Dzimm

That was the way I'm leaning. I can find new 99+ XJ fans for $50 each but I wasn't looking to spend $100 on this project, was hoping for much cheaper. Used ones in the junkyards around here cost the same as the new ones... I hate that the yards around here pull for you, so dumb.

My 92 is missing the mechanical fan shroud so I've got to buy something either way. I figured I might as well delete the mechanical fan and AC compressor to get more power out of the truck since it's being built for the street. I'm finding so much conflicting information on what the stock fans cfm is, what cfm is required for the 4.0, what's worked, and what doesn't. No info seems to match on any forums anywhere other than the Taurus fan works but I don't really want the fan to hang below the rad as I need that space for an intercooler in the future. I also don't want to upgrade the alternator so amp draw is a factor for me. My question is, does anyone run dual/triple electric fans with success, or know the actual cfm numbers for the stock fans?

Well I decided to try the electrolisys thing on the strap bolts. I have a newer battery charger that apparently is "smart" enough not to charge if it doesn't detect a battery so I tricked it by adding a spare battery in the mix. It's bubbling so I guess it's working.. I'll see what happens after a few hours

Finally I was able to get enough work done around the house to get working on this truck again. Getting it pulled into the shop was a chore since my back alley had snow and this truck is 2wd. I shoveled it out and still got stuck. Luckily my neighbor came out and helped me get it unstuck. While the wood stove was warming up I went ahead and replaced the ignition cylinder since it could be started without a key. Wish the new cylinder was metal like the original but at least it can't be started without a key anymore. I didn't have the special tool to hold in the steering lock ring so I used my puller and some washers and big nut to hold it in well enough I was able to get to the c-clip. Of course my lockring pliers didn't go narrow enough for the gap so I had to use needlenose pliers and a flathead but it worked. I also got the old fuel tank removed. It wasn't as hard to pull as I expected. Looks as though my original fuel leak was from the filler hose but my large leak that came up a couple weeks ago was due to a puncture under the rear tank strap. I decided to paint the new tank with some Rust-Oleum bed liner to help protect it. I also have a factory SWB tank skid plate I was going to install on the blue truck but I've decided to put it on this one since it will be lowered and I don't want to replace this tank again. I'm probably going to wait until spring to get that cleaned up and installed. I'm going to replace the hoses from the old tank and breathers because they were in pretty bad shape, I'm still torn on replacing the filler hoses because they aren't in terrible shape. I'm reusing the fittings on the top of the tank as they are in really good shape still. The fuel pump in it was replaced at some point with a Bosch unit and it still works so I don't plan on replacing it. The sender is in good shape as well other than the mounting face of it, it isn't rusted through but it's not in the best shape. I will do what I can to clean it up and give it a fresh coat of paint. Thankfully all of this means the only other thing I need to get is a set of J-bolts for the straps as the new straps didn't come with them and the old ones are pretty rusty. Maybe this is a chance to try that electrolisys thing I've seen people do. I don't plan on reinstalling the tank tonight so I'm looking around for anything else I can do to it and trying to decide what order I want to do things. Biggest things right now are: - Fix the passenger door because it doesn't unlock or open anymore from the inside - fix or replace door lock cylinders, only the passenger one works. - radiator appears to be leaking slightly (if I do this I want to do valve cover gasket, remove AC rad, replace thermostat, water pump, exhaust manifold, and freeze plugs while it's all apart). - Relocate alternator up top and remove AC compressor and maybe remove mechanical fan to make room for turbo stuff. Thinking about dual electric fans. - cut some spare coil springs down and install those along with XJ shackles I have - Install the ignition coil relocation kit I got from HOrnbrod - Start work on the air dam (I got both styles of early 90s S10 air dam to work with and some extra front XJ flares to creat a similar flow into the lines of the front flares) - redo the exhaust from muffler back because it's from a different vehicle and comes really close to the rear diff. I've got a flow master super 44 muffler on the way to go on it. I've got a month or so yet as this truck won't leave the shop until the snow is gone for the year but I'm not sure how much money I want to drop on it right now.

I suppose a disclaimer is in order, I have a 97+ distribution block in my 92 so unless the fittings are different between that and a 96-, the Amazon kit has what is needed.

25 Ft. of 3/16" (4.75 mm) Copper Nickel Brake Line with Fittings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01801G45A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CKIACbGT4AVVH The 25' roll is $28 on Amazon and comes with all the fittings you will need and then some. Put this on my truck and would highly recommend it. Super easy to work with. The 25' is enough to do the whole truck if you remove the load sensing valve, if you retain the valve you will need more line.

In that case, go drill a 1/2" hole in the front of the cat, or a couple smaller ones. See how it drives after that. Gonna be loud but will tell you if that's your problem.

This is my guess as well. Had the same symptoms in my 98 XJ. It would fall on it's face quickly but have no other issues at all, just wayyyyy down on power. Go underneath and bang on the cat and listen for rattling, if it rattles, you know it's your issue. If it doesn't rattle, it's still probably the issue.

Didn't the 231 come out with the XJ? I thought that was in all the XJs and assumed it carried into the MJ.

The console krustyballer16 posted is the same dark red color (maroon) as your interior. Not sure if the language is translating properly for you but it's the color you are looking for. The lighting in the picture makes the console look brown but it's going to match the plastic of your steering column.

Commandtrac is the more common part time 4wd (NP231) transfer case. Selectrac is the full time 4wd (NP228/NP242) transfer case. The NP242 came out in 1987 so an 86 MJ with Selectrac would have the older NP228 case.

Rubbing alcohol won't do any damage to them. Just wipe with clean water when you finish. If the paint turns out to be something other than acrylic, sanding with fine sandpaper will take it off and won't damage them.

This is good info to know. I mostly see people just say the kits are bad but never actually say why or what parts are so bad.

More more we need more! From what I can see in the video, it looks pretty clean. We need to see the rest for sure tho! I say clean it up and keep it stock. I've never seen a diesel wagoneer before and from what you describe this is optioned with, this thing sounds like hens teeth to me.

I'm just curious because I don't understand why everyone bashes the budget kits. Have you actually had first hand experience with failures of these kits, and what failures did you experience? I've run both a Rusty's kit and a Rough Country kit for many miles and never had issues with either. I don't wheel them hard so that may play into my success with them but they do get used regularly enough that I'd say they perform well enough off-road and on-road for a budget build. This is strictly a curiosity thing, we really don't need another thread arguing about these kits.

Crop

I'd agree with the above. Definitely try to get it a little cheaper but take it either way. Could make over half your money back on the tailgate and lights alone. Not sure where you are but if parts aren't rusty (cab corners, bed, ECT.), even if they are beat up, will sell to us in the rust belt. I myself would take some cab corners if the price is right.

Same for me, no rubbing with the Rusty's 4.5" kit and included lowers, that are of good quality. I'd imagine it would be the same with a 3" kit.

I looked around when I first found it was leaking a few months back and it seemed to be coming from the top of the tank but on the frame side so I really couldn't see anything. This time, the entire driver's side and rear of the tank was completely soaked and steadily dripping. It had even soaked the frame rail and it was dripping out of the front leaf spring mount. I'm guessing it rusted through somewhere up top because the tank is pretty much covered in rust. I got probably 9 gallons or so out of it so it should only have a couple left in it. It stopped dripping so I'm no longer worried about gallons of gasoline spilling all over my garage. I've got a new tank and straps on the way from Rock Auto, I will drop the tank soon and order any other parts I need.

What do you guys do at 2am on a Saturday?

So I drove my 92 today for the first time in a while. It previously would drip fuel from the top of the tank if I filled it completely. It was by no means bad and I figure do had some time before getting it fixed. I planned on doing it this spring. Today I filled it to about 3/4 tank like I've always done and used it to haul some stuff. It's been sitting in my garage now for about 12 hours and I've got a 2'x2' wet spot under the tank and I can see the fuel dripping. The tank is soaked and I can see the fuel seaping down the side of it and the leaf spring perch is also soaked and dripping. I put a couple foil pans under it to catch as much as possible but what options do I have with a leaking tank with prolly 10-12 gallons of gas in it? I also can't do much as far as driving because we are about to get another good helping of snow over the next few days. Edit: I think I already came up with my solution and feel kinda stupid now but I'm gonna try to syphon some out and fill the other vehicles. Most are pretty full tho so we'll see how much I can get out.

Yeah I only know of one junk yard that is a you pull around here and it's in Des Moines. I've never actually gone there but if you call, they only have a vague idea of what vehicles they have. If they do know they have the vehicle, they couldn't even tell you if it had an engine in it still and forget about them going to check for you. That's been my experience with them anyway. Most yards seem to crush regularly now too, so they don't hold much for inventory. Cheapest I can find an XJ leaf is $65. That means $130 for a set of rusty and sagged springs.. no thanks.

Yeah my old 98 XJ springs were inverted when I changed them out. Those actually fell apart after they were removed so they got junked. That's some good logic I suppose for the 3" going the other way. That's kind of what I was wondering, if there was other vehicles that would lower it that I could keep an eye out for.

Do you happen to know what height drops can be achieved with switching the MJ main to an XJ pack? The yards around here want too much for a set of springs for me to just toy around with.

Any meets near central Iowa, I will be there. Anything within a couple hours I'll try to make for sure. I like Eagle's idea of looking at Jeeps and sharing some drinks