Green Mesa XJ

Reset our 91-2 XJ 4.0 Never had them idle so low after reset the throttle had to be feathered, it does take a drive or two to get back to normal. This last spring I rest the 91 took two drives to feel normal, I figure it was the full operating temp back to cool cycle that did it. I thought reset was set over a certain number of start and stop cycles, but the only info I can find is for the OBDII jeeps and those are like 50 start and stops. everyone else I know who has reset the early HO ecu notice it driving differently for the first few drives, but it doesn't seem to be milage driven reset, or operating time, my guess is once the full range of operating temps and conditions finishes the rest, I could be wrong about this reset voodoo. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

No. Well only if you have the skills to disassemble and swap the parts between them or hook up the transfer case with only the rear output connected. The 2.5 engine 4speed and 5 speed are interchangeable through many years MJ, XJ , YJ. The AX5 is a AX4 with fifth gear not that big a deal to use either one just match it to your drivetrain. Rear output in 4x4 is designed to bolt up the transfer case and then 2 wheel drive connect directly to the drive shaft so all of those output parts are different Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

As long are both 2wd or 4wd it should work and the rear cases could be swapped to maintain the correct clocking, or drill it. I never have good luck trying drill material like aluminum. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Could just swap the rear housing from the ax4 to the wrangler ax5 then the clocking would be correct. I'm assuming the ax4 & ax5 rear housing are the same. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Sorry that's going to be junk yard only unless you need a power antenna. I needed the rubber grommet the antenna wire goes through the kick panel, hunted and hunted trying to find the complete antenna assembly because that grommet is only available with the antenna. eBay may be an option, maybe one of the member here might have a spare. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

That video makes it look like the upper shifter handle just easily pops off the lower part of the lever. NOT SO. It's REALLY on there. I've tried separating them in a vise and couldn't do it. The shop foreman at my dealership told me there was a special tool for the job, but they never used it at the dealership and they eventually threw it away to make room for newer tools in the tool crib. yes sir. I've never been able to separate any of my shifters, I don't know what shifter they have in that wrangler I just wanted to show the OP what the last clip retaining the shifter was like. I heard there was a special tool for separating both shifter haves, never seen a picture of it. Supposedly some have used four screw drivers to separate it, also heard of using pickle fork and BFH. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Oh I thought he was asking about how to separate the shifter halves. To pull it out once you can see the top of the transmission and have removed the last rubber boot there is a round clip that has to be pressed down and rotated it springs out once it's free, some are harder to move than others and under more tension. Mine i used a pair of players and a screwdriver to manipulate it. Here is a video on that spring clip . You can ignore most if it until it get to that clip, it's on a 97 wrangler with ax15 but it's pretty much the same this for the ax4 Edit the video link didn't past Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I was looking and don't see a NOS motor that cheap Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Return it! I had the same problem but I waited too long to get to the project. The cooling port is clock wrong and you'll have to be creative to make it work, the manufacturer does not include the hose as pictured in the description (contacted rockauto about this), I used two jeep cooling hoses to make it work. Shouldn't have bothered Its a crap motor I need to replace it because the kids don't get enough air in the back (XJ, mj if there are kids In the back they got plenty of air), the different speeds are only slightly more powerful than the next and max ac cools the front just enough but the volume of air is less than the factory motor pushed. I'm looking at vdo pm272 as a replacement. Rock auto sells it as does autozone, someone else (pep boys?) sold a fan under that number but if you dig it's a four seasons fan part #, which has mixed ratings Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

It can also clog at the nozzle. I've had to replace them because they wouldn't clear no matter what I did although more often its slime in the water tank. No idea how bacteria grows in that stuff. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Ecomike at NAXJA just had a thread examining this, he wanted to "water board" his engine. Water board was a joke referring to a old school solution using water to remove carbon. I've use seafoam in the intake similar to the instruction above and in the tank. When I had to do the exhaust & intake gasket the intake side was clean for a jeep. I want to say it was cruiser54 who recommended Mike use BG44k, supposed to be better than seafoam. But if you've already got seafoam it works for what you want to do, I didn't know it came in a aerosol spray I've always seen it in the regular cans. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

This link has something about fixing the horn on a 91 XJ https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/horn-help-56024/ Looks like that matches the description of where they relay is located in the 91. To the right of the steering column on the lower instrument panel trim. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Not sure about the 91 on the 85 the horn relay was by the fuse box and the seatbelt chime. When I got it the electrics were a mess from a clutch master leak, the horn didn't work. Had to replace the horns, then the relay, when I did that I could touch a wire in the steering wheel and get the horn. Eventually I replaced the steering wheel with a better one with a easier to fix horn button. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Ok here is the answer to a question probably nobody was asking. The 95-98 ZJ booster looks very close if not identical to the 95-96 XJ. Maybe the XJ brake actuation rod is slightly longer, didn't have time measure because a thunder storm came up. Also don't know why the brake masters are a bit random. The 95 XJ and WJ look the same and the 97 looks likes another WJ brake master I have in the parts box. Spent just under $60 for used 95 ZJ brake booster and 95 XJ booster and master. These pictures are of the 97 XJ brake booster and 2002 WJ booster This is the back of the boosters Far right with no brake master is the 95 ZJ, next to it is the 95 XJ booster &master, next is the 97 XJ booster & brake master, at the end is the WJ booster & Master. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Vapor return is my first guess too. On the xj there are two plastic inlets with a rubber grommet sealing them at the top of the tank, those can break or have the like pop lose easy enough. On a 91 XJ there like a y splitting line before the tank , the main rubber line goes back to the frame to a metal line that looks like a brake line and that goes to the front of the jeep then back to a rubber line and to the fuel system to recycle the vapors in some models . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Jeep/Chrysler generally uses the letters to denote a change in designs, sometime ever so slight. Like for a sensor 56xxxxxxAB, next iteration of that same part ends in AC then AD and so on. When I swapped a 2012 motor in to a 2006 jeep I checked the part numbers on the 2012 if they were the same except for the last letter being higher I'd use the newer part and it worked fine even though some parts look slightly different to their 2006 counter parts. BTW I thought the axel hub bearings were the same 4x4 Dana 30 axel from like 91-01. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Being what this vehicle is if the fuel pump works it may just fire up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Yeah make sure you're working on your jeep otherwise you're just being generous with your time and money. If the body is good and the frame isn't rusted I'd buy it. But then i would be prepared to throw new motor and electronics in it if I had to and I have most of the parts stored for the some day I need them scenario. So I guess but it low enough you can see putting money into it to fix it. On starting vehicles that have sat for years I like to put fresh oil and filter, pull the relay (or whatever) supplies power to the fuel and crank it to get the oil pressure up. It's a trick for working on a car with a oil fed turbo. We'd crank until we'd see the oil pressure gauge show movement. I've started engines that sat for a long time without priming the oil too and never had a problem. But now I like to try to prime the oil at least a little. Fuel system may be your biggest problem, old gas can varnish and clog. Three years isn't good but might not be as bad as I'm thinking. On reallly old vehicles that have sat for a long time, pulling the tank and replacing it, lines and filters usually works out the best. On this I'd check what is in the tank by siphoning out some gas, Replace the filter, not sure on the MJ, but on the xj with the filter off I could power the pump and put the fuel line from the tank into a bucket and pump it out. If you're lucky the gas was low and since evaporated out and you've got an empty tank too add fresh gas and fuel cleaners to. If it were me I'd probably try to work in the engine first, pulling the power to the fuel pump. See if the engine will run (various way to do this without the fuel pump and injectors firing) Then get the fuel system up to par when you know the engine will run. But you're going to have to look for rot and rodent damage. You'll also need to change the fluids for just about everything. Good news is the transmission is a AW4 and was used 87-01 with various changes through the years, so it's pretty stout. Bad news is it's a 30 year old jeep and even if some parts were ok when parked it might not be ok now. You might not be so bad off because it's only sat 3 years . Take some pictures or videos, I'm sure some other people here will have better ideas on what to do getting it running. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Lose bolt and/or brake booster hose. Air is bypassing the throttle somehow. To test Spray some carb cleaner (or equivalent spray ) around the intake where it bolts to see if it changes. Oh one weird thing on a 5.0 mustang my buddy had a freeze plug like deal on the intake fall out. Never noticed anything like that on a jeep Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Far as I know the cases are essentially the same, except some kind of switch in the rear output in the late 90s. I'm not sure how to tell the difference unless a part number is still visible. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Once those hinges go they're gone. I did preventive greasing/wd40/ whatever was handy for years on a 91 XJ. Drivers side hinge froze up even damaged the hood a little. This was 3 maybe 4 years ago but I was able to find a new hinge,. the swap was fairly easy. Hoods not all the heavy, did the job by myself. I think the part # is 55235724ad If the 97-01 XJ hinges work then there more than plenty are out there. Far as adding gas struts it really wouldn't matter far as the hinge seizing up . You'd still have to fabricate the motion that hinge does then reinforce the hood enough to take the pressure of a gas strut. I imagine adapting something similar to a commanders hood lift would do the trick, I believe the commanders hood is lighter but the principle should be the same. Here the thing my 85 XJ hinges are still perfect, that jeeps had more use and abuse than the HO jeeps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

If you can find a junk yard with a jeep old enough. Around here if they have a XJ it is newer than 97 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

If you do a search on eBay for Comanche speedometer cable a number of them show up. No results for that part number, On place says it was superseded by 04897728AA, 53009003, 53006183 I would try to look up Crown parts too this seems like the kind of part they would have. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Inside the portioning valve there's a o-ring I believe to restrict/control the brake fluid pressure to the rear drums. When I did this swap converting to rear discs the common knowledge advice was to remove the o-ring. When I read up on the swap recently that was no longer the advice,. People say leave it alone and some claim the part numbers are the same even for the ZJ with rear disc. Plenty of folks a running rear disc with no changer to the proportioning valve so I'd say leave it be unless you have a problem. Here is a link talking about it, remember is old advice now, I'd probably leave it alone, more likely to break it than have it go right. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Proportioning_Valve_Mod.htm Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I zoomed into see the part number, looks like 52008648(6?) 52008647 is the omix-ada 84-96 XJ/MJ booster and master kit, which looks essentially like the 95-96 XJ booster. Your booster looks almost exactly like the Omix booster. 52008646(?) comes back to 1995 ZJ and a 1996, I'm wondering is the 95-96 (maybe 97-98 too) ZJ are essentially like the xj booster. The 93-94 ZJ booster definitely look like the wrong one for the xj. If the ZJ 95-98 are a source it could be easier to find than the 95-96 XJ. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro