NC Tom

Thanks Jason. Are these lines 1/4". Any domestic line should work if I decide to go with pre-flared?

Anybody use the rental flare tool from Advance Auto? https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/powerbuilt-tools-kit-23-double-flaring-tool-set-9-piece-648610/9150055-P?searchTerm=9150045+OR+9150055+OR+9150047

Ah. Expected a more specialized name.

Great! What's it called, I'll look for one.

I guess that's it. No threads, just plugs in.

I imagine that would be right. However, the rubber hose connects to a three-way fitting in a manner I haven't seen before.

I'll post my full experience of replacing my MC and brake booster at a later date. But for now I need help to get my Hoopty back on the road as it's my DD. As I'm starting to bleed the brakes, fluid is shooting out the back of the truck! I checked underneath to see a substantial leak where the lines meet around the proportional valve. See pic. The hard line rusted through and snapped off while trying to loosen the rubber line. The rubber line and hard line are rusted together. The other end of the hard line is rusted solid to the "T" connector. I cannot get tools and my hands up there to try and break it loose. Does anyone have any real world options to fix this mess? I've been reading through the posts about deleting the prop valve, but I'm not familiar enough with these brake systems to really understand what to do. It may seem clear to others but, unfortunately, I'm dyslexic or something when it comes to this stuff. I'm looking for a repair that can be done with parts from Advance or Auto Zone. Napa works too, but they're closed tomorrow. Thanks!

No sir! Haven't checked it yet. Starting my long overdue brake job this morning! (8/23/21)

An EXCELLENT reason!

Sure. Right now I'm just trying to figure out the stall issue.

Okay. I'll watch some videos and then take it to a pro.

Oh. Okay.

Thanks Pete. Is RMS replacement a driveway job by a novice, or is that professional territory?

Since it's raining cats and dogs. I can't really check anything as I don't have a garage. However, something new happened today. I was sitting in a parking lot, listening to the radio. The engine was running. My windows were fogging so I turned on the defogger. It ran for a bit and then the truck just shut off! Had a difficult time restarting, but did start and I was able to drive home. Apparently, I'm confused about the CPS. I thought it was only for cranking. Once the truck is running what's the function? How does it cause a stall? Also, based on the answers so far, is there no link between low oil and stalling? Was that just a coincidence?

How can you tell? Is there oil present somewhere?

RMS?

Yes, C101 is clean. Have not been able to clean every connector yet. Actually, I didn't have issues until after I started ground refreshing and connector cleaning.

Fuel is good. Over a 1/4 tank. Dipstick ground is good as I just did the refresh.

First: I need to give this forum a big-a$$ "Thank You!" The members are knowledgeable and have saved me, literally, hundreds of dollars. Three weeks ago my 88 Pioneer 4.0 bucked a little and shut off while driving. It restarted, drove a bit more and did the same thing. I let it sit for a bit, restarted and made it to me destination. Oil was low. Added 2 qts and everything was fine until yesterday when the same thing happened. Stall, restart, stall, add oil, fine. Details: The stalling occurred about 3 miles into my drive both times. I live in a mountainous areas and the stalling occurred at roughly the same distance and location as the first time. The road gets very curvy as you climb upwards. My oil dummy light did not come on either time until after stall. I know I have an oil leak, but not 2 qts in three weeks! I don't leave puddles of oil. I also don't seem to be burning oil. I know there are a few causes to this issue, but do my symptoms point to anything specific to anyone?

To answer your question, yes, it will sit higher. I have done this swap. You'll need to experiment with bracket placement to be sure it's going to be mounted comfortably for you. You'll be doing some drilling as well. Here's my post. It's not a write-up, but maybe it can help.

If it's just peeling, but otherwise okay, contact cement may work. Then you might want to clean it and wipe it down with a little mineral spirits and then apply a clear topcoat.

Yes.

I'm 55, but also 6' 4". I'm sure it will be an adventure!

Thanks. I was hoping that there would be someone who had done this before and would share their process from start to finish.