Dzimm

By on the inside do you mean the engine bay or the cowl. The lines go through the firewall, and into the cowl. Pull the wiper arms off and remove the cowl screws. Pull the cowl off and you have access to the cowl. Plug your hoses back into the cowl cover and put it all back together. It is easiest to do this with the hood closed.

Yeah in all honesty that isn't a bad price at all since you include shipping. And of course everyone could fab something like this for cheaper, mostly because they spend their own time and don't have to ship it. Lol. Some people just don't get it. There is definitely a market for these, don't let the immature children discourage you.

They look good. I could be wrong on this but I think they would be most useful for light impacts since the footprint on the sheet metal is so small, I can imagine that anything more than a light scrape will cause the whole quarter panel to buckle around where it is mounted. I do have to say it is probably stronger than just a factory quarter but not quite as strong as the full size rub rails. Some people may also like the look of this over the full size ones, I myself think the full ones look a little rediculous on some rigs. As long as your priced well based on what the full size rub rail panels cost, I think it would be a good product.

Wow, glad your OK but a sad day for Franken heep for sure. Like stated above, beat the roof out and keep driving it. Also I'm a little confused as to how you could bend the pitman arm before anything else. Throw a new tire on it, beat the roof out, inspect it thoroughly, and take her for a spin.

OK that makes me feel better.. And yeah, 3/8 seams crazy. I did find that my exhaust contacts the crossmember, which is the source of my vibes I was feeling. That actually led me to discover the axle movement. Guess I'll just drop the crossmember and use the BFH to massage the exhaust out of the way and call it fixed! Thanks!

Here is a picture for reference. Not the best but it's what I took when the cover was off. Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

So I've discovered I have a clunk in the rear axle of my truck. It's is caused by about 1/16"-1/8" of in/out play of the axle shaft on both sides. From what I read, the c-clip axles will have some slop in them, up to 3/8" is supposedly OK. That seems like a lot to me and want some clarification on this. It would make sense to me that once the diff/gears are all installed properly, the play should be gone as they would push the shafts out. I just had the cover off and everything seemed tight and in good shape internally. My question is, is this slight play truly normal or do I need to disassemble the diff and replace things?

This does not work for me. I'm running Firefox as my browser, what are you using? I can't see them at all on Chrome either.. I've even tried going into the code for the web page and pull the link but that didn't work either.

I like this idea a lot but I'm sure that they would have a different price for a "company" compared to an individual. And In my opinion we shouldn't support a company who shafted everyone like Photobucket.

Finally got some time to post on the thread. Friday I went and picked up my driveshafts, and wow did he do a good job. Painted and everything. He even threw in 2 sets of ubolt style straps for free. On Saturday a buddy and I got the rear shaft installed, bled the brakes, and spent an hour adjusting my nss and throwing the one on from my white XJ before realizing my shift linkage was off by a gear.... Fixed that and then took her for a spin! First trip was down the lane and back. It seemed good so I swapped the wheels from the white XJ and went in to town get gas. Filled the whole tank up and have no leaks there. I did discover a small oil leak coming from the pressure sensor adapter but I believe I got that fixed. The only problems now is a leaky bleeder screw on the drivers front, and I had to pull the driveshaft back out to be shortened another inch. It was just short enough to work but too close to the tcase for comfort. I fear that if I bottomed the truck out it would slam into the tcase. I may need to install my tcase drop because I do have some slight vibes at about 30 mph but that may change after the shaft is the proper length. I'm really happy with the truck overall. It drives great, it's gone 40 miles so far and up to 65 mph with no death wobble and the alignment isn't too bad surprisingly. Only CEL is for the lower O2 sensor that I don't have. On Sunday I got the evap canister installed as well as the door speakers. I ordered my paint last night and that should be here on the 22nd. I'm still trying to figure out what to do for flares. I want flats but don't really want to spend the $400 on a set that only kinda fit in the rear. I found a thread about using Avek pvc board and they turned out really good but I can't find anyone who has it anywhere near me, so that's still up in the air. As for tires, I'll be running these until I save enough money to get both this and the Commander new ones. On this I'll be running 33x10.5r15 BFG ATs. Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

I doubt it will bolt right up but there is quite a bit of metal structure in there you could make new holes if you need to.

That's the cheapest I've seen those online

Short answer: No. Long answer: No. Especially not if "road" includes rain or snow or ice. I guess everyone has they're driving preferences. I have cooper stt on the jeep and it does fine for me on the road and off (dry/wet/snow- studs or chains are the only way for ice). In fact, I prefer a mud tire where I live due to the fact we get a ton of rain and I don't like hydroplaning. In my experience going from the les Schwab "avon" brand AT tire to a procomp extreme mud terrain years ago, I had much improved wet weather traction and I could hardly break them free from a stop.. literally. On my ford I have a somewhat agressive at, the cooper st maxx. Again the large tread voids let me blaze thru standing water without a hitch. Tho they have 40k on them now and a little less than half life, the accelerating from a dead stop spiritedly will spin them, but normal driving is good. Come this fall I'll be putting on the stt pro Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Yeah I've come to figure that myself as far as people's preferences. Ive also really noticed that most people have experience with only 1 or 2 specific tires and it comes down to either they love the first pair they got, or they hated the first and love the second. For my application it really came down to the BFG AT or BFG MT due to the limited options in this size. I have recently been able to see them side by side and will be going with the AT. They really don't look much different from each other. The main differences I saw was that the AT has a few more, slightly smaller lugs and is siped. For me the ATs will be perfect. If I were to do more offroading with this truck, I would go with the MTs but quite frankly this will only do minor offroading in dirt and snow and very little mud.

Are they true Eliminator wheels with the studs around the outside? Keep them as a set if possible. I bought one Eliminator wheel from a junkyard in Colorado and had it shipped to Iowa for a total of $75 iirc but I imagine you would expect less than that per wheel for a full set. Especially since you aren't a greedy junkyard. Do you plan on keeping the truck after she moves on? If so Id keep the wheels because you will kick yourself later when you want them back.

So this is what I got, don't know a lot about wiring diagrams, can I just match the colors up on this harness to my original end it will all work? Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Click the links we posted above to see what colors to match up. That's the plug to work with but the wire colors will be different.

Oh that's a good point. I'm not sure how the regulators would react. Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

You'll probably be just fine, just don't expect long battery life with the truck off and the lights on. If you want a bigger alt, go to autozone and ask for a new alternator for a 98 Jeep xj (for some reason it doesn't show up when you look it up under MJ), they will ask what size, pick the bigger one. It's 140amp and you'll have to do some, not a lot, of grinding on the alt bracket for it to fit. Upgrade your battery cables to handle the higher amperage and your good. Your other option is to do a dual battery setup along with the upgraded cables. I am doing a second PDC to run my accessories, in a factory fuse box on the drivers side, along with a dual battery where the air box goes. This is by far the more expensive route. All together I will probably have close to $1000 in all the equipment necessary to run my electrical setup. This includes the cowl intake kit to remove the stock airbox, full cable kit, bigger alt, second battery, fuses, relays, solenoid, etc.. This is the way overkill route and gives you tons of upgrade room.

I'm sure it does and I'd prefer to have it myself. As long as you don't yank hard or lean on the steering wheel all should be OK. Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VITON-FLUOROELASTOMER-Disc-Rubber-Gasket-Material-9-inch-Disc-x-1-16-1-piece-/261556610601?hash=item3ce5fd2629:g:LygAAMXQ1d1TJIwF This is what I used. I just cut a hole for the steering shaft, obviously it's not a perfect seal to it but it works well enough. Glue the outside to the firewall and your good.

I ran into this problem myself. I actually bought a dense foam disk on ebay and used glue and rtv to seal it to the firewall. It was described as a scrap piece from normal manufacturing of some government part. It's fire proof/resistant and works well enough to seal the steering shaft. It also doesn't seem to cause excessive engine noise in the cab. I'll try to find the link. Obviously the best option is to find the appropriate part but I spent weeks trying to find it to no avail. It seemed to be a JY only part and I didn't want to mess with trying to get one out.

Even on HOs some of the tips can be useful and it's a good read. Really the main take away I think is to check all your grounds. No matter what vehicle you have, when you have a weird electrical issue, check the grounds.

Sorry, on mobile, don't see the signature. Lol

Is there any patterns at all to your issue? More than likely you have a bad ground somewhere. I would go through and do all of cruiser's tips before doing anything else.

Oh dear lord no....... Been there, done that, hated it. I'd post a photo, but Photobucket is bringing the suck until I get time to download my stash and bail on 'em. A buddy at work has a Samurai. It is in really good shape and runs well. His daughter DDs it to school and work. It all depends on how it was taken care of its ENTIRE life. I do have to say though, he struggles to find certain parts and usually they are pretty expensive.

Short answer: No. Long answer: No. Especially not if "road" includes rain or snow or ice. Even siped though? I've read that the Toyo MT does well siped as well as the BFG km2s. However they are a little more expensive than I'd like... Ugh I hate buying tires.. Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk