NC Tom

You just found your problem. If the Moderators have no faith in their work, no one else will.

My two-cents as a casual member. I like the idea of a photo contest. The prizes are only an issue because I, personally, don't consider a discount on a luxury item for my truck a prize. The discount really needs to be half-off, minimum. Ideally, free. Now, I say this as a maker and business-owner, so I have a leg to stand on. I'll put my money where my mouth is as well. My current medium is wood. I would be glad to turn some shift knobs out of domestic and exotic hardwoods to be given away as prizes. Steel hitches and hand-turned wooden shift knobs are apples and oranges. I get that, but the point is, even if you don't want/need a wooden knob, you still won something, which is better than winning a chance to buy something. Make sense? As far as page views go, that's uphill battle my friend. CC cannot compete with FB. I have found Tap-a-talk to be a good tool for keeping up with CC activity. It can be a PITA, but not so much. I had not used it until I joined CC and I've had it for about six weeks. Getting "more eyes" is a simple matter of exposure. How do you get exposure? Sponsorships? That's a tough one if your forum is not a money-maker. Maybe members can offer options for more exposure? Also, I'm going to post my "Turkey" image this evening. And @krustyballer16, no offense intended by any of my comments. It's only my opinion.

Well, your sample page is more informative but, suffers from a severe case of "Function is Beauty." I good landing page needs animated flames, lots and lots of chrome textures and maybe some skulls. Or, if that's too extreme, you could just pictures of kittens doing cute stuff. I'm no help, I know.

I was just wondering the same thing.

Well, I never have been good at following directions, so I skipped to item 11. My throttle body was a black, crusty mess. I gave it a Seafoam cleaning and it does run better. The high idle is mostly resolved. I will go back and do tips 1-5. I thought I would just throw these current symptoms out there. From a cold start, the high idle is gone. From a hot start, it's a crap-shoot, but when I get the high idle it calms down after a bit. The idle increases some when moving auto shifter to Park.

Very nice! Wish I had your fab skills!!

A bit. My guy just replaced the whole cable and cleaned the terminals because of the voltage drop.

Are you ready for this crap? Are you sure? Well, I had the correct switch installed correctly the entire time. That's the good news. The bad news is, I'm a dumba$$!!!!! When testing the install, I just loosely attached the neg batt terminal. Of course, this was enough juice to power the accessories, but . . . NOT ENOUGH TO START THE DANG THING!!!! All I had to do was correctly tighten that dang terminal. And the real kicker, I knew that, but didn't do it! Many thanks for all the help offered and let this be a lesson for an ignition switch replacement. PROPERLY reconnect the neg batt terminal!

I'm in the midst of MJ resto myself. I would suggest you have a trusted mechanic give it a looksee. It will be worth a fee to have list of things from a pro. If the owner is not keen on that idea, walk away.

Well, if I can't get the stock switch to work, no way I'll get that to work!!! Be sure and document it.

Is there a write-up/link on the keyless option that can share?

Did not know that was an option. Hmmm.

Well, the CC has not disappointed! I really appreciate all the info/suggestions from you all. However, I must admit defeat and have the biatch towed. I'm not proud.

Maybe. Please tell me how to jump the starter. Sent from my HTCD100LVWPP using Tapatalk

It's oddball. I can get all accessories on and I can hear fuel pump. Nothing happens at all when turning the key farther forward to start. Turn the key back a little and I get two overlapping buzzer sounds. Turn key to lock, remove key and I can still power accessories. ?

What I meant was that it doesn't seem to matter because I've tried so many times to adjust the thing and my results are the same. Sent from my HTCD100LVWPP using Tapatalk

No, did not replace pigtail. Yes, there is some melt/burn. Yes, layout seems to match. Yes, pigtail only connects one way. Sent from my HTCD100LVWPP using Tapatalk

Right. I have yet to figure out why that matters. But, I'll keep trying. Sent from my HTCD100LVWPP using Tapatalk

Thank you for the link, HOrnbrod. It was a good write-up, but no help to me, unfortunately. Concerning the pigtails. So, everything that wasn't working previously, now works. But the one thing that was working, starting, doesn't. Can that really be attributed to the pigtail connectors?

I had posted earlier that I had the standard no signals, blower, wipers, radio thing. I removed the ignition switch and it was clearly fried. I picked up this part from NAPA this morning. Ignition Switch w/ Tilt Wheel PART #: ECH KS6622 I have spent ALL FREAKIN DAY on this bastard and I'm about to go Chernobyl!!! I have tried several different install methods. Everything works except it won't start. Won't even turn over. Was running just fine before I decided to try this supposedly easy repair. The only good thing is that I know the bad switch was causing the other problems, but I do not understand why this is so damn hard!! The other oddball thing is that no matter how I install it, the wipers and signals work without the key in the ignition. I keep thinking it's just the actuating rod and slider are not in the right position, but I have tried so many combinations, I can't believe that one of them didn't work. I have an 88, I6, Auto, tilt column. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

My update. I found leaks at the corners of my windshield. Added Permatex flowable silicone in the corners. Hope it works. My electrical was more problematic. As you can see, I found a slight issue with a toasty ignition switch. OPINIONS: Is it safe to use these melted plugs? Lastly, my high idle problem looks like a VERY dirty throttle body. Been spraying it with carb cleaner, but it's a stubborn mess. OPINIONS: Can I deep clean this thing without taking it off? If so, what should I use?

I'll be getting under the dash in a few hours. I did the ignition accessories test and my non working things don't work at all. If it's not the ignition switch, what/where should I be looking for other than obvious burnt wire? Sent from my HTCD100LVWPP using Tapatalk

" Test the power to the fuse box. If there is no accessory power on the hot side of the fuse you most likely fired a "fuseable link" under the hood. These are two places, one is at the relay center just aft of the battery the other is off the starter which are normally only for constant power. " A member posted this some years ago. Can someone offer a detailed explanation of how to do this test? I do have a multi meter, but I'm not very good with it.

Don't have that issue, but I had a Honda CRX years ago that had a mouse baked to the valve cover. I can't be sure, but that car seemed a bit sluggish after that!

Yeah, I'm just removing the trim and resealing the whole shebang.