cruiser54

Intake manifold to head. The factory torque spec was too low.

My Alfas have that also.

You know, I got rid of a ton of wind noise by just fastening that earliest version down in the middle of the areas between the factory fastener locations. I used some factory low profile trim screws to do it.

I don't.

It's 3 designs. I knew of the flimsy early one, then the more rigid one. I did NOT know of the one that fits on the metal rail.

So that's the 3rd design I guess. There was the flimsy angled one on early models. Then the more rigid replacement. then this. ??

The A pillar seal. The long one. It is much more rigid than the flimsy early one. Not sure when they changed to the improved one. Reduces wind noise. Not sure how to adapt it or if it needs adapting. The little seal at the bottom of the A pillar seal is NLA for sure. BUT, I bet you could make one or grab one at the wrecking yard. It's like a black foam material and is glued on.

That's not the straight one attached to the A pillar though.

The A pillar seals are stiffer and don't warp. some had this added, which in NLA.

Make sure the intake manifold bolts aren't loose.

Use the more robust later model versions?

Burned brown wire at ignition switch. Switch likely toast.

Go to www.cruiser54.com and complete Tips 1,3,4, and 5 first. Tip 10 would be a good one to do also.

Any idea what year this Comanche is? Engine and trans? Is the starter covered in oil by chance? Ya know, working on vehicles you many times have to make sure what ISN"T the problem before you find out what IS. Look at those things as maintenance.

15 minute job.

Hey, If me and Pete can do it, it's gotta be easy. And no, 4wd will not be engaged all the time.

This^^

Have you performed any of the Tips at www.cruiser54.com? The braided ground wire at the firewall can cause all sorts of issues if it isn't in tip top shape. did you get the job?

Why not leave the fuel pressure tester hooked up on your rides and monitor the fuel pressure? It's common that the internal fuel hose to the pump deteriorates and causes all sorts of fuel supply issues.

How long have you cranked it over since the injector replacement? Should start up after a few tries.

It will fail you sooner or later. do the CAD bypass.

Bring A Trailer will yield the best money for the least cost to you.

Oh, okay. 130,000 miles? That's nothing. They all had header cracking issues. Not just Renix. LOL Sure it's your rear main seal? I bet it's not!! See below. CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS REAR MAIN SEAL DIAGNOSIS OCTOBER 31, 2015 SALAD 3 COMMENTS I’d be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF. Everybody, who doesn’t own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it? A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don’t jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat. Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons: First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber’s adage apply here: “Crap flows downhill”. Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first. A little tip here. Rather than use a dizzy gasket, use an o ring instead. NAPA #727-2024. Tips 12 and 13 will help you get your distributor back in place correctly.

Just put the engine in as outlined. Nothing wrong with Renix. Its ECU will work just fine. If you want some more power, swap in a 1990 Renix ECU.