cruiser54

On at least 3 Jeeps I have converted to 134a by installing the 134a adapter fittings, using the stock expansion valve, PAG oil which I'd have to get the number of, evacuating and recharging the system. That's it. This was done under the supervision of a long time auto/refrigeration mechanic who has done the same on customer cars for years. Works just fine.....and I live in Arizona...

Is that a DENTED Fram oil filter on there? Fram sucks!!!

Probably from me. I used the Gold and Blue Motul fluid alternately on my supercharged Miata during track days.

Do the braided lines also!! I got my valve from Summit Racing. When the distro valve is removed, there are larger orifices for the fluid to flow through.

If you just wanna eliminate the EGR, remove the tube, plug the exhaust manifold and intake manifold. Block off the EGR with a plate. Kind of a PITA.

From Tip 17 An alternative on exhaust manifolds: As far as exhaust, you can use the Renix exhaust manifold and be fine. If you want to use the HO exhaust manifold, you must go with an HO headpipe and screw your O2 sensor into that headpipe. Standard Renix harness is plenty long to do so. A bung can be welded into the HO manifold to accept the EGR tube. As if you'd want to.....

I just eliminate all that crap and install an adjustable prop valve for the rear circuit. Brakes work way better.

No. But you can swap the arm and they work fine.

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS REAR MAIN SEAL DIAGNOSIS OCTOBER 31, 2015 SALAD 3 COMMENTS I’d be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF. Everybody, who doesn’t own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it? A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don’t jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat. Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons: First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber’s adage apply here: “Crap flows downhill”. Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first. A little tip here. Rather than use a dizzy gasket, use an o ring instead. NAPA #727-2024. Tips 12 and 13 will help you get your distributor back in place correctly.

Parts these days................

Hey Frank, have you verified yourself that it's indeed the rear main seal leaking? Might wanna read this. REAR MAIN SEAL DIAGNOSIS OCTOBER 31, 2015 SALAD 3 COMMENTS I’d be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF. Everybody, who doesn’t own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it? A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don’t jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat. Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons: First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber’s adage apply here: “Crap flows downhill”. Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first. A little tip here. Rather than use a dizzy gasket, use an o ring instead. NAPA #727-2024. Tips 12 and 13 will help you get your distributor back in place correctly.

spray the belt with some water and see what happens to the noise.

LOOK at the balancer.

Unplug and clean the connector on the CTS. Also make sure the harness to the CTS and O2 sensor are routed correctly and not shorting out.

The system works fine. ALWAYS spray the adjusting bolt with some lube BEFORE attempting to move it.

Clean out the mechanism.

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS IMPROVING THE FUEL PUMP GROUND JANUARY 3, 2016 CRUISER54 54 COMMENTS The fuel pump and fuel tank sending unit ground at a sheet metal screw up behind the spare tire on an XJ, and behind the driver’s taillamp on an MJ. Not only is a sheet metal screw a lousy way to ground things, this ground path is long and travels through some connectors that are prone to corrosion and moisture. Locate the black wire on the HARNESS side of the fuel pump/sender 3 wire connector. Remove a 6″ length of the split loom covering. Strip back about 1/2″ of insulation from the BLACK wire. Take your new ground wire, preferably at least 14 gauge and 12 to 18 inches long as needed, strip it about 3/4″, and wrap it around the exposed part of the harness plug wire.Solder the connection. Tape it up and reinstall the split loom covering. At the other end of your new ground wire, add a crimp on eyelet. Attach the eyelet under a bolt that goes directly into the chassis. Be sure to clean the attaching point til shiny and apply OxGard to the contact surfaces.

Things like fuel leaks are not to be taken lightly. I'd only drive it straight to the shop and not tempt fate.

"look into"?

Had a 4.0 crack between the freeze plugs on the driver's side. But I'm so confused about Monte Carlos and Jeeps right now. I DO know the Jeep needs a new fuel filter though. So, time to replace the fuel filter!! That's a maintenance item. every 30,000 miles along with the tune-up. Grab a foot of 5/16" high pressure fuel hose and a foot of 3/8" high pressure fuel hose (also known as fuel injection hose) and 4 clamps from the parts store beforehand. That way you will have some spare clamps and spare fuel hose for the future.

Might as well do it all!!

You might hear some squeaky noises behind you after dinner.

I wish someone had mentioned belt tension earlier on.

Tighten the belt.

Tighten the belt.