Green Mesa XJ

Not 100% sure about the wiring, the comfort/power switch you don't need it, after 1992 jeep locks all XJ to power mode. The switch changes RPM where the transmission shifts. You can jumper it to always be in power mode, which more XJ owners seem to like. I'm not sure what the system does if there is no switch wiring or what the basic minimal wiring you'll need is. http://cruiser54.com/?p=435 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

There are a a few videos and manuals on the ax-15 online. Far as I understand it the swapping the the outputs is very involved, but you're disassembling it anyway so.... doesn't seem like going that much farther . I'm not a expert on the ax5 and ax15, but I've been reading on rebuilding them cause I've got a 90 ax15 I'm going to convert my 85 XJ to. Tempted to pull it apart to rebuild it first but it out of a running XJ that was supposedly shifted smoothly. Anyway if you look at how the gears are arranged in the case I've been wondering if 1st through 4th gears could be removed and swapped leaving 5th and reverse and output tail shaft alone. If it can be diassambed that way I'd think you could pull and replace gears 1-4 from the 2wd to the 4wd without much hassle. Hopefully somebody who knows these transmissions better will say for sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Um, that 2004 may be ok. Supposedly 2002 2 dr sport explorers is ok and SportTrac from production date Aug 19 2002 to June 28 2005 are ok to use, 31 spline and the same as the 1995-2001 axels. I don't know this info first hand, read it online, I'd check the axel codes and maybe measure it to double check. Info can be found here http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/are-you-considering-the-popular-ford-8-8-swap-92569.html#/topics/92569?page=1 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Is it better to do the lock out by moving the fork so it's always engaged or buy/make a disconnect eliminator kit? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Not sure if you're doing a conversion but you should reuse that spacer, if it's just a flexplate swap you're current plate probably has the spacers I just use them instead . I think my 95 motor from a junk yard had two spacers front and back of the flex plate. I figure it help keep the flex-plate in the right position for the CPS or something. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I think it was what was available in the OPs area. While I like my old 85 XJ I'd never recommend it to somebody new to MJ-XJ. Even if they are hard core jeepers there's a lot of oddball stuff that later years are either improved or easier to find parts for. I would take on a 86 only knowing there'll be a ton of things I'll want to do to it starting with pulling the motor out whatever it happens to be. Then update the transfer case and maybe transmission. Stock can be fine but I've learned I'm not happy with what was stock in 84-86. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

saw your other thread with pictures of the MJ, definitely not a 86 set up, missing all the emissions crap (better off without it) and the alternator and ac compressor are later GM serpentine belts instead of V belts. Looks like you've got the crappy jeep/chevy carburetor bolted on to what I guess was a later gm 2.8. From what I can see looks like the crossmember and transmission mount would be correct for a factory ax5, which probably explains the ratcheting strap holding the transmission in. Maybe be a mutt of a combination of engine and transmission slammed into it but it's a nice looking MJ. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

It looks like a PO slammed in a later s10/Camaro 2.8 and transmission to me. The exhaust and oil pan also look wrong to me. But the casting number will tell the tale. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The bellhousing is the GM 2.5 & 2.8, I think it's for a GM T5 or whatever the 4 Speed equivalent is. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

This is a bad photo of the usual spot gm puts the casting number, Passengers side under the exhaust and above the engine mount. The other spot at the top of the timing cover on the block behind the power steering On the block I got a photo of the casting number is not there, but where the 2 is , is other spot where the casting could be. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The block cast number should be passenger side of the block top near the front sort of behind the exhaust manifold . If it's not there it'll be drivers side front of the motor near the top of the timing cover, usually you have to remove the power steering pump bracket to find it. But that looks like a one piece rear main seal which is GM 85 up, if it has a mechanical fuel pump on the drivers side of the block is is a 85 gm block that a few 86 MJ and XJ got, sort of a odd mid year casting. However I suspect it is a newer than 85 block,meaning somebody dumped 1987-90 a s10 but you'll need to find the casting number to get the details. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

If it's just a very shallow striping and the majority of the thread is there it will still bolt the balancer up. First timing job I messed up the first few threads not understanding how the tool worked so messed the first few threads up. In my defense I was young, the tool was missing the proper stopper to press against the crank and it was on a GM 2.8 so nobody cared ;). If it's badly screwed you can try to tap it, worst case if it's truly boned its replacing the crank. Not sure, how demanding fixing the threads will be sorry. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The 86 with 2.5 should be a renix. The amc 2.5 and gm 2.8 jeep used in 86 aren't real powerhouses but it the load if fairly light it should be fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

There are instructions out there to turn the wheels with the engine off and others with it running. Last gear swap I did both until the steering started to feel normal. If there is a lot of trapped air the fluid can foam with the pump running. At least that's one of the theories. If it's still not working maybe the pressure side is blocked off some how Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Nice! Thanks for the update! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Is the transmission from a 2002 wrangler compatible with the transfer case and bellhousing of a 90 MJ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Exactly what cruiser54 said. Whatever you do Do not use a flush. The key is to slowly remove the build up by dissolving the sludge. The rotella is Diesel oil with a lot of great detergents. Run it in a couple of cars, including my inlaws that was neglected for 50k without a oil change. Every fresh oil change there's signs of improvement. A flush will only succeed in freeing enough debris to clog the oil pickup tube or do something else just as nasty. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Sorry I'm probably using the wrong description, cabin fuse box it's the roundish looking things that click at the flashers work. I've had those fail, had a messed up fuse box from the previous owner . But you've found you're not getting power to the dash fuse box so that's the real issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Even if it would fit it would be clocked wrong for the transfer case. Used to be wranglers used the same AX5 transmission except for the tail case clocking. Not sure about automatics or what they switched to after ax5 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Those little hazard relays could be bad. If the turn signals work I'd swap the clicky relays (I forget what they are called) and see if hazards come back. I don't know what the colors mean for the brake switch, however it also involves Cruise control, the torque converter lock and unlocking, and the brake lights, not sure which one that wire is for. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Kind of looks like a plug to a ABS pump, which you don't have, if you did it was removed, I'll look at our XJ when I get the chance to see if I can see what it does. In the fuse box under the hood, check fuse 13 to see if it gets power. I think that one is where the power for brake and hazard start. Other possibility is bad grounds but since you not getting power I kind of doubt they are the culprit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Just did some google searching apparently the brakes and hazards do have a wire running to the battery terminal that can corrode away and just drop off. Yours should look something like this. The top lines on mine are for a cheap headlight harness, one big line goes fuse box, one big line goes to the starter. The next oem line has a black plastic clip for fuse or something, I'm assuming this is for the brake lights. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Is this an automatic ? If it's a standard transmission sounds like the fluid got into the fuse box. I'm trying to think about how the power is routed. The fuse box by the batter has several leads going to the battery. Maybe something in there. Once the power gets to the fuse box I can't think off hand of anything that would stop it going to the hazards or brake lights other than a fuse. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I think you can use the regular cable driven 87-90 set up. I believe the 91- up has the electronic sender attached to the the regular speedometer gear. I can't see the rock auto link on my phone Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

This might help some, it is how the PCM sets the idle. I would probably check the MAP next then the wiring and ECU/PCM