cruiser54

Get heater hoses from a 97 and later XJ.

Have you upgraded your cables?

You have been given excellent advice in your other thread. Get after it.

9/16" actually. You must complete Tips 1 through 5 after that.

And THIS for the instrument panel lights: CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS IMPROVING THE INSTRUMENT PANEL GROUND NOVEMBER 17, 2015 SALAD 22 COMMENTS The ground point for the complete instrument cluster on your XJ or MJ is located up under the driver’s side dash. If you lay on your back and look up under there with a flashlight, without wearing a hat, you will see a black wire attached to a shiny piece of metal almost directly above the hood release knob. The screw will have either a ¼” or 5/16″ head on it. This ground point is responsible for handling the ground circuit for the following items: Dome lamps, seat belt and key warnings, transmission power/comfort switch, wiper switch, headlamp switch and delay module, fog lamp switch, cargo lamp switch, all instrument panel grounds and illumination, power windows and door locks, cruise control dump valve, and a few more things. The problem is that where the ground point is located does not share good contact with the chassis where the ground should be. The solution is simple: Make up a jumper wire with #10 gauge wire about 10″ long. On one end, crimp on a ¼” round wire terminal. On the other end, crimp on a 3/8″ round wire terminal. Remove the screw from the existing ground wire and attach the small terminal of your jumper so that the original wire and your new jumper share the same attaching point, one over the other. Look above the driver’s side plastic kick panel just forward of the top of the hood release knob. You will see an 8mm stud there. Attach the large terminal end there with a washer and nut over it tightened securely. Use a coating of OxGard at all ground contact surfaces when attaching the screw and nut. **Special note for Comanche owners: Make your jumper wire 12″ long and attach it on the driver’s side kick panel close to the fusebox on the 8mm stud.** Post navigation PREVIOUS POST

And let's also remind everyone to install a supplemental harness for the headlights!!!!! CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS HEADLIGHT HARNESS UPGRADE NOVEMBER 17, 2015 SALAD 63 COMMENTS It’s easy to install a supplemental headlight harness. From the factory, the voltage to the headlight bulbs travels from the battery, through connectors, inside the cabin, to the headlamp switch, and then back out to the lamps via undersized wire and more connectors. It’s not uncommon to find only 10.5 volts at the lamps. The supplemental harness is installed so that it provides battery voltage to the lamps and is just triggered by the factory wiring. The result is about 35% brighter headlamps and headlight switches that don’t melt and burn out. Here’s a link to a harness on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERAMIC-H4-HEADLIGHT-RELAY-WIRING-HARNESS-2-HEADLAMP-LIGHT-BULB-SOCKET-PLUGS-7-/330997592807 Absolutely plug and play: Remove grille and headlamp bulbs. I fed my harnesses from the passenger side starting between the battery and the back of the headlamp housing, over to the driver side. Plug the driver side bulb into the new harness. Attach the new harness’s ground wire under one of the small bolts on the radiator support after scraping the paint off under it. Attach the harness to the existing harness behind the grille working toward the passenger side. Plug the new harness plug into passenger headlamp. Plug original headlamp plug into receptacle on new harness. Attach the ground for the passenger side just like you did the driver side under a radiator support bolt. Attach relays with provided bracket on the passenger side inner fender. Connect power wires to battery.

I bought the $14 one right away.

062 was the other number!! I missed it by 1!! I can't remember the actual difference. IIRC 066 was for auto trans and 062 for manual trans. Just had to be something simple like length. https://duckduckgo.com/?q=83100062&atb=v191-1&ia=web

You hung in there!! Congratulations.

Good idea. A guy might learn something along the way also.......

THE HISTORY OF THE 4.0 BEST INJECTORS FOR RENIX AUGUST 6, 2016 CRUISER54 128 COMMENTS The original Renix injectors made by Siemens-Deka were only “one holers”. That means the fuel was discharged through only one hole. Not the most efficient design by today’s standards. Modern injectors have at least 4 spray holes for better fuel atomization. Another issue is the original injectors were prone to leaking fuel at a seam and spraying gas all over hot manifolds. Not good!! A nice upgrade is to use Volvo injectors. The use of these injectors was pioneered by Programbo from Cherokee Forum when he suggested them to DFlintstone there. Flintstone was the guinea pig and reported excellent results. I have experienced the same results as have many others. The 746s, as they’re called, have the 4 hole design and the complete Bosch part number is 0 280 155 746. These injectors can be purchased refurbished for not much money and are a direct bolt-in. WARNING: AVOID THE CHICOM KNOCKOFF INJECTORS!!! BUY ORIGINAL BOSCH/VOLVO REFURBISHED INJECTORS HERE IN THE USA. Trevor.skankfootracing@gmail.com

On my website, in the introduction, is a list of my Tips that apply to the HOs. Also, you can view some replacement harness smoke below.

FYI, IIRC 83100063 is also a CPS patch harness. and they may well be interchangeable with the 066.

Reading doesn't do any good. You must complete them. Leap of faith is all you need. Please do them before throwing any more time and money at your Jeep. Need a meter tutorial? I have one somewhere that I could link you to.

THIS^^^^^

Have you completed Tips 1,3,4, and 5 on my website?

Sam, have you ever visited my website and completed Tips 1 through 5?

The little plate goes on AFTER the flexplate. Torque converter side.

I'd put the brakes on and do some poking around first. Here's why. CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS REAR MAIN SEAL DIAGNOSIS OCTOBER 31, 2015 SALAD 3 COMMENTS EDIT I’d be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF. Everybody, who doesn’t own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it? A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don’t jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat. Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons: First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber’s adage apply here: “Crap flows downhill”. Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first. A little tip here. Rather than use a dizzy gasket, use an o ring instead. NAPA #727-2024. Tips 12 and 13 will help you get your distributor back in place correctly.

I'm not comfortable with your TV cable adjustment. With the gas pedal fully depressed, see if there is any slack in that cable.

Yes and yes.

I've used this also from Tractor Supply. $17.99 for 2.5 gallons!!! https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-premium-all-fleet-diesel-engine-oil

And that Rotella melts away the sludge that mighta built up before you got your Jeep.

Same here!! Lawnmower, go cart and quad also. I keep one oil filter for all 4 cars. Wix 1085. fits GC, MJ, and 2 Alfa Romeos.

Don't throw any more parts at it just yet. Try this, and it ties into what 87MJTIM is referring to. http://cruiser54.com/?p=98