Airborne Janitor

So I combed the deserts of the junkyard today to see if I could find a replacement latch for my rear slider. I checked all domestic manufacturers (dodge, gm, ford) and the closest thing I found that would work came off a 1994 Ford Ranger. This particular latch sandwiches the glass with a pair of screws that can be accessed by driving out the small roll pin for the latch and removing the latch handle. Discard the screws and outside mounting parts as they won't be used (unless you know of a way to drill through tempered glass). Installation was easy since my original latch was completely missing. I just scuffed up the mounting surface of the latch, cleaned the mating surfaces with alcohol and used 3M 1" double sided tape to secure it. Time will tell if I need to use a stronger adhesive but so far so good.

So here's my current setup. A little redneck... No cruise, no AC, no heater control valve. Using the smaller late model XJ "vacuum football" with the single port. Checked all the lines under the hood, no leaks. Thinking about replacing the vacuum football with the HO XJ model...

I replaced my ignition switch and then had got some OEM key blanks off ebay. Took them to a local locksmith and made to match. I put 97 doors on my rig so I had to get a separate later year Chryco key made for that. One of my favorite mods tho is having Jeep branded keys.

Dude I put some spray silicone in the track, then used a flathead to pry the slider open, now it works perfectly! Go figure after almost 6 years of owning this thing it turned out to be simple! Now my next question is how hard is it to swap out the middle slider glass? I would like to swap mine out because its missing the latch and has a deep scratch in the glass.

Just did this to pull a one-piece rear window with a few modifications. I used two vice grips, several strands of .035 welding wire cut to about 1-2ft, a box cutter with extra blades, an awl, and some spray lube. Pulled the headliner to make it easier to access the upper glass, so remove the upper A and B pillar trim. Also pulled the rear trim piece on the lower glass that's just held in with plastic rivets. Score the window sealant with the box cutter, cutting as close to the glass as possible, on the two sides and top edge from inside the cab. Push the awl through the seal through one of the top corners, then shove in a piece of .035 wire. Spray some lube around the outside of the seal where you plan to saw. Grab the ends of the wire with your vice grips clamped down, then saw down through the side until you get to the bottom edge. Be cognizant of the welding wire as you saw because it will heat up and break. If the clamped ends of the wire break just reclamp your vice grips, I had to do this several times in stubborn spots. Saw through both sides and the top. Now you should be able to pry the glass out to where you can cut the bottom sealant with the box cutter easy. Once I figured out this method I had the job done in under an hour.

I have recently acquired an excellent condition one piece rear window. I already had an extra very good condition sliding rear window that even has the pull tab/latch intact. My MJ doesn't have AC (one day...) and the current sliding rear window is stuck and the latch is broken, so I basically have a one piece as is. One of these will be going in my MJ and the other will probably be for sale. I wanted to weigh in on everyone's opinion first tho, pros and cons.

89 LWB MJ 4.0L. Block is from a 91 but has a renix head + components. All the old vacuum assist 4x4/CAD components have been removed. She's got a 97 XJ dana 30 front axle with AW4 + NP231. No AC. No heater control valve. 95 XJ brake booster. Using the smaller "vacuum football" with only one port. All EGR/airbox/vacuum lines are installed. Years back I did the axle/tranny/tcase swap, along with pulling the dash and replacing the heater core/seal and hoses. All the heater/vent/defrost options work fine, blend door works fine. But when I get down on the accelerator (going up a steep hill for example, or merging on the highway) air will begin to blow out the front defrost vents. If the heater or vent was on, air will stop blowing out those vents and be diverted to defrost. If the heater/vent was off then air will begin to come out the defrost vents regardless. Once you come off at accelerator everything returns to normal. Does not seem to affect motor/vehicle performance. Any ideas?

Here are my junk yard cliff notes: DASH REMOVAL - remove lower dash panel - remove courtesy/ashtray lights - disconnect TCU - remove wiper control unit - remove steering column nuts - remove gauge parts - remove hvac controls (push away) - remove speedo from cruise [opt] - remove headlight switch (underdash) - remove timers/switches (underdash) - remove ground cable - remove trim above dash - remove upper dash bolts - remove lower dash bolts

Put in the GM/Caddy style switch instead. Reference here:

So no low fluid sensor port on the aftermarket? That's strange. Yeah that plug looks like I'd be easily obtainable from a pick n pull, or silicone & tape it shut.

Here's some photos of the OEM reservoir. The front hole where the Low Washer sensor goes is about 7/8" diameter. I think you measured the hole on top of the reservoir which is closer to 1 5/16" and is just capped off. Closer photo of the Low Washer sensor/plug.

Was looking around the shop and I think I have a factory plug if you want it?

Will it fit in a large USPS flat rate box? Only $20 to ship. 24-1/16" x 11-7/8" x 3-1/8"

Looking for an OEM XJ or MJ transfer case skid plate. See pic for reference. Thanks

Thanks! My plan is to go with a blue & chrome look. I want to get aluminum wheels and an aluminum tool box in the near future.

My MJ got a facelift! Put together the DIY Mojave bumper kit from Dirtbound, swapped out to some clear corners, and added a set of Hella-ripoff horns. And one of my favorite mods to date, I got some OEM Jeep keys made up.

Just leave the factory plug in place if it doesn't leak. You can disconnect the pigtail for the sensor.

There was someone in the for sale forums that had a nice Renix cluster for sale recently too.

Hopefully the red arrow piece is still in there. The spring shouldn't be too hard to replace. I wonder if the retaining clip/cable fell off your steering column... If you have an 88 likely you will have the plastic clip on the speedometer. Loosen the grommet on the firewall from the engine side to give yourself a little more wiggle room if needed.

Theres a little spring in the indicator that pushes the red arrow all the way to the left side. When the clip/cable is removed from the steering column the arrow becomes hidden. Once you hook the cable/clip back up you may have to adjust the position to get the red arrow to line up. When you put your MJ in gear and rotate the column shift down it pulls the cable to the right/down to move the red arrow. It will make sense when you see it.

I've been playing with fire by not having any bumpers on the MJ while driving it, so I decided to go ahead and put the Westin/Fey 63000 series bumper on the back. I didn't have any usable hardware to mount the bumper so I had to order the Fey 93900 kit to install it. I wasn't really happy with the output of the license plate lights so I stuck some LEDs in there. Overall I'm happy with it, especially since I got the bumper/brackets for about $200. In the future I would like to build a heavy duty steel step bumper, but for now at least she's got a butt.

Overdue for an update. Long story short, I got the rear drum brakes put back together with all new hardware, replaced all the bearings in the dana 30, put it all back together, bled the brakes and hit the road. First time I've ever put a full tank of gas in it. Just in time for $5/gal! Had a new school Gladiator try to flex on me. Nice short bed bro. Got the spare tire winch put back together and yes, a 33x12.50 will fit as a spare, but just barely! Added a ratchet strap for extra security. Dusted off an old pair XJ flares and got them mounted up. The holes in the pre97 flares line up perfectly to the holes in the 97+ fenders, so I used some 1/4" bolts to secure them. Cut the flares squarely by tracing the line with a set of 97+ flares. Threw in a 30 tooth speedo gear and now I've been daily driving this pig! Got it up to 80 mph without issue! If you squint your eyes it almost looks like one color! There's still much to do, including fixing the high beams (they don't work), replacing the turn signal switch and ignition switch, bumpers, and eventually gears, bodywork and a paint job, but I'm happy to finally be driving this thing after 5 years.

Everything in the front suspension is the same. Leaf springs in the back are different sizes, but you can use XJ shackles. If you wanted to use his lift you could do a spring over axle conversion in the rear which would get you 6"+

You reminded me that I actually have the 89 FSM. I was able to dig up the correct wiring diagrams and test the junkyard tach from the diagnostic port. Unfortunately it didnt work.