Green Mesa XJ

Oh, the jeep I’m thinking of is in Pensacola florida. Pretty much kills that idea. Even if I bought and sold him everything needed for less than the whole jeep cost , the cost of freight would be prohibitive. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I was going to say something similar yesterday. Kind of feel bad for the OP the way the thread changed. Hey where is the OP located? I know of a 86 XJ with 2.5 not running with ax5 and np207. I wanted it for a project. But if he serious and close enough by it might be just the ticket. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Do they have a specific kit for the mj/XJ ? The only way I know of is to retro fit everything from a Jeep with ac, engine and dash harness, HVAC box with evaporator. Wranglers seem easy to add ac to. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Ive gotten some for $75 plus shipping. $150 is about average for some junk yards BTW 87-90 21 spline 231 are usually fairly cheap Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Cool. Are you doing the 3.4 keeping the Camaro efi and ecu? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I have no idea what gears and tires they were running. It’s just a complaint some 2.5 guys had about the ax15 swap. The 2.8/3.4 guys never mention anything like it. But we’ve got 3.73 axels for the most part. I’m going to be doing the ax15 231 swap on my 2.8 XJ, the ax5 207 lasted over 300k miles but it’s tired. Ax15 is a great transmission for these jeeps. To me it depends on what the owner needs, if it’s a KISS swap grabbing the ax5 with transfer case is the way to go, more ambitious plans then the ax15 with all the tweaking and fabrication would be the better for the long term. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Those 207 for the automatics were 21 spline or 23 spline? I’m thinking automatics were 23 spline. Something is probably different since the parts look up has the np207 automatic and manual different. I’ve got an automatic 207 I bought for parts but no way to compare it to the manual 207 right now. The ax5 needs 21 spline, 231 would be a nice upgrade. I’ve not had a bad experience with the 207, it’s low range is pretty good but sounds funny as hell. Thing I hate about it is the speedometer gear is a reverse cut gm deal and impossible to find as are most 207 parts. 231 has a world of support and many options. Just a great choice. And plenty of years to get the parts from. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

It’s a common complaint from those who have done the swap especially if they travel a lot on the highway. The ax5 is geared to work better with the 2.5 power bands, with the AX15 on the hwy in fifth the engine rpm isn’t at the right place to maintain speed on a hill or pass in 5th, even crawling using first and reverse the ax5 gear has some advantage. Ax5 1st 3.93 2nd 2.33 3rd 1.45 4th 1.00 5th .85 Rev 4.74 Ax15. 1st 3.83 2nd 2.33 3rd 1.44 4th 1.00 5th .79 Rev 4.22 For a street car you probably wouldn’t notice the difference, on a under powered jeep that is struggling with automatic transmission it might be a issue. I guess it Depends on how they drive and where. Ax15 is strong enough a 2.5 or 2.8 shouldn’t be able to kill it. On paper the ax5 should be able to cope with the power as well but many have trouble with it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Ax5 are very common, just a ax4 with a fifth gear. about any year ax5 from a XJ or mj will work. It’s the same transmission in 2.5 wranglers too but the rear housing is clocked differently so the transfercase does not hit the body. I’m assuming you have 4 wheel drive, 2 wheel drive there is no problem with clocking. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The fact the timing was far advanced is worrisome. Did he time it correctly? Toyota had a two pins in a block that had to be shorted to kick the computer into timing mode. When it’s not in that mode it moves the timing around a little with rpm and the distributor advance. Should be something like 5 maybe degrees (maybe 8 to 10) with the two pins shorted. Off the top of my head low power I think of a clogged cat converter. Bad MAF, O2 sensor, fuel pressure, distributor, timing chain, TPS Not sure what plug broke I was looking at a picture of a 22re I can see the TPS but can’t see what’s underneath it. BTW those Toyota plugs just disintegrate over time. That 22re motor might just be at the end of its life, compression test might tell you something. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Ax15 with a 2.5 could feel more under powered. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I know XJ well enough to say but I’m not sure about MJ. I’d imagine it’s very similar to the Wrangler. This thread might help. https://comancheclub.com/topic/34536-diy-e-brake-fix/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

That’s the bulk head plug, maybe the wrong term. But that’s where the engine wiring harness plugs in to the dash harness. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Could be one of two sizes if it’s still close to factory specs. M22x1.50 or M14x1.25 Doorman has two parts numbers I can’t tell what sizes they are. 090076 & 69016 I bought a doorman replacement drain plug for our 90s XJ 4.0, thought I was getting one for the price but got a whole box. Not sure where they are or I’d get you the part number for them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Yeah the old GM alternator jeep used in the 80s with a built in regulator is fairly simple wiring. My preference would be to figure out the issue with the 93 alternator, but if you can fit the Renix alternator then maybe it’s not an issue you need to mess with. Unless there’s something else wrong with the PCM. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

With 1986 you’ve got likely engines of carbureted 2.8 Chevy v6, 2.5 i4 I think throttle body early Renix, or a Diesel engine. The v6 is considered all round kind of crappy and low on power, easy swap of a 95 3.4 v6 out of a Camaro into it. Now I’ve have a 2.8 5 speed with np207 transfer case I’ve put a lot of miles on, and beat the hell out of with no problems. others aren’t so lucky with it. The 2.5 is the little sister to the 4.0. Decent engine but not a lot of power. Diesel I don’t know a thing about. Transmission are ax-5 manual , or 904 automatic. If 4x4 Np207 transfer case or the np228 select track, with Dana 30 front axel with vacuum disconnect. None of those combinations are real desirable. These can be replaced or upgraded, also many never have trouble with them I put my Jeep through hell and those parts never failed, although the rear Dana 35 axel did, several times. I think the older jeeps are easier to work on than the newer. but something like carburetors are a PITA to get right if your using the factory set up. All kinds of aftermarket kits to make it more tunable. For just driving around town you might get by with whatever the factory engine is. Your not going to have abs or traction control but the oem 80s jeep is not like trying to get a 1950s truck to have road manners. It’s not that far off the 90s standard and plenty of upgrades if you want to modernize. Just depends what you need in a car. Far as brakes and other maintenance items like hoses, brake booster and master, water pump, power steering fluid, radiator fluid, just plan on replacing it all, 30 years old hardly driven, I’d bet most of it is going to be bad. Problem with the 86 mj is it was a year before the 4.0 became available and it’s a major pain to retrofit it in to the 86. Easier to put a v8 in. I wouldn’t shy away from it, actually kind of like it better and like the challenge. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Couldn’t you just swap in a HO cluster, get the plug with it and rewire to match the oil, temp, fuel, running new wires to hook up the HO speedometer and tachometer? I know the fuel values are swapped, there are ways to work around that, and the tachometer signal goes through the PCM, but I think the rest of the senders are the same wiring path 84-early HO. Meaning they don’t go trough the PCM/ECU. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Little black box? The external regulator? I’m not sure how the external bypass was done. Not a uncommon problem. There are kits and plenty of instructions. My guess is something is wired wrong or failed in the external set up. Maybe it never worked, might be the reason it was sold as a donor car. I’d try to match up the part # on the box you think is bad or get one of the kits and redo it to their instructions. Battery cables can be another big issue. the 93 PCM ought to be pretty cheap to find used, rebuilt will still be expensive, used should be fairly cheap now a days. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Very nice project. On the seats the Covers and cushions I believe are the same but there’s a adjuster that’s unique to left and right. If this doesn’t bother you, just unbolt the seat mounting bracket and swap sides if you need too. Took a lot of searching to find set of good seats for my old 85 XJ. Most drivers seats are worn out or water damaged from either the seals not working correctly or the door glass missing. Personally I really like the 84-94 XJ buckets seats with head rest, not too sure about the later jeeps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Just a quick update I finally got around to replacing the POS TYC blower motor. Found a made in the USA new old stock motor (ACI 331831), man what a difference! Noticeable difference in how the motors look too. New motor was without plug in and blower wheel so I reused the plug and squirrel cage from the TYC blower motor, only good parts on the damn thing. Only excuse I can think of for the TYC motor being so awful (besides its crap) is maybe they wired it wrong for clockwise /anti clockwise rotation, to anyone thinking about the TYC I’d warn you it has poor power and is built wrong, avoid it and find a made in the USA motor if you can. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

No “Max AC” means you should have a none AC Jeep. Or none ac control unit. The heater/ac controls are 1986-96 interchange. Only the 1984-85 have a different vacuum switch. I’ve had older cars rot out the vacuum harness for the HVAC, and was lucky enough to find a factory replacement, it’s color coded so I guess if you had to it’d be easy to make your own. Our 91 does the same kind of thing with vents switching to defrost, the default safety measure, on a big hill going into the city. The rest of the time it’s fine, and I haven’t tried to recreate the problem since I replaced the intake/exhaust gasket. I’ve checked all the vacuum lines under the hood and replaced the vacuum reservoir and it still had the problem. Far as I could see the under dash vacuum harness was ok. But like I said ours only does this occasionally so I’m not sure where the problem is either. I’ve never removed the AC control unit to check the vacuum switch. BTW I can’t tell from the picture where the cracks are. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Don’t have books in front of me however in one of these fuel gauge threads I posted they 84-90 fuel gauge ohms, the reverse 91 up where the AMC empty is Chrysler full. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

There are three options, export, police, and neither police or export option. Regular none police 242 Hollander part #412-00332 Looks like 97-01 XJ ZJ 96-98 Try hollander parts, they are the company that run the software and interchanges for junk yards. Online they don’t break down the interchange real clearly but often sellers have a picture of the part . https://www.hollanderparts.com/used-auto-parts/2000/jeep/cherokee/transmission/412-transfer-case-assembly/412-00332-new-process-242-(selec-trac),-w-o-export-package You can run that part # on eBay it should have a few hits from junk yards selling there Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Yeah I agree about the load. Once it’s up to speed it’s just spinning freely, takes next to nothing to maintain it, sort of like going down hill. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Just went over the 1988 Cherokee wagoneer electrical trouble shooting. That mystery relay and wires in not a part of the factory cruise control far as I can tell. Even in the dash and body harness and plugs I don’t see anything like it. Nothing like it is mentioned in trouble shooting either Only thing I can’t see is the jumper they describe for automatic transmissions. Does the rest of the cruise control plug is correctly to the factory harness? If so I’d test it to see if it works, I’d almost bet the p05010002aa is not part of the factory cruise control. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro