Dzimm

This is a nice truck. You'd think with how much they paid for this, they'd know what it is... Lol

First off, are those cracks at the seams of those front mounts??? If so, they need welded back to the frame. From what I can see, these are factory mounts and shackles. Your new springs are definitely wrong. The first picture confirms this as you have the original leaf and the suspension at full droop, notice the shackle will hang perfectly vertical in this position. The fifth picture shows the new springs at (what looks to be full droop?) as well and the shackles hang at an angle forward. You'll need to get the proper springs to solve your issue. When the weight of the truck is on the suspension, the shackle will rotate backwards. It should sit with the shackle swung backwards at an angle.

Here is the pictures. Rural you'll have to explain them. Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

Nice truck! Looks to have been really well taken care of. What plans do you have for it? What other Jeeps do you have?

Would that fit the rear of the MJ or do you have to modify?

As for the drivers side lean, yeah that's normal. With the fuel tank there and if you primarily drive alone, the springs will sag more on that side. The truck sitting higher in the rear is called rake. It's done that way from the factory so that when the bed is loaded down, it will sit level rather than sag. I'm not sure what, if any benefits would come from leveling it but it costs money to lift the front up. You mention lift, are you planning to lift the whole truck or were you talking about a small leveling lift for the front?

LOL I wondered if someone would say this. There's also videos that proves it works. I've personally seen a cylinder head before and after Seafoam and it worked, didn't remove everything, but damn close. It all depends on how bad the carbon is. If it is bad enough, no carbon remover will work and cleaning it by hand is the only way to get it off. It also depends on how you implement the carbon cleaner into the engine. Pouring into the gas tank is the least affective on the cylinders but the only way to clean injectors without removing them. Sucking the cleaner through the intake is the best way to clean the cylinders and valves but you must shut the engine off and let it heat soak for the best results.

Yeah I'm very confused. Lol pictures are a must.

Maybe an option to turn signatures on/off on mobile? Or some small text under the person's name to show a pop-up type thing with their information including the signature?

Some more progress has been made. I finally received all the paint for the truck. I got 12 cans of primer sealer, 12 cans of automotive primer, 12 cans of Deep Blue automotive paint, and 12 cans of automotive clear coat for a total of 48 cans. I'm hoping to get my prep work done throughout this week and paint it this weekend but we'll see how that works out. I also got a new transmission line to replace my bent and spliced line. I unfortunately ordered the return line to the trans (Dorman part 624-354), instead of the line from the trans to radiator like I needed. I still made it work by making my own bends and cutting the rubber hose to go to my new auxiliary transmission cooler. I ordered an auxiliary cooler kit from Amazon. There is a picture below. It fits really well on the truck. I mounted it as far to the drivers side it could go with the lines coming out behind the drivers headlight. I decided to set it up on the hot side before the radiator. So my fluid path goes from the trans to the aux cooler, then into the radiator, and back to the trans. I did this because I wanted to keep the trans fluid warm in the cold winter months and also take some of the load off the radiator when the fluids are really hot in the summer months. I've also been thinking about what I am doing for the rest of my dual battery setup. I have kind of decided that I want a pair of D34M Optima blue top batteries. As for the trays, I am waiting to hear back from Dirt Bound Offroad to see if their Optima battery trays will fit this model of battery since it isn't listed on their website. I have also gotten a quote for 5 33x10.5xr15 BFG AT KO2s, mounted and balanced, as well as an alignment for right at $1250. Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

I would like to see some improvements on the mobile side of things. Most notably showing signatures so us using the mobile website can see what vehicles users are talking about. I've also been very confused about there being a "Comanches" folder inside the "Comanche Club Forums" folder. Was there originally a plan to have sections for other Jeep models? This is most noticeable when using Tapatalk as you have to click "Comanche Club" click "forums" then click the "Comanches" folder to see the main forum page.

I'll have to check out BG44K myself. I've never heard of it. As for the Seafoam spray, I've only found it at Walmart but I recon Amazon has it. The parts stores don't seem to have it. It's just the regular formula of Seafoam but in aerosol form. It comes with a really long straw to feed into the intake tube. You can do the same thing by SLOWLY pouring the regular liquid Seafoam into the intake. I've also heard of people using a vacuum line from the intake stuck in the can so it sucks it out like a straw but I've got no experience with this method.

Your new springs are for the Cherokee. Cherokee springs are shorter and will show up under any search for Comanche springs. No parts store employee will know the difference. AFAIK the only companies that make stock MJ springs are General spring and Hell Creek Suspensions and are only obtained through them. I would return what you have and buy the proper springs before moving mounts. If you don't want to do that, take the main leaf from your old pack and strap it to the new pack. It will sit lower however since the Cherokee springs don't support the weight of the Comanche the same.

Grab yourself a can of Seafoam spray and a can of regular Seafoam. - Spray the whole can of spray through the intake with it at about 1500-2000 rpm. A coin under the throttle linkage works well. This takes about 5 mins and usually you won't see much smoke until 3/4 of the way through the can. When the can is about gone, flood the engine with the spray so it dies, or shut the key off quickly to allow it to hot soak in the cylinders for 30 mins. Afterwards, take it for a drive and drive it harder than you normally would to help break up any other loose carbon. - take off the intake tube and use a rag and nylon brush to clean the throttle plate. - pour the regular can of Seafoam into the gas tank at your next fill up. This will clean the fuel injectors and help clean any leftover carbon from before. Do all three of these and youre as good as you'll get without taking the head off the motor and cleaning by hand.

Are they the same ones from 97+? If so I know I have 1 extra for sure.

Use Tapatalk for posting pictures on mobile. As for regearing a Dana 35... It's a waste. It's a weak axle and as many will tell you, breaks just driving down the street. It will be cheaper to find a better axle to swap with the gearing you want. I myself swapped in a C8.25 from a 97 XJ. This is a cheap axle found everywhere and only requires welding on spring perches to stay spring under. Make sure you get a 95+ C8.25 as it has 29 splines and is comparable to the Dana 44 in strength. If you can get lucky, you can find a Dana 44 that came out of an MJ and swap that. (unlikely but I found one near me shortly after finishing my axle swap so you may get lucky). It sounds like a hard task swapping axles and welding new perches but this was my first time and it was easy and worked out great. I also wanted to mention that the lift will effect highway driving because there is more surface area, which creates more wind resistance. The beefier axles and better gearing will help with bigger tires but won't do much, if anything for the wind resistance issue.

You need to find where the other end is connected to be sure what it is. More than likely it is just a vent/return hose but you still want to be sure before leaving it hang.

Behind the interior panel on the passenger side there is a pretty good opening that wouldn't be too hard to get a plate into place. The drivers side has the extra bracketry for the spare tire and iirc something else as well. If you can build a plate to shimmy into the space, I don't see why you couldn't make it work! I really like the hammock idea and the more I think about it, the more useful this gets for an overlander type build. If you were to put a plate on the back side of the sheet metal, I'm really curious how much vertical weight it could take before causing damage. I'm 360 lbs so if I were to be in a hammock hanging on it, I wouldn't want to rip a whole in the Jeep and end up on my a$$. Lol

The skid I have is actually a factory MJ skid. It is shaped like a tub to fit around the entire tank. My plan is to cut one end and lay it flat to protect the entire length of the Dakota tank. I haven't even started with it yet so I can't really answer your question. Just from looking at my picture below, the left side will be to the rear of the truck and this is likely the side I'll cut and lay flat. The mounts will probably not reach the factory mounting holes so I'll just drill some holes and bolt it in. Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

Got some goodies yesterday and got them installed today. I got some sway bar links and the tools to install them. That went crappy since I didn't have a big enough socket to remove the pressed in bolts. I tried using a timing sprocket and a piece of metal to try to push it out with the C-clamps. I spent about an hour trying to get the bolts out and eventually realized the nuts I grabbed happened to be the right ones for the factory bolts.... I just threw those on and called it good. I also received my wiring kit from Meanlemons. He made me a regular XJ kit and a custom kit to run my dual battery setup as well as my second PDC. It's great quality and a very fair price. I don't have my second battery yet so I just hooked up the factory wiring and the second PDC for now. The last thing I did was installed the front driveshaft. I need to find different ubolt straps for the yoke because the set I have doesnt fit right. The side of the nuts lock up on the yoke before getting all the way seated. Anyone done the ubolt conversion on a Dana 30 yoke? What ubolts did you use? After finishing all the work, I walked out of the shed and noticed this... I think I'm developing a problem....

This is good to know, thanks.

Thanks! Yeah I do see that now that you pointed it out. Not sure of I want to run drop brackets or source longer arms. Ill have to do some more thinking on that.

Ebay is a good place to reference a price but I've found it USUALLY reflects it on the high side. Use it, but be cautious. When I was looking for a 5th Eliminator wheel for my spare, there was only one on ebay listed at like $200 shipped. I found mine on Craigslist for around $75 shipped. Also don't throw the word "rare" around. Everything is supposedly "rare" these days and if I see that in the for sale post of something, I usually click away. I'm sure many others do the same.

I'm definitely interested in MJ bed rail caps. Shipping those would probably be a nightmare however.

Small update. The oil leak is fixed and it currently doesnt leak anything! The bleeder screw also seems to have stopped leaking but I'll keep and eye on that. The driveshaft is now the proper length and installed for good. I still need to install the front shaft but I'll get to it this weekend probably. I found the source of my vibrations to be the exhaust hitting the crossmember. I jammed a piece of wood between the exhaust and body in front of the crossmember, then used my floor jack behind it to bend the exhaust just enough that it doesn't hit it. Eventually I'll weld the hanger on properly. My new wiring harness from Meanlemons should be here Saturday. Hopefully I'll have time to get that installed. It feels good now that I can just do the fun stuff to the truck rather than all the "necessary to be on the road" stuff.