NC Tom

Thanks Pete. Is RMS replacement a driveway job by a novice, or is that professional territory?

Since it's raining cats and dogs. I can't really check anything as I don't have a garage. However, something new happened today. I was sitting in a parking lot, listening to the radio. The engine was running. My windows were fogging so I turned on the defogger. It ran for a bit and then the truck just shut off! Had a difficult time restarting, but did start and I was able to drive home. Apparently, I'm confused about the CPS. I thought it was only for cranking. Once the truck is running what's the function? How does it cause a stall? Also, based on the answers so far, is there no link between low oil and stalling? Was that just a coincidence?

How can you tell? Is there oil present somewhere?

RMS?

Yes, C101 is clean. Have not been able to clean every connector yet. Actually, I didn't have issues until after I started ground refreshing and connector cleaning.

Fuel is good. Over a 1/4 tank. Dipstick ground is good as I just did the refresh.

First: I need to give this forum a big-a$$ "Thank You!" The members are knowledgeable and have saved me, literally, hundreds of dollars. Three weeks ago my 88 Pioneer 4.0 bucked a little and shut off while driving. It restarted, drove a bit more and did the same thing. I let it sit for a bit, restarted and made it to me destination. Oil was low. Added 2 qts and everything was fine until yesterday when the same thing happened. Stall, restart, stall, add oil, fine. Details: The stalling occurred about 3 miles into my drive both times. I live in a mountainous areas and the stalling occurred at roughly the same distance and location as the first time. The road gets very curvy as you climb upwards. My oil dummy light did not come on either time until after stall. I know I have an oil leak, but not 2 qts in three weeks! I don't leave puddles of oil. I also don't seem to be burning oil. I know there are a few causes to this issue, but do my symptoms point to anything specific to anyone?

To answer your question, yes, it will sit higher. I have done this swap. You'll need to experiment with bracket placement to be sure it's going to be mounted comfortably for you. You'll be doing some drilling as well. Here's my post. It's not a write-up, but maybe it can help.

If it's just peeling, but otherwise okay, contact cement may work. Then you might want to clean it and wipe it down with a little mineral spirits and then apply a clear topcoat.

Yes.

I'm 55, but also 6' 4". I'm sure it will be an adventure!

Thanks. I was hoping that there would be someone who had done this before and would share their process from start to finish.

Folks, what I'm looking for is an "order of work" to start this. I have an 88 MJ. I run stock size tires, so I'm just replacing stock with stock. All of the DIY's I've found are for upgrading and haven't been a straight-up, basic, replacement vid or write-up. For example: Do I take the old booster and MC off as one unit? Is there prep before I remove anything? Plugging hoses, draining, etc.? There is plenty of info on specific tasks, but I'm not finding the "hand-holding", for lack of a better term, that guides me where to start. I hope this makes sense. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Brother, I live in the mountains. I've my brakes go out before. YES! I do need brakes!

I was at my local Restore recently and I ran across, what I think, are Jeep prototype hood ornaments. One for the Pioneer and one for the Golden Eagle?

Thanks! I decided to go with a reman from NAPA. This will be an adventure!

Okay, so I'm looking online at my options for this repair. I might as well replace the aging booster along with the MC. Now, I'm having to decide which way to go. Reman, new or rebuild kit for MC. I have no experience with this procedure so input is welcomed. I checked the DIY Forum, but only found posts for upgrades and swaps. Not a stock replacement. And @cruiser54 I'm reading that "Raybestos, Wagner, Bendix, Centric, Motorcraft and Delco brake parts are made in China/Taiwan. David Zeckhausen President, Zeckhausen Racing". Who's left?

Actually, I rarely "pound the keyboard". But, right now I need to address the braking issue.

Just some of the ground refreshing. I'm slow to get to it.

Okay, I did it! And now it's as clean as a dirty whistle! Can't be 100% sure, but I think it does run a bit better.

Oh, okay. Hadn't had a master cylinder go out on me. Didn't know the symptoms. Thanks! Any recommended parts brands? I'm not going to scrounge around a just yard for this.

One day my brakes are good, another day (today), the pedal goes almost to the floor! It still stops, but the pedal travel ain't right. 88 with stock system. The booster has been hissing since I got the MJ a couple of years ago. I cannot build pressure when the truck is on or off. Fluid level is good. Maybe the booster bought the farm? If so, is that a pretty straightforward procedure?

Sure. It's running now as long as I don't let her sit for too long. Then I have to do the ol' CPS unplug-n-replug. Ordering a new CPS today. Crusier54 can you verify that the grounds that I addressed at the top of this thread are all that are usually connected to the dipstick stud? I your notes, you mention quite a few components being attached there. I only had two connectors.

Thanks for the replies. Prior to the ground refreshing, I was having an issue with the engine turning over and over and over without starting. I unplugged and replugged the CPS and all was good for the past week. After the refreshing (Friday 6/25) is when things got worse. CPS trick worked again. It sat for three days, tried to start today and no-go. So, I tried the CPS trick again and it worked. Runs good, drives good. Just tried another start and it started after sitting for several hours. However, there is a strong fuel smell, but I don't see any leaks and nothing on the ground. I know I need a new CPS, but there is something else going on. I think.