don't know what would happen. The faster I go, the worse it gets. Something is not absorbing and/or controlling the front end when I hit a bump, like where new pavement meets old.

I did some poking around today and basically found nothing. Had the front end on jack stands, my son turned the wheel back and fourth and nothing seemed to be wrong. No clunks or creaks, nothing looked or felt sloppy. I have little to no movement with the ball joints using the "pry bar under a tire" method. The only movement I found is illustrated here:

@RiversideMJ Did you get this job finished? I'm starting something similar and was curious how it went.

You guys have been very helpful. I think I'll go back to the beginning, like was suggested, and start with what "needs" to be addressed. Anyone have a good source for what I'll be doing and looking for? Sorry to be so needy, but I prefer fairly specific guidance for this type of thing. At least for the first time I try it. @89 MJ posted, "Everything in the steering should be moving together and have no play." I am assuming this means that there should be no delay between components during movement?

@89 MJ@ghetdjc320@ratrapp Ok, you guys have made disappointing but valid points. I honestly thought this would be a unbolt, replace, tighten type of repair. I see now it looks to be specialized. I hate that, because I'm tired of garages marking up parts, literally, 500%! It's just a damn money grab.

Alright folks, I'm getting pissed trying to order tie rods and ball joints off Rock Auto! Ball Joints: Do I want adjustable or non-adjustable? Tie Rods: Can't figure out what I need. Seems like the descriptions are lacking crucial/consistent info. Some mention "outer" or "inner"; some mention Thread direction; some say Pass or Driver, but none are the same and I don't want to deal with not having the right part when I need it. I don't know this stuff and don't want to guess. Rock Auto is also trying to upsell special tools for install. Is that worth it? It's a BIG ask, but can anyone just clarify this for me? Something I can use to identify the correct parts? I know, I may have to give up my "Man Card".

@AnotherOldJeepGuy Do you suppose these two lines should be one?

Ok. That sounds like it's worth looking into. What's the model year I need to reference for the WJ? I've had bigger tires in the past and found them to be more of a P.I.T.A. then a benefit to me.

Brother, it's parked right next to my truck!

Ok, Pete. I can see you're all-in on this swap. Question: I run stock size tires. Is there any benefit for me from this mod?

Yeah, I'd rather not modify anything at this point. Thanks

I see. Didn't know the bushings were kind-of like bearings. I'll just replace the whole arm. Thanks!

Would old bushings indicate replacing the control arms and the bushings?

Is that "SKF" or "SKP"? Rockauto has "SKP". Also, is the ZJ swap direct fit.

I get that. However, I think it's all original down there except for the shocks that a changed several years ago. While it may be foolish to just change everything, everything will be changed. Problem solved is problem solved. I'm sure that makes sense in a parallel universe somewhere.

What are you saying? It's crap?

Pete, are the WJ arms a direct fit? Also, what year for WJ to pull from?

No doubt you all are right about the potential poor quality of the big kits. I would imagine that some parts are okay, some decent, some poor maybe even very poor. However, while I prefer not having to piece together a shopping list and possibly not having the part needed when it's needed, I guess should go for quality over quantity. My MJ is 90% street. Any suggestions for brands that cater more to that price point/use than for parts "overbuilt" for off road that may be more expensive or overkill?

Back to this headache. I guess I need to replace the whole shebang. I'd like to find something like this for my 88, but there doesn't seem to be one. https://www.amazon.com/Detroit-Axle-Adjustment-1991-2001-1991-1992/dp/B07B6RGWC9?ref_=nav_ya_signin I am assuming a kit for a 91 won't work. I have also read that some of the metal parts may not need to be replaced, just bushings. Any thoughts on where I should start? BTW, the symptoms haven't worsened. I am looking into what @AZJeff posted earlier.

Thanks for this.

Folks this is an extension of my post about REM readings. I turned into a vacuum discussion, so I figured it made more sense to start a new thread. I am going through my vac lines and I've been using the "MJ Projects and Write-Ups" area for guidance, BUT, it's not really working out for me. My lines aren't matching up, I'm not finding lines in question or, maybe, I just can't read the diagrams. Specifically, cabin vent air/heat only comes through the defrost. @AnotherOldJeepGuy Mentioned the hard line that runs along the firewall. SEE Engine Bay Pic. I took another pic of a similar pic @AnotherOldJeepGuy posted about his lines. My lines appear to be different. I have 4WD he has 2WD. Does that matter for this? See Close-Up pic. Hose "A" I found today. I cannot find where it is supposed to go. I think it's the "Yellow" hose in AnotherOldJeepGuy's pic. The "B" connection on my truck hasn't been attached to anything since I got it seven years ago. The little rubber "bulb" has a Ford logo on it. Can anyone make sense of this?

That's interesting. I'll check it out.