Airborne Janitor

I've been waiting 4 years for this, my little girl is finally big enough to ride in the MJ with me! This is the Graco TurboBooster Highback Booster Seat, sells for about $60 at Target/Wal-Mart, for some reason Amazon had it for a little over $40. Fully adjustable for height and the back is removable for when she's tall enough to not require it anymore. She was pretty comfortable riding around in it I think.... Anyways, I know the demographic for car/booster seats here is pretty small, but I was so excited I had to share!

What are the issues your truck is having exactly? Was it running well before it wouldn't start? Hard start, rough starts? How did it drive?

I think ultimately it's gonna depend on the MJ. For someone going for a more classic look, or don't like the thick black lines on the Oracles, OEM is gonna be the way to go. For someone who has a heavily (resto-) modified rig, or has a more "modern" looking MJ they might look cool. I think they would look better on an MJ with a 97+ front end than on the classic header panel myself. These aren't swaying me from the Key Parts replacements, but I want those silver trim boys...

As the topic states, is this possible to do yourself without it looking like crap? I watched a few youtube videos and the results were....unimpressive, using RIT or Duplocolor Upholster Paint/Dye. I want to dye my bench seat so it's a little darker shade of grey, you can see how light it is compared to the rest of the interior. Bench seat cover is in pretty good shape for it's age so I'd rather not replace it, plus I'm cheap.

Does she make you watch the Apple Cup every year? I always remind her that the Cougs generally lose that game haha!

East coast humidity can be pretty brutal, especially in the summers. My wife (who has lived in WA most her life) once asked "what are you supposed to do with your clothes that get lower back sweat on them in the summer?" haha, you deal with it!). Spokane is ok I guess, I've never been to Palouse Falls but my wife has, she went to school down at WSU.

Only because the climate here is way more friendly to sheet metal. When I moved to Spokane I couldn't believe how many classic cars were on the road. I attribute it to low humidity and the use of chemical de-icer during the winter rather than salt. I bought my MJ for $900 because I thought I would never see another one...I should have waited for one with better sheet metal honestly. I grew up in the south VA-GA and I remember seeing a few MJs in the late 90s/early 2000s. I remember going to the pick n pull and seeing a few of them everytime during those years....If only I could go back with a trailer. Lots of Washingtonians on this board, mostly west siders but a few on the east. Welcome.

My last house, I worked in a 2 car garage that had plumbing capped off, so I added a plastic utility sink. I miss having that shop sink, so easy to clean up crusty parts or wash your hands without touching any house doorknobs. My shop now is detached from the house by about 30ft, but the entrance into the house is right into a basement bathroom with shower, so that's been nice.

Ultimately it depends on your main process(es). It's like pipe welders using pancake hoods. For what I do (50/50 MIG/TIG) the plastic auto-darks are great, and I like the larger viewing area, but I'm a tabletop welder. Do you run a lot duel shield in that profession? Ever seen those dudes in 3rd world countries welding through a beer bottle or a fixed shade lens taped to a piece of cardboard? Gnarly! Hey I just got an idea for a video, the WORST welding "hoods"!

They look like they fit perfectly behind/under the seats without sacrificing too much of the cargo area.

What kind of subs are those? Do they have an integrated amp or are you running a separate one?

Replaced the charcoal canister filter with WIX 42998. Old one was TOAST! Details here: And a new WIX 33486 fuel filter for good measure:

Happy New Year everyone! I started the year off with a little bit of redneck auto body work: S#itty bondo job by a previous owner... Nothing a little duct tape won't fix! Got some custom Comanche door decals made: Then added a bunch of bandaid stickers to the major dents in the body: Added a tailgate decal: Installation here:

I'm going for a dark blue + silver/chrome look on my MJ. Decided to put on a silver JEEP tailgate decal from Graphics Express/Phoenix Graphics, who are an OEM authorized reproduction manufacturer. Of course my tailgate is 30 years old, has been repainted (poorly), and has scratches, nicks, dents, and wasn't very straight. Sanded the raised letters with 1200 grit to knock down all the high spots (from dirt and dust being painted over). Wirebrushed the rust scratches and prepped with acetone. Used Bondo spot filler to fill in the scratches and level out the letters. Sanded everything down with 500 grit moving to 1000 grit. Used the "wet" method of vinyl application using soap + water, a squeegee, and heat gun. Fixed one bubble by piercing it with the tip of an xacto knife and smoothing it out. Final result: Video with more you'll ever want to know about vinyl, from the perspective of someone who hates installing vinyl (I really do!) ENJOY

I've got one, well 3, but I figured you would want the best of the 3. None are in perfect shape, the first has some chips in it, the 2nd is discolored, and the 3rd is cracked (but can be repaired. I did it to another switch with the same crack). Do you just need the switch or the pigtail too?

If you're gonna weld, get 240v regardless of your welder or what you plan on welding. Performance is much better than 120v even on lower settings for thin metal. I promise you won't regret putting in 240v, but you will regret running any welder off 120v if you're welding often. You'll never say "I wish I never put in that 240v outlet". I did alot of reseach into that Maxline air line kit, seems really cool and inexpensive for what you'll get. There's lots of youtube videos of reviews and installs of the stuff. I'll be building a table for grinding/prep work this summer with casters, so I can push it out of my shop and do the dirty work outside.

If you're gonna get a welder make sure you have a 240v welding outlet. If you don't have a 240v outlet in the garage, find out where you want to put one in so you know where your welder will have to be. Then build your fabrication workspace around that. Plans for an air compressor? Route your lines now before you start putting up walls. Same with electrical. Looks like you have a pretty tall ceiling, possible storage options there? I built a loft area in my shop which is very nice for storing Jeep parts.

Dynamat is nice but they're real proud of their name. I used it in my XJ years ago, then used Kilmat https://amzn.to/3GPST7U on my MJ. No its not as thick as Dynamat, but it works just as well in my opinion and it's way cheaper.

Bringing this post back from the dead. One of my goals for 2023 was to start a YouTube channel documenting things I do in my shop, from welding/fabricating, working on jeeps/my comanche, DIY stuff, etc. I made a review video of several of the hoods I've owned and what I think is the best bang for the buck. Cliff notes: Miller Classic Series is a great backup hood, Miller Digital Performance costs too much, Vulcan ArcSafe is awesome for the money, ESB Sentinel is a waste of money.

What he said basically. I've been running the same injectors you're putting in for many years now and remember lining them up with the o-rings was a b!tch, vasoline helped. Here's a photo of my fuel rail/injectors. What screwed me was losing one of those rectangular "clips" for the injector, had to run to the junkyard just for one of those.

Remove the speedo gauge from the cluster, one screw in the bottom right corner of the face and two on the back. Once the gauge is removed you can see the inner workings of the odometer on the back. There's a tiny gold c-clip on the left of the odometer that has to be popped off. I used an x-acto knife and put the tip on the inside of the "C", then pried up enough to create a gap to put a pick in. Then I pried the pick to pop out the clip. http://i.imgur.com/7UGPFc3.jpg Easiest way to adjust the numbers is to face the gauge towards you with your fingers operating the backside. Start from right to left, opening up space between each number enough to rotate the digits. There's some more info in this writeup-

It looks like someone put another (cut down?) leaf under the main leaf.

Ok. Hes got a shortbed tho. Doubt someone went and swapped in MT springs..

What year was the changeover? And were all metric tons LWB?

I think you have an extra leaf spring or add-a-leaf in the spring pack. Stock springs were 3+1 overload, metric tons are 3+2 overload.