cruiser54

I might have a handful of those linkage pieces in the shed.

Here's all you need to do: CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS RENIX OIL FILTER TO SAE FILTER JANUARY 3, 2016 CRUISER54 9 COMMENTS Tired of having a poor selection of oil filters for your Renix Jeep? Limited availabilty a pain for you? 20mm threads? We don’t need mumblemeter threads on our oil filters. Here’s a simple mod that allows you to use the very popular SAE threaded oil filters which are more readily available. The old standard 3/4″ SAE thread. You can purchase a new oil filter nipple from the dealer for under $10 and never be bothered again. Part number 53007563AB. It’s the one on the left. Or, grab one off a 91 and later XJ at the junkyard. Be forewarned though. You need a 7/8 wrench to remove a Renix nipple, but a 15/16 wrench for the later style. And just in case you need to replace your oil filter adapter o-rings, here’s a handy guide. Oil Filter Adapter O-Ring Sizes 87-90 Renix Model O-rings 0.799 x 0.103 AS568 size -117 1.296 x 0.139 AS568 size -219 2.484 x 0.139 AS568 size –230 Dealer Part Numbers for Renix. Sold individually: 33002970, 33002971, 33002972 Renix kit from Crown Automotive-33002970K 91-01 HO Model Orings 0.676 x 0.070 AS568 size -017 0.859 x 0.139 AS568 size -212 2.484 x 0.139 AS568 size -230

Agreed. Of the 13 Comanches I had as demos at the dealership, I personally ordered about 10 of them. 3.07 with auto was never an option.

Loosening up track bars was such an issue when these platforms were new, that during Pre-Delivery Inspection, we tightened the bolts trackbar bracket to frame.

I believe so. Nice upgrade for an MJ BTW.

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS HO INTO RENIX SWAP OCTOBER 31, 2015 SALAD 65 COMMENTS This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe. And generally Pooh-poohed by those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block. XJ Cherokee and ZJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange. 2000+ TJ Wrangler and WJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange. YJ and 1997-1999 4.0L TJ blocks will interchange in XJ/ZJ XJ/ZJ blocks, and the 2000+ TJ/WJ blocks do not interchange without significant modifications. TJ/WJ 4.0L Engine blocks underwent clean sheet design changes effective in the 1999 WJ Grand and 2000 TJ Wrangler. These blocks are not interchangeable with XJ/ZJ engine blocks. The reason is motor mount bolt holes and belt driven accessory mounting bolt holes are in different locations, or not present at all, TJ/WJ vs. XJ/ZJ. Now that we know which engines we can use, let’s get down to business. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from an HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head at the rear for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use a new Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. An alternative on exhaust manifolds: As far as exhaust, you can use the Renix exhaust manifold and be fine. If you want to use the HO exhaust manifold, you must go with an HO headpipe and screw your O2 sensor into that headpipe. Standard Renix harness is plenty long to do so. A bung can be welded into the HO manifold to accept the EGR tube. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO design. See Tips #12 – Setting Your 4.0 to #1 TDC and #13 – Distributor Indexing to be sure you get the distributor installed correctly. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. XJ: “Regular” (not Grand) Cherokees ’84-’01 ZJ: Grand Cherokee ’93-’98 (Gen1) WJ: Grand Cherokee ’99-’04 (Gen2) YJ: Wrangler ’87-’95 (Gen1) TJ: Wrangler ’97-’06 (Gen2) 10-26-16

The dash switch will not affect it starting in a higher gear. I'd find a used TCE from an 88 to 90 and plug it in.

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS IMPROVING BLOWER MOTOR PERFORMANCE NOVEMBER 28, 2015 CRUISER54 26 COMMENTS On 1984 to 1990 MJs and XJs, the blower motor’s factory grounding point is on the driver side inner fender under the sheet metal screw. This ground is shared with windshield wipers, front windshield washers, rear windshield washers, AC clutch relay, fan control relay, fog lamps, fan motor, headlamps, front turn signals, front side markers, and park lamps. So your blower motor has its ground point 10 feet away from where it is located!! What we’re going to do is leave that ground intact and also ground the blower motor on the passenger side inner fender much closer to the blower motor itself. This will also benefit the other components on the factory ground circuit. Take this opportunity to refresh the factory ground as a matter of course. Remove the screw, scrape the surface to bare metal and reinstall the screw securely. Here’s what I do to get the ground much closer to the blower motor and add another ground point to this overloaded ground circuit. Find the blower motor connector on the passenger side. Red and Black two wire connector. Find a location where the black wire can be made to reach the passenger side inner fender, and cut the wire. You may have to do some rerouting of the harness to achieve this. Take both cut pieces of wire and put them together into a yellow eyelet and crimp. Fasten the eyelet to a place on the passenger side inner fender with a sheet metal screw after applying OxGard to the contact surfaces. Be sure to scrape the attaching point on the fender to bare metal first. Your blower motor will now turn faster and last longer, and the other electrical components on the circuit will benefit from a better ground path.

TCU could be bad. ever completed Tip 10 on my website? tip 1?

Depends. Poke your noggin under the passenger side dash and move the Heat/Cold back and forth. Should be obvious.

So now we're getting somewhere. I'm gonna bet the blend door under the passenger dash is out of adjustment, allowing cool air to mix with the hot air.

I have had catastrophic failures of HCVs. Likely one of the reasons for my hate of them. When they split apart driving down the road, MASSIVE coolant loss that could lead to engine damage. Not worth it.... Here's my favorite. Gonna do an oil change on my wife's xJ. Good and warm!! as I'm removing the oil filter, my arm touches the heater hose or HCV and it explodes!! Covers my left arm and my face with 208* coolant!! That's with a factory valve. I'm sure the available replacement valves are worse.....

If there is no obstruction in the heater core, the temps of each hose should be rather close when checking near the firewall. Likewise on both sides of the HCV. Let's get this info before proceeding any further.

I can't imagine the heater core is that dirty and it would happen that fast. Hold your hand on each of the heater hoses at the firewall. Same temp? either side of the HCV. How do they compare? If you have an IR gun, use that. But, your hands will likely tell the story.

Yup. 90* day. AC vent temp at 42*.........

There is a door in the plenum that controls the temp of the air. Air goes by the heater core or the evaporator. Believe the guy from Arizona. No worries eliminating that piece of crap.

Keeping the heater control valve does NOT optimize the AC output. All they do is restrict flow, and then explode sometime in the future.

LOL. Glad it is fixed. I have had issues with new clutches not releasing because the disc is a skosh too thick. There's a fix for that also. Ya know, you guys with clutches should pull that gunky fluid from the clutch master with a turkey baster, wipe what you can out of the reservoir with a lint free rag, add new fresh fluid and bleed the system once in a while. Do this after Christmas each year so the taste of brake fluid will be gone from the baster before next Thanksgiving.

Okay. Good.

Okay. Now we're getting somewhere. It's not mushy? Feels like it did before? solid? I'm really not sending you to the submarine races. Honest.

So, how far must you push the pedal down with your hand before you feel resistance?

Try this. Pump the clutch pedal to the floor about 50 times. Walk away, if you can, for 20 minutes. Come back and see how it feels. The clutch pedal. Not your leg. Report back.

I've never bled an oil pressure line.....

I know you changed the oil filter, but which brand are you using?

weld it. Add a flex joint into the exhaust.