cruiser54

Nice!!!

True,eh?

My head hurts from reading that. From a teacher -- short and to the point In the world of hi-tech gadgetry, I've noticed that more and more people who send text messages and emails have long forgotten the art of capital letters. For those of you who fall into this category, please take note of the following statement: "Capitalization is the difference between helping your Uncle Jack off a horse and helping your uncle jack off a horse." Is everybody clear on that?

That was my guess. I've got a coupla sets that are in good condition, not great, but I'm in Arizona. $75 each may be about right.

Wow!! Where's WNC?

You do know that all 3 of those sensors share the same ground, right? IAT can be removed and cleaned. Try this test. Cruiser’s Renix Sensor Ground Test This sensor ground circuit affects the CTS, TPS, IAT, MAP, ECU and diagnostic connector grounds. It’s very important and not something to overlook in diagnosing your Renix Jeep as it is common for the harnesses to have poor crimps causing poor grounds. If any or all of the sensors do not have a good ground, the signal the ECU receives from these sensors is inaccurate. Set your meter to measure Ohms. Be sure the key is in the OFF position. Using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS . The letters are embossed on the connector itself. Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it runs parallel to the valve cover and also near the MAP sensor mounted on the firewall. If you have an 87 or 88 with the C101 connector mounted on the firewall above the brake booster, wiggle it, too. You want to see as close to 0 ohms of resistance as possible. And when wiggling the harnesses/connectors the resistance value should stay low. If there is a variance in the values when wiggling the wires, you have a poor crimp/connection in the wiring harness or a poor ground at the engine dipstick tube stud. On 87 and 88 models, you could have a poor connection at the C101 connector as well. Revised 06/12/2012

Do the CAD delete yourself and don't go back to that mechanic.

And it's testable. Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8” from the stock 5/16”, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts. Revised 01-26-2013

What's "incredibly expensive"? What state are you in?

Junkyard.

If you get door weatherstripping from a 97 and later 4 door, it seals better than the earlier stuff....

Yes, and yes.

It was an unpublished factory "fix" in the early years for the oil in the air filter problem. The flutes stuck down too far by design and sucked oil in a liquid form into the air filter. That system was supposed to only move vapor. there is no down side to doing the mod.

Determine if the noise is from the EGR itself or the transducer. The EGR pintle should NOT be moving at idle. A faulty EGR solenoid could be allowing some vacuum to be applied to EGR at idle..... Unplug the vacuum line at the eGR and see if there's vacuum present at idle and report back.

CCV system must be working perfectly. Grommets, hoses, piping, fittings must all be in good shape and CLEAR. That said, your vintage of Jeep was particularly prone to oiling the air filter even when new. Click on the link in my signature for a complete write-up on how to address it. Post 25 has photos also. Here's a preview of the text. Cruiser’s Valve Cover Mod Most early and even later Renix 4.0s could be bothered by excessive oil in the air cleaner box. A fix from my old days as Service Manager at a Jeep dealership follows. Information was provided to me from a buddy at JeepTech during those days. I don’t believe it ever came out in a Technical Service Bulletin. Remove the valve cover and turn it over. Next, remove the fluted tubes that are now facing you by removing three screws on each. Chop 1 inch off each of them. Then, about a half inch up from the area where you just sawed them off, drill a half inch hole in the tubes so the holes will face the rear of the valve cover. Clean and de-burr/sand all rough edges nicely, clean with solvent, and reinstall. Don’t be concerned about the chintzy gaskets that will probably crumble into oblivion when you remove the fluted tubes. They can go back together without gaskets.

When it gets hot and rears it's ugly head, be ready with a meter and check the CPS output.

Airtex pump? Have you tried bypassing the fuel pump ballast resistor in case it's getting hot after driving?

I'm not thinking it's the regulator. I'm thinking the pump is getting hot and failing.

What's your fuel pressure reading at idle, both with the vacuum line connected to the fuel pressure regulator and with it unplugged?

Great news. FWIW, I would do the following and eliminate all that axle disconnect stuff. Here's why. The big issue is that the CAD system only fails when you need it the most. Kinda like when you don't realize your wiper blades need replacing til it rains.... I know somebody’s system works and he advocates keeping it stock, but my exposure to the failures is probably hundreds of times greater than his, as a result of being Service Manager at a Jeep dealership from 1980 through 1992, and being a current XJ and MJ owner. CAD stinks. Every Jeep I work on with it, I eliminate it. Guess what I find in the process? 25 year old busted vac lines, bloated vac line connectors, bad vac reservoirs and piping. In other words, had the person gotten into a sticky situation and needed 4WD, they would have been screwed!!! That's the tip of the iceberg. The factory went through 3 revisions of the shift fork also. The fork issue is non-existent if you just slide it over and leave it. http://comancheclub.com/topic/17377-cad-fix-1/ ,

#1 The blue line is the vent for the front axle disconnect system and it hooks to nothing. #2 is the connector for the windshield washer bottle level sensor. #3 is the connector for the underhood light.

No answers after my tips? Are you kidding me? Check with some of the folks on these forums. Why do I get "thank you" PMs almost daily because I stuck with them? I'm not positive? I'm positive I don't want folks taking poor advice and spending their time and money chasing down yours, or anyone else's rabbit trail. I don't help people? Your "outside the box" thinking is extremely distracting not only to the folks seeking help, but to those of us who have to go back in and straighten things out after you've "shotgunned" multiple posts with mostly nonsense. I'm thinking "out of the box" is just another excuse for irresponsible posting. If you call this "taking care not shooting from the hip", you're saying 2 things. One is that you have been shooting from the hip until recently. Since when? When I called you on it? And two, what if I hadn't done that? Would it have continued? I made a noted effort to say in my previous posts that not ALL of your info or advice was bad. Go re-read that. Now you're the victim....... I care about these people. I don't want them to waste time and money, and I don't wanna waste my time or anyone else's cleaning up after your "out of the box" suggestions. You've admitted that you were "kidding" when I challenged you, or that you had some other issue like dyslexia or the like and sometimes got stuff backwards. Holy crap, man. How is that my fault? If you truly have issues regarding dyslexia or other maladies, please try using some extra effort before posting. Who is leaving because I challenged you? Anyone out there? Post up. I wanna know. Are you thinking I am paid for what I do, and you're not? ....Sheesh.

Whatever. Are we getting ready for another shotgun blast of caryuck posts into a ton of threads giving half assed advice?

No cruise? Look under the hood of most any Ford or Chevy and you'll see them. Mine looks like a big soup can and came off a Ford.

I know the feeling. I leave it unplugged for the most part.