cruiser54

Absolutely. 99 to 2004 Grand Cherokee booster/master combos are plentiful in the junkyards. Be sure to get the brake lines coming out of the master cylinder with it.

No I didn't. Douching is for girls, not guys working on Jeeps!! Avoid it at all costs.

Douching is for girls. Test the solenoids if needed after refreshing the trans connectors.

Just match port the Renix intake manifold to the HO head using the Renix gasket. If you want a bigger throttle body, even bigger than the HO's, www.strokedjeep.com. Here's a write-up on the swap. I have photos of the simple porting... Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. Revised 03/28/13

It's an assembly. You screw the dealy-bob on the right into the block, and then attach that thing-a-ma-jig on the left to it.

Click on my link below and see Tip 22.

Sender is at the back of the head. Sensor is down on the driver's side of the block.

Click on my link below. Tip 22. Includes a diagram and part numbers from different suppliers.

87 to 90 to be safe and sure.

www.kelleyswip.com

You need to come to my town and get one. http://adventuretrailers.com/trailers/

Click on the link in my signature and perform the procedure outlined in Tip 10.

I double checked mine yesterday and saw 7.2 ohms!! All the resistance was right at the dipstick tube stud on my 90.

I'm calling the Red cluster Black based on the background color.... Back to business. Hornbrod has updated Tip 22 to address the OP's original issue of vacuum hose routing.

Red?

Some guys have just re-used the rubber fittings at each end of the MAP to TB hose on a piece of metal brake line bent to fit.......

Yes. Made by the same folks as factory. Even advances the ignitoin timing a bit. Also, be sure the cPS harness is routed properly!!!!! Clips in 2 places to keep it off the hot exhaust.

Click on the link to my Tips in my signature. Go to Tip 22. Hornbrod's gonna add another photo to that Tip which shows a vacuum diagram. 87 was blue in the base model's cluster?

IIRC 38 A gauge could be off that much I imagine.

That's a little low. What was it when you pulled the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator?

Its driving a lot better after eliminating the c101, it did its slight back fire once didn't die. The lights dimming is fixed. I feel like iv lost a lot of power and like my engine is trying to hard. Let's regroup here. Have you tested the fuel pressure?

So it's all good now?

Just bypass it. It's only there to reduce fuel pump noise.