cruiser54

Redwolf: Just tighten the living $#!& out of the bolts that hold the trackbar bracket to the frame rail. Pull as hard as you can. Squirt some Panther Piss type stuff on the threads first. Easy.

Click on the link in my signature and do the complete ground refreshing and connector refreshing before spending any more on parts that may not be needed. Don't skip any steps and be thorough.

Yes, an in-frame overhaul can be done. The Renix blocks were high nickel content and wore the best. I've never seen a 4.0 block cracked as described above. The fact is the girdle was ADDED to the same old block in order to reduce NVH, not strengthen the block due to lightening. Using the later model main bearing bolts/studs, you too can add the girdle to any 4.0. Anyway, it's all doable.

You need to do that. Got air tools? Those bolts were not tight enough from the factory. The popping noise started cropping up on customer's new rigs. It was so bad that we adopted a policy of tightening those fasteners during the Pre-delivery inspection. This is definitely a stone I wouldn't leave unturned.

Best thing to do is see if you can duplicate the symptom sitting still and see-sawing the wheel back and forth. If you can have someone do that while you have a gander underneath, that would be the best. Refresh my memory here. Did you actually put a wrench/socket on the trackbar bracket to framerail bolts?

No blood? Torn skin?

The issue wasn't with the general membership or respect from them, just to be clear.

I'm sorry that I cannot elaborate as to what really happened as it was discussed in private. It's not as it seems to you at all. Nuff said.

Yes it is. If you click on the link in my signature, you should find a post and hopefully it has a photo of the proper wire harness routing along with a mod for increasing the sensor's output, and proper testing procedures. . It's not fun to replace. 11mm bolt heads.

The vacuum lines at the intake manifold, below the throttle body could be the source of your vacuum leaks. Very common. Spraying for them with throttle body cleaner is a good idea. As suggested by gogmorgo, I would just replace them if you've never done so. You should also make sure your intake manifold bolts are snug while you're in the diagnostic mode.

About what?

I MIGHT come back. The vacation has been good. These are the conditions for my return: 'll come back, conditionally. Nobody messes with my posts. No deleting, modifying, editing, or any way correcting for supposed political correctness, perceived or real. Any concerns, contact me directly. I reserve the right to question the integrity of anyone's post for accuracy and intent regardless of their professed mental issues . If those folks get butt-hurt, so be it. We're here to help others, not inflate our egos.

I'll leave you guys with these links for your Renix stuff. I no longer have the time or proper attitude to sort through all the thread derailment, pontificating, and lack of practical problem solving that CC used to have. It's no fun anymore. I dread clicking on the CC link in my favorites as a matter of fact, knowing I will be disappointed. http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips/ http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/cruiser54s-mostly-renix-tips-153657/ http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f140/cruisers-mostly-renix-tips-1304879/

Yeah, but our Jeeps aren't Pontiacs.....

You could pull them and clean them. Check the gap. Replace? Nah.

That's for a 91 and later. Get one for an auto trans as suggested, 87 to 90.

Could be as simple as a bent pushrod. Only one way to find out. Take apart the "weak" whatever it is .

I like this method.^^

I don't wanna hear any whiney stories. I just wanted you to post the pic for me!! LOL.

New cars don't need a "break-in" on their axles......

Here's a simple and permanent fix for that troublesome system. http://comancheclub.com/topic/17377-cad-fix-1/

Did I send you the CPS wiring photo? If so, post it up please.

Use good oil filters like Wix or Napa Gold. Before Seafoaming it, shine a light into the oil filler hole and assess the sludge buildup.

So far the waters haven't been muddied. We should all be thankful for that!!!

Yes. 4000 seems awfully high for a TPS issue though. You "disassembled" the throttle body? Maybe this will help. Perhaps something didn't go back together properly. Use this for verification purposes. Cruiser’s Renix Throttle Body Butterfly Adjustment Okay. Let's start from scratch. First off, that's not an idle adjustment screw. It's a throttle butterfly stop screw. It's purpose is to allow the butterfly to be as close to completely closed as it can be without binding or wearing into the throttle body. It was never intended to be adjusted in the field. But, Uncle Bob didn’t know that, did he? Engine off. Back off the butterfly stop screw with a 3/32” allen wrench until the butterfly is completely closed. Now. turn the screw in until the FAINTEST movement of the butterfly opening is detected. This can be done more easily with the throttle body removed. If you remove the throttle body, be sure to replace the gasket underneath it after thoroughly cleaning the old one off. Revised 07/07/2012