Green Mesa XJ

If it were me I'd probably just fix the clutch and get it going. I'd pull the ax15 and line the parts up if the BA10 dies. It'd be good to upgrade but on the other hand it's a headache in a vehicle you don't know the quirks of. If if you knew the transmission were bad I'd go with the ax15. weird I thought you said there was a transmission in the passengers seat when bought it. Don't know where I got the idea they sold it with a spare transmission .

The ax15 is a good idea but depending on the year the input shaft for the transmission is a diffrent diameter. Usuly become a PITA to locate the correct bearing for the crank journal. I think the correct on for those who have done the swap it's off of a wrangler. if you get the ax-15 from a 90 XJ ,MJ the input shaft will fit easier will be easier to source parts for. Novak has a good break down on the differences, they say 88-91 ax15 have the 19/32 pilot tip and 92-99 have the 3/4. I've heard it was 1990 for sure on ax15 in XJ & MJ, with maybe 1989 being a split year. http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/manual/ax15 Its not a bad idea to swap it out but you might be ok with a new clutch and hydraulics. I'm a little concerned why they sold a spare transmission with it.

Take a look at this thread one of the pictures has the identification of the Peugeot transmission, which is factory for 1987 mj with 4.0. I was curious what transmission they had for a replacement, usuly just another Peugeot but some upgrade them while doing this job. its an involved job but nothing to be worried over. I'd be more worried finding all the bolts to the stuff they detached already. Make sure you've got enough clearance to get the transmission out, other than that it's follow the the steps. It's a good jeep to keep on the road too. Kind of project I love, but I'd rather pull the motor than transmission but that may be just me.

oh, to separate the transfer case, with the transmission attached to the engine and hanging down you can get the 6 bolts hold the transfer case to the transmission. Or or you can leave it all together and separate it later after the transmission is out

They were taking the transmission itself apart? does the new transmission have a seam in the middle? Like left and right side bolt up to make the housing.. to drop it you'll need to remove the crossmember holding the transmission up. Big beam in the middle of the jeep. Hold transmission up with a floor jack or transmission jack then slowly lower it, disconnect the transfer case if you have one. Get the bolts on the bellhousing, remove starter, and separate from the engine, lower and remove. i can't think of anything really difficult besides reaching the top bellhousing bolts, ratchet with long extensions is usuly the key. They may be torx head bolts at the very top of the bellhousing, not sure on the 87.

Are you sure the transmission is good? It should be that Peugeot transmission. if you have the time and funds upgrading to a ax-15 with external slave cylinder would be a good idea. far as a normal clutch job the normal tool should be sufficant (standard socket set and wrenches) The clutch alignment tool should come with you clutch kit. There may be a a few tricks to this era transmission, not sure when the torx boltsat the top of the bellhousing came into the picturel

I've had the brake light switch at the pedal melt the wires on the 85 XJ, then I had a windshield water leak that fubared the fuse box on top on the previous owner had a clutch master cylinder leak. There was a fuse that had bad connectivity that affected the brake lights. I want to say it was the hazard fuse. It may be marked hazard/brake, I can't remember for sure.

Did the OP ever update? Reminds me of of when I was a teenager my buddy had to have a certain Mustang, convertible and it had a certain spoiler and wheel combination. The one he bought was not the real edition just mad up to look like it. The guy he bought it from got it at auction up north, you could tell it was wrecked at least twice, also rode hard. He over paid, put new paint, new roof, loud exhaust, 3 or 4 transmissions. Didn't get his money out of it when he sold it but still misses that car today. For every vehicle there is the right buyer just a matter of finding them. far as cost to upgrade, I know I've put more then my old jeeps are worth just repairing them. Any upgrade I know is never going repay me more than the stasfaction of having it done and using it. I don't plan on selling my jeeps either. Already got two kids deciding on who gets which of my jeeps, very prematurely I might add. But I don't mind spending on something I own and plan to keep. I think some of those customizing shows give people a bad idea of what their rides can be worth. It's not like house renovation when you get real value added at resale time.

Look a little off to me. But not quite like a wrangler. Or at least the wranglers i can google a picture of. is it absolutely seated correctly?

If the fittings are perfectly square maybe you miss aligned it.

I've heard of people who do the swap in the XJ have trouble with the position of the shifter. Not like this really. Some trim the Dakota bellhousing to fit properly it. Many say buy a aftermarket shifter. i can't think of a good reason for it to be like this unless it's a Dakota or Wrangler shifter. how did you separate the shifter haves?

There are some things I am wary of, the engine swap being almost identical to the milage it's supposed to have now along with some of the details he doesn't give. Claiming $5000 for a 11 year old axel build doesn't mean much to me. On the other hand I doubt the MJ had much use, at least not from the details carfax freely provides. To me this restoration is looks centric. Whatever is easily seen has a fresh coat of paint, while the engine bay looks like a 25 year old vehicle, and both engine and transmission were replaced when those are usually pretty solid. Maybe it started life as two wheel drive? As for being truthful I can easily believe he dropped as much money as he says he did, which is money you normally never get back. But if he's done the work like you'd want to do yourself and you have the finances to buy it then you maybe the buyer for this jeep, it's a considerable amount of time, effort and money to make the MJ look as good as it does. If it's exactly what you would have built then he saved you years of building. As for price, personally I'd be willing to walk away if you can't come to an agreement, especially if you're talking cash. Just keep in mind if you later decide it isn't for you and want to sell it you'll probably never get your money back even with meticulous documentation. There is a reason he has not got his asking price after some time on the market and his friends who gave awards to the jeep haven't grabbed it. Not saying it's not the right MJ for you just you don't have to deliver on the sellers expectations. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

you'll need an actual carfax report. MyCARFAX maintenance history has it as around 123000 as of May 2017, but the free history only goes back to 2014 mostly Virginia inspections. Strange it's hardly done any miles since 2014, it failed safety inspection in 2016 then passed the next day. It did a few hundred miles was serviced in November 2016 , between then and may 2017 it did 3000 miles. But between 2014-16 it didn't get much use. A true carfax report may give a more detailed history and you can verify the milage if it's been inspected. Personally I don't think it's worth all that much, but I don't know the truck market for lifted and other upgraded vehicles. What I've seen is most of the time people pouring the money in never get it back when it time to resell. May have $13 grand is parts but it's a still a $4-5 grand jeep. I'd rather buy one oem and build it myself. But it is a sweet looking ride, although my gut feel from the pictures is a lot of attention was paid to looks and not as much mechanical. Engine looks untouched, which is good cause it's a 4.0 shouldn't really need anything. But it also sat unused for a hell of a long time and I wonder why. It could be it was a project jeep, and we all know projects take time and free cash, owner deployed military, or it could be it was messed up (suspension, axels, engine, transmission) for a long time. Just my 2 cents. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I'd thought every junk yard would have a dead MK3 Supra. (Jk) The Nissan straight 6 is I think their old 280z and the R32 skyline, think skyline is the only one with factory turbo. We got all the 300zx v6 turbos which might be a source. I'd think the exhaust adapter plate would be the trickier part to locate and/or fabricate. The rest like intercooler should be pretty much off the shelf. There is a guy who put a 7mgte engine (Supra turbo) in a XJ. Wonder how that worked out for him Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

0-60 is so subjective, it's fun but not always indicative of the power you have. Edit: you might look for 80s Supra and MR2 even celica turbo set up, those were set to fairly weak boosts 6-8 pounds. only thing is the some of the old ct26 turbos had radiator fluid cooling lines, many newer setups are oil only because (I'm told) newer oils are superior to the 70&80s Dino oil. Supra will have the straight 6 platform, so do some Nissan's, not sure which ones were imported here, other manufacturers may have a similar set up like old Mercedes Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I looked at one of the kits, actually looks more like a Toyota or Nissan straight 6 turbo adapted to the jeep. One reminded me of a ct26 or t4 setup. Maybe look for one of those cars in a junk yard to get the set up. On thing I do know is the Toyota 7M, 1jz and 2jz engine have the exhaust port on the passenger side and intake on the drivers where jeep has both on the same side, maybe why the kits place it there if they are reusing Japanese turbo designs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Um, I haven't seen the jeep turbo kits, on general the early turbo cars had trouble routing the air intake. Later designs use every inch of the engine bay to route the pips for intake, intercooler and exhaust. If the jeep turbo is all on the passenger side it sounds like they divert the exhaust to go there, U bend or something. Then a new down pipe and wastegate to the rest of the exhaust. Doesn't make a lot of sense aside from the passenger side is the only place where room can be made easily. I'd almost think supercharging or stroked engine would be easier. Just speaking for the turbo part of it a good turbo will set you back more than what you want to spend, you can get a Chinese kit but it'll be junk after too long. Everyone I've known who ran one never had it run for very long. Fun for the short term but it has to be caught before it self destructs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Thats a 1984-5 cluster. Idiot gauges with the fuel gauge where the tachometer should be. Metal clip to release the speedometer cable Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Had to get something out of storage managed to get a picture of the back of the cluster. Yeah I don't know a thing about cruise control and the 84-90 XJ, there are two different cable for those models . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Only picture I've got is of the peeling circuit board with my fingers blocking the view of the back of the cluster, luckily found a example on eBay, it's off a 84 and it's a little hard to see but bottom right hand of the speedometer is the metal retainer I had to push to release the cable. It blends in so it is very hard to see. If you look you can also see this cluster has the printed circuit board separating like so many of the early 80s XJ clusters I found. I don't think I'll find another picture of the back unless dig up the original cluster out of storage. Hope this helps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Crap found a wasp nest behind the headlight . Don't drive this one right now cause I'm in the middle of the thirty year rebuild, guess I'm still piecing it together for the last two years. Now it's down to time got almost all the parts. Damn I've had this jeep for 20 years this October.... where did the time go? Anyway I didn't think there was that big a difference between the style cables. I believe there was a clip on the speedometer I pressed to release it. I put the new cable in because the I think the old one was getting gittery and the lube didn't smooth it out. That and I found a 89-90 instrument cluster with full instrumentation to throw in. Turns out most of the speedometer problems are the np207 because of the stupid reverse gm speedometer gear they used. Even specialist shop don't carry them. I don't remember a huge difference in the cable connections except maybe the new style has the clip built in and the old was on the speedometer. In fact I think I used the old metal speedometer cable on the first replacement cluster for a 87 with the idiot lights. Just pushed it in place I think. I'll see if can find a picture of the back of the original cluster. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I don't have the original speedometer installed any more, the cable is still hanging on the body of the jeep because out of the sheet metal bolts that holds the clamp to the body stripped out, instead of cutting it out I left it. I can get a picture of the ends of the cable tonight, the cluster is in a box somewhere, it broke years ago started clicking over every tenth of a mile was a mile, had like 400k on the cluster by the time I swapped it, didn't take that long, I think body of the jeep now has at least 350k miles but any real sense of milage was lost when the cluster went nuts. Took this picture last time I looked at it I'll get pictures of the cable tonight Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Crown is showing 53009006 I'm pretty sure that's what the cable I replaced looked like on my 85 XJ. At least the pictures on eBay have a two metal ends. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Hell mirrors and other standard equipment now was considered optional extras. Being a truck there used to be all kinds of loopholes for safety standards trucks didn't have to meet. If that is a factory set up then This maybe be why. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I've bought from that guy before, Rob is ok. I believe your wiring is the same except for the power for the pump. I had to search to find a 86 XJ sender for my 85xj. The original tank and sender were kaput. had to mess with the plugs to get the 86 sender to work 85 was a two prong plug, 86 is three planning for the fuel pump used in the 86 2.5 and then 87 up. The 86 plug worked with the 91 pump and sending unit I connected to the body harness plug to test the fuel gauge and wiring. I think it will work for what you want to do but I'm not 100% sure on the mj, just assuming it's similar to XJ. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro