NC Tom

Maybe. Please tell me how to jump the starter. Sent from my HTCD100LVWPP using Tapatalk

It's oddball. I can get all accessories on and I can hear fuel pump. Nothing happens at all when turning the key farther forward to start. Turn the key back a little and I get two overlapping buzzer sounds. Turn key to lock, remove key and I can still power accessories. ?

What I meant was that it doesn't seem to matter because I've tried so many times to adjust the thing and my results are the same. Sent from my HTCD100LVWPP using Tapatalk

No, did not replace pigtail. Yes, there is some melt/burn. Yes, layout seems to match. Yes, pigtail only connects one way. Sent from my HTCD100LVWPP using Tapatalk

Right. I have yet to figure out why that matters. But, I'll keep trying. Sent from my HTCD100LVWPP using Tapatalk

Thank you for the link, HOrnbrod. It was a good write-up, but no help to me, unfortunately. Concerning the pigtails. So, everything that wasn't working previously, now works. But the one thing that was working, starting, doesn't. Can that really be attributed to the pigtail connectors?

I had posted earlier that I had the standard no signals, blower, wipers, radio thing. I removed the ignition switch and it was clearly fried. I picked up this part from NAPA this morning. Ignition Switch w/ Tilt Wheel PART #: ECH KS6622 I have spent ALL FREAKIN DAY on this bastard and I'm about to go Chernobyl!!! I have tried several different install methods. Everything works except it won't start. Won't even turn over. Was running just fine before I decided to try this supposedly easy repair. The only good thing is that I know the bad switch was causing the other problems, but I do not understand why this is so damn hard!! The other oddball thing is that no matter how I install it, the wipers and signals work without the key in the ignition. I keep thinking it's just the actuating rod and slider are not in the right position, but I have tried so many combinations, I can't believe that one of them didn't work. I have an 88, I6, Auto, tilt column. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

My update. I found leaks at the corners of my windshield. Added Permatex flowable silicone in the corners. Hope it works. My electrical was more problematic. As you can see, I found a slight issue with a toasty ignition switch. OPINIONS: Is it safe to use these melted plugs? Lastly, my high idle problem looks like a VERY dirty throttle body. Been spraying it with carb cleaner, but it's a stubborn mess. OPINIONS: Can I deep clean this thing without taking it off? If so, what should I use?

I'll be getting under the dash in a few hours. I did the ignition accessories test and my non working things don't work at all. If it's not the ignition switch, what/where should I be looking for other than obvious burnt wire? Sent from my HTCD100LVWPP using Tapatalk

" Test the power to the fuse box. If there is no accessory power on the hot side of the fuse you most likely fired a "fuseable link" under the hood. These are two places, one is at the relay center just aft of the battery the other is off the starter which are normally only for constant power. " A member posted this some years ago. Can someone offer a detailed explanation of how to do this test? I do have a multi meter, but I'm not very good with it.

Don't have that issue, but I had a Honda CRX years ago that had a mouse baked to the valve cover. I can't be sure, but that car seemed a bit sluggish after that!

Yeah, I'm just removing the trim and resealing the whole shebang.

Thanks for the replay. The smoke was coming up from behind the gauge cluster. Over top of the temp gauge. So, my list of non-working items: Heater/Blower, Signals, Wipers, Radio. Those I know for sure. I read that those guys are all linked together somehow. I'm still reading on that. Tomorrow will be "MJ Day". I'm starting with a windshield leak test. The leak happened overnight during a hard and heavy rain storm. The truck was just sitting, so I think the windshield seal is a good place to start. From there, I'll take the bench out and look up underneath the dash for, what I don't know but, something that doesn't look right.

Thanks for all the replies. I guess I have to check all the things mentioned. If the windshield is leaking, can I reseal it somehow? Also, any thoughts on the smoke and no radio, heater, signals issue?

Pete, is there a diagram or something to show where a drain problem could be? The carpet is only wet on the door side. Not underneath the dash. Sent from my HTCD100LVWPP using Tapatalk

Lots of rain yesterday in the NC mountains. Discovered a puddle of water on my passenger side floor. Door seal, I guess. But the big problem was a thin smoke trail coming from behind the temp gauge and my heat, signals and radio died. WTF? Sent from my HTCD100LVWPP using Tapatalk

Yeah, yeah, I know.

I figured you say that. Well, guess I'll be dealing with it for a while longer, unless the TPS can be cleaned or tapped-on or some other bandaid.

"88 Comanche Pioneer Renix, I6, Auto, 4WD 200K+ miles" I don't know where to put the model info in my profile. I was thinking TPS too. I'm really squeezed for time to do any trouble-shooting currently. It doesn't help that I don't have a garage. Wondering if TPS can just be replaced now and trouble-shoot, in a few weeks?

Renix I6

I've been reading through the many, many posts on fixing the high idle at start-up. I was hoping that if I post my specific issues, the pros here could help narrow it down. It's been doing it off and on for a while now. I mean around four months. Started quite suddenly after getting a new muffler. I have no CAT, but don't think it's related because the CAT was already bad. When it was doing it, if I drove a bit, it would calm down. However, maybe three weeks ago, it didn't calm down. Was high, and a bit scary, on my 20 minute commute home. It was like having cruise set to 25 MPH non-stop! Has not acted up again until this morning. I tried to shut-off and restart to get it to quit, but no luck. After about three tries, it would turn but not start. Can you flood a fuel-injected engine? Had to take the wife's car. Anyway, guess I'll check it again this evening. So, based on that story, anybody have any ideas where to start. I know there can be several pieces to this puzzle. Thanks.

Adding life to this topic. I too have a bad vibration when braking hard or above 45 mph. I have new shocks to install soon. However, if it's just the front rotors, what would be preferred, turning or replacing? And, other than bushings, ball-joints and shocks, what other suspension components should be looked at?

Right. I'm talking about some aftermarket ones I have.

I too was wondering about using a heat gun. Hmmmm.