NC Tom

Yes. See pic. Old and new. The news ones are wider by a good margin. Plus, the old ones don't have those "ears" that stick out beyond the install bracket. Again, is this user error or part error?

52001162

I ordered some new ones. I can tell you from measuring them, they won't fit. This is a real pisser! Where the bolt threads through measures approx 2 3/8" wide on the stock ones. The new ones measure 2 7/8" at the same point. What am I doing wrong? Control arms

Okay. Well, I now understand that I was corn-fused. My brain translated "connector" to mean the actual CPS module on the bell housing. And I was thinking, if the CPS can just be removed from the equation, why hadn't Cruiser ever mentioned it? Now I know. Thank you. However, I'm all for simplification. Is the Chrysler kit still available? Has anyone seen a video or tutorial on the process? I know it was mentioned earlier, I just like visuals for reference.

I ran across a post stating, "Some people have cured their CPS problems by simply cutting the connector out of the harness and SOLDERING the wires together." Is this legit?

Give-or-take. It was too much to modify. So, I sent them back and ordered another set. This time, they only sent one! So annoying! I had time scheduled with a buddy to get these on today, but nope. I need to measure the replacement now, to see if it will fit. For anyone reading this post, "guaranteed to fit" is just speculation.

I ordered some SKP brand lower control arms for my 88 from rockauto and they are too wide by about +/- 1/2". They are supposed to be compatible. Does anyone know of a brand that are guaranteed to fit like OEM? Doesn't seem like anyone posts those technical measurements. They only post length. I'm not interested in the WJ mod and swap.

I got one of these jump boxes from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/AUXITO-Starter-Portable-Emergency-Flashlight/dp/B0FK5FL3BH?crid=G90TETQJNWI5&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.5Kn7JgG8eUHkWliqAlPA_VZhCrCXV0Bz0QeWNvvQfmWQKM6SRYlsAI98pbJ009SxbGndNWjEmaVn_DGvy0r0g_7gcUC_nIaOax17TtzkS3S9UIJh6Ajgr-abDH9J0jhOxh-ZXO-_oA-W3o3YY7MbrgCU9uiVZhD62Jk52HB3VVRbXapURiDjjcmONz58mdx0f-4CJsjLDmCFqlE5o60bRpyrwYfzmWlDsy7pYIXPwH0.VA8leK3PYB98tN6PmpMteB_kkoYUuwgg6_xxOOnz1kQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=auxito+jump+starter&qid=1769899348&sprefix=auxito%2Caps%2C999&sr=8-3 If you don't have one, GET ONE! I know they have been around for a bit, but I never really saw the need. I was wrong! Especially for Renix models that need a little extra bump or if your MJ ever sits awhile. It really has been an amazing tool during this crazy cold weather. I kept the cost down by skipping the vacuum, tire inflation, microwave oven, wormhole generator features. Just have the charge ports and a light.

Best I can tell, no Comanche parts from NAPA Fleet.

I've been parts shopping for a bit and as with anything the opinions of others are all over the place! For someone with a limited parts budget I'm always struggling with cost/performance issues. On Rock Auto, for example, typical brands are: (This is for steering/suspension) SKP Mevotech MOOG Dorman Ultra-power MCQUAY-NORRIS QUICK STEER TRW ACDelco Delphi TRW and others Search any of these brands and you get the full spectrum of "Love it, to JUNK!" opinions. Keeping in mind that people are largely stupid and will complain about something that is not even related to the part they purchased or a part fails because the knucklehead takes a stock truck over the Rockies. We all know this is true. Ok, back to me! My truck is 95% stock. It's my DD and I NEVER abuse it. Very limited off-road use. Snow or mud is not uncommon. For we stock drivers, are parts brands largely a non-issue? I've read Dorman is good, I've read Dorman is bad. Same for every other brand. Many folks here like MOOG. I would assume MOOG is better than Dorman. However, I've also read MOOG is junk. What gives? I would love to buy the parts I can afford, but not at the cost of part failure. Is it so hard to expect that ALL aftermarket parts are stock quality at minimum? How can we get a better quality source of reviews/recommendations for our old trucks?

I have a refurbished 7751 and would love to know how to hook an amp to it. Specifically, an old school Rockford Fosgate Punch 75. I can't figure it out. Schematics make my brain hurt.

FWIW: Cruiser54 recommended this, "Get a 703-1396 cap from Napa or an equivalent. From a Volvo." I did, and it works really well. Holds tight.

Maybe. I get mild motion sickness in the car and sometimes when I play video games. I've NEVER had this before. Getting old sucks!!!!

After A LOT of reading and thinking and stalling, I've dropped coin on a Rough Country track bar. It's overkill for me and it will outlast me as well, but that's okay. It's a good part that I can install and should see immediate results. Maybe I'll start replacing all the undercarriage components once I get used to being under there.

That's interesting. Thanks!

I get that too. Another issue I have is positional vertigo. An age-related issue that is VERY annoying! I need to get the truck up higher than just a jack to work without getting . In fact, it's the stupid vertical that really keeps me from tackling these repairs. If anyone else has issues laying under their truck and feeling sick and has a "cure" please chime in!

Recently I was run off the road by some douche rocket driving in my lane coming around a blind curve. This happens a lot in Watauga Co.! I hit a DEEP pot hole and busted a lower shock mount on my 2004 Honda Pilot. I've been under it, but I can't tell exactly what's broken. I'm thinking it's the knuckle. Anyone have any other ideas?

Sure. That was my first thought as well, however, the spirit of Crusier54 and others have been reminding me not to fire the parts cannon. Also, it looks and sounds like a pretty in-depth job. So, I'm back to keeping it simple. I'm not making much progress on that.

Thought that was the Axel (Differential) side? The other side is the passenger side? I didn't realize that was just a dust cap though. Okay, well, I'll take my confusion back outside. Also. Is it better to lift the front end before removing that bolt?

Can't tell if the hole is oval-ed, but that bushing is toast.