NC Tom

I still don't know what it looks like.

The refresh didn't work. Ed, the garage owner, said the resin was also cracked. I assume he means on the coil. Says it will run for about 15-30 mins then shut off. He's pretty confident that I need to replace both pieces, which is fine. However, can someone please upload a good pic of the module? I'm finding multiple non-matching images and since Ed has the truck with him, I can't just look at the part myself.

No, they haven't done any work except for basic troubleshooting. Are the coils still available? NAPA didn't have any, said they were discontinued. Is the separating and cleaning a straightforward procedure?

My 88 4.0 Renix Comanche stumbled and cut off today. The garage says it's a "module" underneath the coil. Truck starts and runs as long as the "module" is wet. Once the "module" gets hot, engine runs rough and dies. Will turn over but not start until "module" is cool. Garage recommends a new coil and "module." However, said "module" is no longer available. My web searches have found nothing about a "module" under the coil. So, I cannot find a part number to search for. Unless it's all one part with the coil? I suggested unplugging and replugging the TPS, but the garage is confident about their diagnosis. The owner of the garage is an old time Jeep guy and seems to know his Renix stuff. However, I've always had good luck here with repairs and so, I'm seeking answers again. Can anyone with experience in this area offer some clarity? Side note: the last time this shut-off happened, I did just unplug and replug the TPS and it worked fine. Are the TPS and this "module" related? Or, maybe it's just a different cause with similar symptoms? Thanks everybody!

I like this discussion and had to chime in and brag a bit about my 1990 Pioneer TS-TRX50 speakers that are only two years older than my '88!

Boone, NC does. That's where I got mine.

Not sure, so I sent it to them just in case. It's hard talking to a mechanic with a lot of experience. They get kind-of belligerent if they think you're trying to tell them their business.

Agree with Pete on this one. I didn't see any reason to spend more money on a brand name piece of steel pipe. My opinion of course.

Thanks for all the information. It's at a shop now. They are struggling as well. This is truly unbelievable!

Well over a month now dealing with this garbage and I have another question. What is typical break pedal travel? Replaced: MC, Booster, Calipers, Cylinders, Front Pads, Line in the back. The system has been bled several times. Pedal started out good this morning with little travel before engaging, but this afternoon it's drops quickly to 1-2" from the floor. It does stop, but I am assuming that the extended travel is NOT normal. Please help! I've lost countless hours, 1K in cash, my wife and my dog are giving me the "stink eye", and I have a rash on my . . . never mind.

"Rounded off" is nice way to describe what I did to those poor, poor screws.

Heat was the trick to getting the bleed screws loose and off! Had to replace those guys as I butchered them beyond recognition.

Thanks everybody. I have something to think about now. If I can get the stock lines to break free, I'll likely just replace the rear hose and that one hard line. If I can't get the stock line off, well, I guess I'll be spending a lot of time under the truck.

Thanks Jason. Are these lines 1/4". Any domestic line should work if I decide to go with pre-flared?

Anybody use the rental flare tool from Advance Auto? https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/powerbuilt-tools-kit-23-double-flaring-tool-set-9-piece-648610/9150055-P?searchTerm=9150045+OR+9150055+OR+9150047

Ah. Expected a more specialized name.

Great! What's it called, I'll look for one.

I guess that's it. No threads, just plugs in.

I imagine that would be right. However, the rubber hose connects to a three-way fitting in a manner I haven't seen before.

I'll post my full experience of replacing my MC and brake booster at a later date. But for now I need help to get my Hoopty back on the road as it's my DD. As I'm starting to bleed the brakes, fluid is shooting out the back of the truck! I checked underneath to see a substantial leak where the lines meet around the proportional valve. See pic. The hard line rusted through and snapped off while trying to loosen the rubber line. The rubber line and hard line are rusted together. The other end of the hard line is rusted solid to the "T" connector. I cannot get tools and my hands up there to try and break it loose. Does anyone have any real world options to fix this mess? I've been reading through the posts about deleting the prop valve, but I'm not familiar enough with these brake systems to really understand what to do. It may seem clear to others but, unfortunately, I'm dyslexic or something when it comes to this stuff. I'm looking for a repair that can be done with parts from Advance or Auto Zone. Napa works too, but they're closed tomorrow. Thanks!

No sir! Haven't checked it yet. Starting my long overdue brake job this morning! (8/23/21)

An EXCELLENT reason!

Sure. Right now I'm just trying to figure out the stall issue.

Okay. I'll watch some videos and then take it to a pro.

Oh. Okay.